warped front discs--2nd time in less than a year!
Hello,
I did a search on the Accord forum and nothing came up about this problem I have so here goes...
I've got a '00 Accord 4-cyl. EX and I had the pads replaced with aftermarket ceramics. Shortly thereafter, my rotors warped (I can tell because whenever I brake, the steering wheel shakes like crazy). Since then, I've had the rotors and pads replaced with aftermarket stuff again. it's been maybe 3 months since then and again they're warped.
Is it because I'm using aftermarket stuff or is it my braking habits? I tend to brake hard early then let off and coast gently to a stop.
thanks in advance.
I did a search on the Accord forum and nothing came up about this problem I have so here goes...
I've got a '00 Accord 4-cyl. EX and I had the pads replaced with aftermarket ceramics. Shortly thereafter, my rotors warped (I can tell because whenever I brake, the steering wheel shakes like crazy). Since then, I've had the rotors and pads replaced with aftermarket stuff again. it's been maybe 3 months since then and again they're warped.
Is it because I'm using aftermarket stuff or is it my braking habits? I tend to brake hard early then let off and coast gently to a stop.
thanks in advance.
Braking is done by converting motion energy into heat energy with friction.
More friction = more heat = conversion done faster = stop faster.
Aftermarket ceramic pads = much more friction.
Jamming on brake pedal harder = more friction.
Now, stock sized rotors of a stock kind of steel (which is usually very good steel BTW) can only absorb a certain amount of heat.
Once you exceed that heat capacity, they warp.
Note that factory original rotors are designed to last for years of use with normal pads, while cheap auto-parts-store replacements are made of cheaper steel that wears away quicker and CANNOT handle as much heat.
Throw on those ceramic pads and drive like Schumacher - WARP!
Solution: upgraded brakes as a system, not just pads.
Pads, rotors, calipers, lines, and even master cylinder must work in harmony.
Yeah, it costs a lot more. That's why I haven't done it.
I warped my cheapo no-name rotors in a couple weeks with cheapo no-name pads. I just put "premium" rotors on my car with ordinary pads- fingers are crossed.
More friction = more heat = conversion done faster = stop faster.
Aftermarket ceramic pads = much more friction.
Jamming on brake pedal harder = more friction.
Now, stock sized rotors of a stock kind of steel (which is usually very good steel BTW) can only absorb a certain amount of heat.
Once you exceed that heat capacity, they warp.
Note that factory original rotors are designed to last for years of use with normal pads, while cheap auto-parts-store replacements are made of cheaper steel that wears away quicker and CANNOT handle as much heat.
Throw on those ceramic pads and drive like Schumacher - WARP!
Solution: upgraded brakes as a system, not just pads.
Pads, rotors, calipers, lines, and even master cylinder must work in harmony.
Yeah, it costs a lot more. That's why I haven't done it.
I warped my cheapo no-name rotors in a couple weeks with cheapo no-name pads. I just put "premium" rotors on my car with ordinary pads- fingers are crossed.
thanks for the explanation. yeah, i guess it's a combination of equipment and braking habit that was doing it.
I was just thinking maybe I should put some higher quality rotors and pads in but if they cost a lot more than going stock, I probably won't do it.
Can you tell me what equipment you put on and how much it cost? how are they holding up?
thanks
I was just thinking maybe I should put some higher quality rotors and pads in but if they cost a lot more than going stock, I probably won't do it.
Can you tell me what equipment you put on and how much it cost? how are they holding up?
thanks
Read this on theories for rotor warpage.....
http://www.stoptech.com/whitep...h.htm
And keep in mind, that when you have your rotors resurfaced, you are removing more material from the rotor in 10 minutes than you could in a year of normal driving..... then your rotors overheat easier because they have less material to absorb the heat.
Ceramic pads are not recommended for daily driving because they tend to 'resist' heat buildup and that means that your rotors are having to absorb more....
My .02
http://www.stoptech.com/whitep...h.htm
And keep in mind, that when you have your rotors resurfaced, you are removing more material from the rotor in 10 minutes than you could in a year of normal driving..... then your rotors overheat easier because they have less material to absorb the heat.
Ceramic pads are not recommended for daily driving because they tend to 'resist' heat buildup and that means that your rotors are having to absorb more....
My .02
Basically, quit braking so hard.....if you wouldnt follow people so close or pay attention to the road a lil more you wouldnt have to brake so hard
well, i don't tailgate (i try to keep a 3 second cushion in front of me) and i scan the road as far down as possible. i'm very aware of conditions all around me--i pay very close attention to the road and other drivers.
when i know i'm going to come to a stop, i try to get the bulk of my momentum/speed down so i can coast gently to a stop. I don't brake hard at the very end when you absolutely must stop like some of my friends do.
it's a habit that'll be hard to break (get it? pun intended
).
when i know i'm going to come to a stop, i try to get the bulk of my momentum/speed down so i can coast gently to a stop. I don't brake hard at the very end when you absolutely must stop like some of my friends do.
it's a habit that'll be hard to break (get it? pun intended
).
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dont wash your car right after you are done driving, the cold water hitting your brake rotors can warp them ( brakes cooling too quick causing them to warp. also dont drive through a puddle while your brakes are hot) . happened to my freind.
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