Nitrous oxide, anyone wanna give me their 2 cents on it?
Im plannin to throw a 55-75 shot nitrous on my 02 ex 5spd...ive got iridium plugs, jdm plug wires, full catback tenzo exhaust, and a cold air injen intake...what kinda precautions can i do to prevent me from blowing my sh*t up when i spray
now i dont know much but i know enought to keep you realativly safe so you can listen or disgrard what i say, with a 55 shot you should be ok with stock internals as long as you dont juice the hell outta it, i think you start going higher then 55 its time for bottom end work, just to be safe.but manily use common sence, like dont use it in 2nd gear and that sorta thing. if anybody has somthing i missed or am wrong about plz let me now as well, hope it works out
You really should stop at 55 hp. If you wanted to be extra safe just shoot 35. Tom Payn of Payn Technologie said to me that he's never had a problem with nitrous, nitrous is not as bad as it's made out to be, it's just human error that causes problems and I trust him and agree. You need a built block to take the higher numbers, don't spray often, and dont spray in low gear.
i have a 55 shoot zex kit in my 92 automatic and i burnout in 1st and chirp 2nd if you have auto the zex kit is the best once you hit the gas it stays on until you let go. before i put it on i called zex and they said the safest kit they have is the 55 DRY shoot anyway i love it good luck.
ma boys said if i was gonna spray at about 50ish i might want to get a street/strip clutch too, to make sure i have good fuel/delivery, cold plugs....i was kinda thinkin bout gettin a clutch too cuz ma rides got almost 70K on it and ive ragged my ride alot in the beginning when i first got it, calmed down alot now but still ya know the clutch part still concerns me when i think bout juicin it
out of curiosity if anyone can answer this question with a definite answer.....does nitrous leave any residue behind in the motor IF anythin were to happen to it? cuz i still have warranty on my car for another 30K and just encase somethin were to happen to it and i took it to the dealership you think they might be able to see any traces of nitrous or what so ever when they open it up?
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i may be wrong but i did pretty in depth research on nitrous a few years ago, all nitrous is, is super compressed oxygen, with some nitrogen in it to keep it cool, so you should be ok, i dont think it will leave a residue
hmm that does sound logical.....damn people im hesitant on what i wanna do, nitrous or turbo, nitrous or turbo....decisions decisions
i like nitrous cuz its instant power vs turbo spooling....but then again to shoot more than 50 without having to upgrade some other vital parts thatll cost bukoo bucks kinda sucks
nitrous or tubro, hard decision but if your going over the 50-55 mark you gotta do some upgrading on your bottom end just to take the pressure and force created but you would have to do that for turbo or supercharger or anything making boost,
boost=more force=you need stronger parts, if your looking for a small (relativly) "safe" hp gain, id pick the nos and stay bellow the 55 mark like has been said above
boost=more force=you need stronger parts, if your looking for a small (relativly) "safe" hp gain, id pick the nos and stay bellow the 55 mark like has been said above
yea i hear on that....dont think i got the extra bread to be breakin to upgrade to handle the extra....i think ill prolly end up stickin wit da 50 shot.....roughly how much extra horses ya think i can gain from a 50 dry and should i get a purge valve too?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f23accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i hear on that....dont think i got the extra bread to be breakin to upgrade to handle the extra....i think ill prolly end up stickin wit da 50 shot.....roughly how much extra horses ya think i can gain from a 50 dry and should i get a purge valve too?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Go turbo, easy decision. Its (turbo) actually cheaper in the long run when you count bottle refills ($25-40). If you're worried about spool time get a small, quick spooling turbo. And why are you so worried about spool time?? When you get into boost, you'll completely forget how long it took to get there. Besides what's your hurry? If you're racing you'll have a quarter mile which is a ton of time, and if you're street racing the you suck at life. Turbo, y0! Seriously, its the best decision, period.
Go turbo, easy decision. Its (turbo) actually cheaper in the long run when you count bottle refills ($25-40). If you're worried about spool time get a small, quick spooling turbo. And why are you so worried about spool time?? When you get into boost, you'll completely forget how long it took to get there. Besides what's your hurry? If you're racing you'll have a quarter mile which is a ton of time, and if you're street racing the you suck at life. Turbo, y0! Seriously, its the best decision, period.
Im not too familiar with turbo kit pricing for my car, whats the price on it? I know nitrous kits can go for about $500
ok f23...listen...i have a 00 accord 4dr with the f23 as well. My mod list is as follows..
full custom catback with ractive carbon fiber exhaust..
DC sport header
Short ram ractive intake
MSD sparkplug wires
NGK plugs
Street and Strip performance throttle body plate spacer...
