Two Questions
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From: Somewhere In The West, USA
Two Questions
1. I'm about to purchase a coilover suspension (more details later) and would like to get a camber kit, and install everything together. Is the Skunk Kit I've seen at King (http://www.kingmotorsports.com/product.asp?detail=1946) the best way to go? I did some additional research, but couldn't really find anything else. This appears to be a good bet.
The only info I get from searching the archives is that there are two designs. The +/- 3 design is the one that slips, and the newer one, +/- 4 doesn't slip. So, the King one listed is still the older one? I might have to talk to Clayton and see if they have the newer ones in stock.
2. Regarding the Mugen (or Spoon) front strut tower bar, how much stiffer is this, compared to the stock unit? For example, with the rear swaybar, we have some actual numbers to go by. IIRC, the 23mm JDM bar is 22% stiffer than the stock 22mm bar. The 24mm Mugen bar is around 46% stiffer.
Do we have some actual numbers with the front strut tower bar as well? Having quantitative figures actually helps justify this sort of an upgrade, when you know for a fact that you're not just getting it for looks and show.
Modified by fso_BamBam at 8:30 PM 10/26/2004
The only info I get from searching the archives is that there are two designs. The +/- 3 design is the one that slips, and the newer one, +/- 4 doesn't slip. So, the King one listed is still the older one? I might have to talk to Clayton and see if they have the newer ones in stock.
2. Regarding the Mugen (or Spoon) front strut tower bar, how much stiffer is this, compared to the stock unit? For example, with the rear swaybar, we have some actual numbers to go by. IIRC, the 23mm JDM bar is 22% stiffer than the stock 22mm bar. The 24mm Mugen bar is around 46% stiffer.
Do we have some actual numbers with the front strut tower bar as well? Having quantitative figures actually helps justify this sort of an upgrade, when you know for a fact that you're not just getting it for looks and show.
Modified by fso_BamBam at 8:30 PM 10/26/2004
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From: Fairbanks
Re: Two Questions (fso_BamBam)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fso_BamBam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
2. Regarding the Mugen (or Spoon) front strut tower bar, how much stiffer is this, compared to the stock unit? For example, with the rear swaybar, we have some actual numbers to go by. IIRC, the 23mm JDM bar is 22% stiffer than the stock 22mm bar. The 24mm Mugen bar is around 46% stiffer.
Do we have some actual numbers with the front strut tower bar as well? Having quantitative figures actually helps justify this sort of an upgrade, when you know for a fact that you're not just getting it for looks and show.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know the answer to your question #1. Ask Ausmith... he works for King.
As for your second question, Mugen strut bar is definitely stiff. But, I don't have the torsional ridigity data. If you want that minimizes side-to-side flex, your best bet is to get a carbing triagular bar. That helps to minimize both twist and side-to-side flex.
2. Regarding the Mugen (or Spoon) front strut tower bar, how much stiffer is this, compared to the stock unit? For example, with the rear swaybar, we have some actual numbers to go by. IIRC, the 23mm JDM bar is 22% stiffer than the stock 22mm bar. The 24mm Mugen bar is around 46% stiffer.
Do we have some actual numbers with the front strut tower bar as well? Having quantitative figures actually helps justify this sort of an upgrade, when you know for a fact that you're not just getting it for looks and show.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I don't know the answer to your question #1. Ask Ausmith... he works for King.
As for your second question, Mugen strut bar is definitely stiff. But, I don't have the torsional ridigity data. If you want that minimizes side-to-side flex, your best bet is to get a carbing triagular bar. That helps to minimize both twist and side-to-side flex.
Re: Two Questions (Cosworth)
The Mugen bar is night and day when it comes to stiffness but you won't be able to tell with just normal driving. The stock bar flexes like nuts 
More a show peice which it accomplishes quite well.
More a show peice which it accomplishes quite well.
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From: kuidaore
Re: Two Questions (Cosworth)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cosworth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I don't know the answer to your question #1. Ask Ausmith... he works for King. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.
And
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cosworth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for your second question, Mugen strut bar is definitely stiff. But, I don't have the torsional ridigity data. If you want that minimizes side-to-side flex, your best bet is to get a carbing triagular bar. That helps to minimize both twist and side-to-side flex.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed again.
Honestly if I did it all over again I'd just get the rear strut tower bar. The front one doesn't make any noticable difference IMO and there are several cars running in HC with the stock ITR front tower bar. The biggest stiffening factor I found was when I added my Autopower rollbar. The rear strut tower bar wasn't as noticable as the rollbar.
And as per the carbing triangular I'd guess it to be quite rigid as well but is not legal for SCCA competition and thus why was never an option for me. I chose the Mugen Gen 2 bars and only really got the front one to have a blingin matching set. Sans the stickers of course.
I don't know the answer to your question #1. Ask Ausmith... he works for King. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed.
And
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cosworth »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As for your second question, Mugen strut bar is definitely stiff. But, I don't have the torsional ridigity data. If you want that minimizes side-to-side flex, your best bet is to get a carbing triagular bar. That helps to minimize both twist and side-to-side flex.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed again.
Honestly if I did it all over again I'd just get the rear strut tower bar. The front one doesn't make any noticable difference IMO and there are several cars running in HC with the stock ITR front tower bar. The biggest stiffening factor I found was when I added my Autopower rollbar. The rear strut tower bar wasn't as noticable as the rollbar.
And as per the carbing triangular I'd guess it to be quite rigid as well but is not legal for SCCA competition and thus why was never an option for me. I chose the Mugen Gen 2 bars and only really got the front one to have a blingin matching set. Sans the stickers of course.
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From: Somewhere In The West, USA
Re: Two Questions (1GreyTeg)
Thanks for the responses. I'll be checking with King directly on the Skunk Camber Kit.
It looks like for #2, I can keep the stock front, and just get the Mugen rear, or for the sake of them matching, I can get both, with the expectation that the front won't make a huge difference. Although the car being track only, maybe it will make some sort of a difference, just not during any street driving. (which I don't do much, anyway)
I'll most likely buy the rear one, and have someone in the family get me a front as a Christmas gift!
It looks like for #2, I can keep the stock front, and just get the Mugen rear, or for the sake of them matching, I can get both, with the expectation that the front won't make a huge difference. Although the car being track only, maybe it will make some sort of a difference, just not during any street driving. (which I don't do much, anyway)
I'll most likely buy the rear one, and have someone in the family get me a front as a Christmas gift!
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From: bumper to bumper with AMERIE
Re: Two Questions (kengs)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kengs »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alternative to the Skunks would be the A-Sports.</TD></TR></TABLE>
shizam!!
shizam!!
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