If I upgrade my cams to BuddyClub spec III and also some uprated springs and ITR retainers would I be able to set my rev limit to 9000rpm without risking harm to engine, whats the bottom end going to feel like reving that high?

 

I'd change the valves too. But also I never saw the point on reving that high on a daily driven car unless you had plan for the track.

 

I drive about 35 miles a day and I run to redline almost every gear, I like spirited driving.

My problem is I hit the limiter a couple of times each week but normally just as I change gear so you can't feel it just hear it, hence shifting the red line would mean I could still change cloes to 8500 without the limit kicking in.

What are stock valves generally capable of, 8800 or 8600?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EdLeake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I upgrade my cams to BuddyClub spec III and also some uprated springs and ITR retainers would I be able to set my rev limit to 9000rpm without risking harm to engine, whats the bottom end going to feel like reving that high?</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's no need to "upgrade" to ITR retainers, because they're the same ones you already have. With the proper valvetrain, the B16A won't mind spinning to 9,000 RPM.

 

i dont think any motor is going to enjoy spinning to redline at every gear, eventually its going to give

 

Proper valvetrain WOULD include uprated valves right?

 

Very young car m8, 2000 model, 30k miles, oils changed regularly and it all seems fine.

I don't literally thrash her all day long but she does get taken through her paces everyday!

 

I don't know were stock b16 valves sit. You hear so many stories. I have a b18c5 with a JUN head. I would upgrade to ITR valve at least. You could find those at a good price. If you have the money to spend, Toda and Skunk are easy to find and work pretty well. I personally like JUN, but it's hard to get and hard to find.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EdLeake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Proper valvetrain WOULD include uprated valves right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The stock valves will be fine. Upgrade the springs and make sure your retainers are in good condition, and you shouldn't have any problems. As others have said, spending a lot of time at 9,000 RPM isn't going to do wonders for the engine, but setting the rev limiter there won't be an issue.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16Civic93 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont think any motor is going to enjoy spinning to redline at every gear, eventually its going to give</TD></TR></TABLE>

^^ All you're really going to do is create more wear and tear on the motor, causing it to break down more frequently.

Leave the redline at 8000. I don't see how you bounce off the rev limiter all the time. By the end of third you're doing almost 80 mph. Do you constantly peg the rev limiter in 3rd??

I've hit my limiter TWICE in the year and 1 month I've had the car. Perhaps you should settle down and not drive like you do anymore?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by revolution8k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Perhaps you should settle down and not drive like you do anymore? </TD></TR></TABLE>
or just learn to drive

RPM= Ruins Peoples Motors

 

Rev limiters are there to SAVE engines. It is placed there because that is determined to be the highest point you should rev to.(for stock applications)

Raising the rev limiter requires upgraded valvespring strength and tension, as well as making sure the bottomend can handle it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EdLeake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I drive about 35 miles a day and I run to redline almost every gear, I like spirited driving.

My problem is I hit the limiter a couple of times each week but normally just as I change gear so you can't feel it just hear it, hence shifting the red line would mean I could still change cloes to 8500 without the limit kicking in.

What are stock valves generally capable of, 8800 or 8600?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

reguardless, its gonna sound pretty sik!

 

Comments about me not being able to drive are dumbfounded, I'm a member of the advance drivers institute, have been driving years and have done numerous track days. I've done forumla ford, I've done karting I've done a lot of racing/driving in my time.

Learn to drive my ****!

I asked for some tech help not e-thuggery.

 

+ 1 post ?

Whats this all about -

Don't like the idea, explaining why might help m8!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Del Sizzle &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a b18c5 with a JUN head. I would upgrade to ITR valve at least.</TD></TR></TABLE>

B18c5? Where do all you people get your USDM ITR motors?

 

upgrade the valvetrain... springs, retainers, valves and ecu

 

Can your valvetrain handle 9k with the proper set-up?
Yes.
Will a stock B16A2 roll up to 9k without being built?
Yes.
Will your car last if you beat the **** out of it in every gear, every day?
No.