APEXI safc
WITH ZEX DRY system with a 55 shot
ZEX purge system
ZEX bottle opener
ZEX amplifier kit
My car has ran fine since and before the zex system. i did all the mods prior to the nitrous and the car was fairly quick for a 4cy with 18s and the 19s. I did the nitrous mainly for show and tested on the track...BIG DIFFERENT..w/o mid 16s and with the car ran a 15.6. NOw take into conseration this is a 4dr,with 19s, wide bodied, complete kit, full interior, and fiberglass truck enclourses!!...so your results may vary!?!?!...depending on what you got....But the guys are right, that 55 shot will work fine on your car and your engine will act like it never had anything happen to it. Since i have ran it twice at the track, i have ran it a couple of times on the streets..no signs of problems...mind you i dont drive the car regular,,,it is a show car and i have another car to drive everyday...so agian you may have different responses....
but nevertheless the engine and car will be fine to handle the system....ya get the purge..very nice touch to play with!!!
full custom catback with ractive carbon fiber exhaust..
DC sport header
Short ram ractive intake
MSD sparkplug wires
NGK plugs
Street and Strip performance throttle body plate spacer...
APEXI safc
WITH ZEX DRY system with a 55 shot
ZEX purge system
ZEX bottle opener
ZEX amplifier kit
My car has ran fine since and before the zex system. i did all the mods prior to the nitrous and the car was fairly quick for a 4cy with 18s and the 19s. I did the nitrous mainly for show and tested on the track...BIG DIFFERENT..w/o mid 16s and with the car ran a 15.6. NOw take into conseration this is a 4dr,with 19s, wide bodied, complete kit, full interior, and fiberglass truck enclourses!!...so your results may vary!?!?!...depending on what you got....But the guys are right, that 55 shot will work fine on your car and your engine will act like it never had anything happen to it. Since i have ran it twice at the track, i have ran it a couple of times on the streets..no signs of problems...mind you i dont drive the car regular,,,it is a show car and i have another car to drive everyday...so agian you may have different responses....
but nevertheless the engine and car will be fine to handle the system....ya get the purge..very nice touch to play with!!!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f23accord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i like nitrous cuz its instant power vs turbo spooling....but then again to shoot more than 50 without having to upgrade some other vital parts thatll cost bukoo bucks kinda sucks</TD></TR></TABLE>
dont judge the book by the cover, yes turbo need spooling and n2o/supercharger do not, but i'll take a turbo over bottle/sc.
but the chances are, you wouldnt be looking at turbo kit anytime soon.
you'll want..
bottle warmer(not zex', their warmer blows)
colder plug(just to play safe)
retard timing(msd,etc)
FPR w/liquid filled guage
vafc
Fseries motor should be fine 50-75shots, low compression
dont judge the book by the cover, yes turbo need spooling and n2o/supercharger do not, but i'll take a turbo over bottle/sc.
but the chances are, you wouldnt be looking at turbo kit anytime soon.
you'll want..
bottle warmer(not zex', their warmer blows)
colder plug(just to play safe)
retard timing(msd,etc)
FPR w/liquid filled guage
vafc
Fseries motor should be fine 50-75shots, low compression
For Nitrous youll need colder plugs and youll have to retard the timing of your car ONCE YOU PASS 35 HP!! When shooting the nitrous, you put the accelerator to the floor to open up the throttle completely to make sure enough fuel is entering into the engine. The reason being, when not enough fuel is being sprayed too much oxygen may be entering the engine as a result of the NOS, and components WILL BURN. once you go for 100 HP+, you gotta strengthen other components, unless you wanna see pistons fly
ive been running a 75 wet shot on my f22b1 94 EX for almost 3 yrs.
i bet 90% of the guys that posted to this thread have never personally used nitrous.
the rule of thumb for max shot selection is half the crank hp your motor makes.
yes nitrous will leave sulfur deposits in your engine. they add sulfur to nitrous so idiots wont huff it and so that if there is a leak you can smell it. unless you get ahold of medical grade nitrous which requires special licenses then your gonna have sulfur deposits.
as for upgrades you may want to look into colder plugs like NGK BKR7E plugs, MSD Digital 6+ because with spray you will want to retard your ignition timing to be safe, retard a degree for 50 shot and a couple degrees for a 75 shot and with this MSD unit it will automatically retard for you when you arm your nitrous solenoid instead of being retard all the time which will bog down your car while NA.
if your getting a wet kit you may want to look into an adj. FPR. since your car is new the fuel pump should suffice but if you want to upgrade a walbro 190 or 255lph is what you would want depending on your setup.