EDIT: On a more technical note, you're going to need some pretty diesel springs and retainers to handle stage 3 cams. ITR Retainers wont cut it. And do A LOT of research before you start buying ****...different valve springs have different rates, if you get the wrong ones for your cams, the harmonics wont match and you're cams will snap. And also, is this car daily driven? Stage 3 cams are not made for daily driving, they are made for the track. To be able to run them, you're going to need programable engine management (AEM EMS, HONDATA, ect), and lots of dyno time. Even after this, you're idle will be high and eradic, gas milage will be *****, and a couple more disadvantages. Do some research, SEARCH is your friend, kid

 

there should be no reason to rev that high because you dont have power that high, first off its not great to rev your car that high daily r.p.m. = ruins peoples motors!! the only reason you havent had problems is because you do change oil regularly and your r/s ratio is close to perfect. i have an all motor b16 with every toda part made and they (the R&D people) advised me not to rev past 8500. trust me dont move your rev limit it is detrimental to your motor. hope the advise is helpful, would hate for you to ruin your everyday driver.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lax1185 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

EDIT: On a more technical note, you're going to need some pretty diesel springs and retainers to handle stage 3 cams. ITR Retainers wont cut it. And do A LOT of research before you start buying ****...different valve springs have different rates, if you get the wrong ones for your cams, the harmonics wont match and you're cams will snap. And also, is this car daily driven? Stage 3 cams are not made for daily driving, they are made for the track. To be able to run them, you're going to need programable engine management (AEM EMS, HONDATA, ect), and lots of dyno time. Even after this, you're idle will be high and eradic, gas milage will be *****, and a couple more disadvantages. Do some research, SEARCH is your friend, kid </TD></TR></TABLE>

who said anything about stage 3 cams? if you read closer, you would see that he is asking about buddy club spec III cams, which are more comparable to the skunk2 stage 1 cams.

you will be ok with your stock b16 valves, but you might want to get stronger valve springs and retainers than type-r if you plan on revving to 9000rpms.

 

Whats the point if you're not making power?

The whole point to revving high is to make more power. THe right compression, tuning, cam profiles and fuel delivery are all factors. Yeah sure, those cams are supposed to make power at 9k +, but that doesn't mean a stock B16 will do that.

The bottom end will spin that high all day long...but you will need some high compression to really need those cams. You may be better off with some Toda A's or even CTR's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Emerika &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whats the point if you're not making power?

The whole point to revving high is to make more power. THe right compression, tuning, cam profiles and fuel delivery are all factors. Yeah sure, those cams are supposed to make power at 9k +, but that doesn't mean a stock B16 will do that.

The bottom end will spin that high all day long...but you will need some high compression to really need those cams. You may be better off with some Toda A's or even CTR's </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly.....the bottom end will spin at that rpm all day long no problem. You DO NOT have to change your valves period! for that type of RPM. If the specs on the Buddy Club cams are similar to the S2 stage 1 cams you won't need to rev to 9000 rpm since there's nothing to gain past 8500 rpm power wise...I know because I have these cams and have had them properly tuned on the dyno. ITR valve springs can be used on your intake valves as an upgrade...your B16 valvesprings on the exhaust are fine because they are actually a higher rate than the type r springs because the B16 exhaust valves are heavier than the type r exhaust valves are. Be prepared to do more frequent valve adjustments if you're running in that high an RPM range on a frequent basis.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WAFFLES &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rev limiters are there to SAVE engines. It is placed there because that is determined to be the highest point you should rev to.(for stock applications)

Raising the rev limiter requires upgraded valvespring strength and tension, as well as making sure the bottomend can handle it. </TD></TR></TABLE>

For the most part, rev limiters are there to save engine components like the oil pump, water pump, alternator, etc.

The engine will wear prematurely, but will still take time.

Even if you are some spec racer, guy, person... doesn't matter really, if you're pegging the rev limiter daily your motor is going to fail... very prematurely.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by revolution8k &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

For the most part, rev limiters are there to save engine components like the oil pump, water pump, alternator, etc.

The engine will wear prematurely, but will still take time.

Even if you are some spec racer, guy, person... doesn't matter really, if you're pegging the rev limiter daily your motor is going to fail... very prematurely.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you on crack or you just act like you are. Here go take off your rev limiter and take it like 1500 rpms past the redline. then tell us what failed, I bet you it won't be your waterpump, or alternator.