as far as ZEX DRY being the safest kit, its all a matter of preference. personally im am biased and will only spray with a wet kit. IMO dry kits tend to have issues with evenly distributing nitrous in all cylinders and causing a cylinder or two to lean out. also dry kits are very limited, wet kits can easily be converted to plate or direct port systems. also the NX wet (what i have) rates their shots at WHP not at crank hp as most dry kits do.
if you dont ever plan on running a shot over 75 a dry kit is fine. both dry and wet kits are safe as long as they are used ad directed.
the only thing to blow on me was my auto tranny that was with a tranny cooler and a rpm window switch. i did a manual conversion and i chose an exedy cerametallic racing clutch and its a bit chattery but grabs very well. although the tranny conversion was a bitch and took forever for me to do as i had limited time, tools, space and money, it was all worth it. spraying out of the pocket is way more fun and whoever said dont spray in 2nd, wtf are you talking about.
Modified by raceACCORDingly at 11:04 PM 10/27/2004
i bet 90% of the guys that posted to this thread have never personally used nitrous.
the rule of thumb for max shot selection is half the crank hp your motor makes.
yes nitrous will leave sulfur deposits in your engine. they add sulfur to nitrous so idiots wont huff it and so that if there is a leak you can smell it. unless you get ahold of medical grade nitrous which requires special licenses then your gonna have sulfur deposits.
as for upgrades you may want to look into colder plugs like NGK BKR7E plugs, MSD Digital 6+ because with spray you will want to retard your ignition timing to be safe, retard a degree for 50 shot and a couple degrees for a 75 shot and with this MSD unit it will automatically retard for you when you arm your nitrous solenoid instead of being retard all the time which will bog down your car while NA.
if your getting a wet kit you may want to look into an adj. FPR. since your car is new the fuel pump should suffice but if you want to upgrade a walbro 190 or 255lph is what you would want depending on your setup.
as far as ZEX DRY being the safest kit, its all a matter of preference. personally im am biased and will only spray with a wet kit. IMO dry kits tend to have issues with evenly distributing nitrous in all cylinders and causing a cylinder or two to lean out. also dry kits are very limited, wet kits can easily be converted to plate or direct port systems. also the NX wet (what i have) rates their shots at WHP not at crank hp as most dry kits do.
if you dont ever plan on running a shot over 75 a dry kit is fine. both dry and wet kits are safe as long as they are used ad directed.
the only thing to blow on me was my auto tranny that was with a tranny cooler and a rpm window switch. i did a manual conversion and i chose an exedy cerametallic racing clutch and its a bit chattery but grabs very well. although the tranny conversion was a bitch and took forever for me to do as i had limited time, tools, space and money, it was all worth it. spraying out of the pocket is way more fun and whoever said dont spray in 2nd, wtf are you talking about.
Modified by raceACCORDingly at 11:04 PM 10/27/2004
Totally right on the sulfur and dry kit for under 75 shot
. I have a Zex dry kit which I used on a accord coupe 2000 4 banger and man it turned out great.Great immediate power but you do have to know how to use it and use it wisely.I would only kick it in on the 2nd and 3rd gears and Zex suggests to not spray for more than 4-5 seconds per gear. In the beginning you'll probalbly be filling up your bottle every week because you'll love the power but after a while you'll calm down and a bottle will prob last you 2 weeks (depends on how you spray of course).YES get colder plugs! All depending on the weather where you live you'll maybe want a bottle heater too. Hope this helps you out a bit and good luck.
. I have a Zex dry kit which I used on a accord coupe 2000 4 banger and man it turned out great.Great immediate power but you do have to know how to use it and use it wisely.I would only kick it in on the 2nd and 3rd gears and Zex suggests to not spray for more than 4-5 seconds per gear. In the beginning you'll probalbly be filling up your bottle every week because you'll love the power but after a while you'll calm down and a bottle will prob last you 2 weeks (depends on how you spray of course).YES get colder plugs! All depending on the weather where you live you'll maybe want a bottle heater too. Hope this helps you out a bit and good luck.
thats tru everything that raceACCORDingly
said is true. I have a prelude 95jdm in a accord and i have been sprayin for over a year i am using a dry shot 70hp. and compression still is high.
said is true. I have a prelude 95jdm in a accord and i have been sprayin for over a year i am using a dry shot 70hp. and compression still is high.
Drive a boosted car and you will never consider nitrous again
Nitrous is no substitute for boost. I have driven a juiced car and currently own a boosted car, so I know of that which I speak
Nitrous is no substitute for boost. I have driven a juiced car and currently own a boosted car, so I know of that which I speak


