help to prepare for paint
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From: city, CA, USA
help to prepare for paint
wussup, today i just bought a 1990 integra rs and i want to know how do i prepare my car for a cheap paint job. i heard that cheap paint jobs can be nice if u prep it right. do i jus sand it down or do i need primer too? also wut are the top places to get a decent paint job for cheap?
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Re: help to prepare for paint (marsbike)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marsbike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sand with 1200 grit wet paper, then 2000. and for cheap...you COULD use krylon...or rustoleum</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats sounds way to fine a grit to be sanding for paint. Isn't that for polishing paint?
thats sounds way to fine a grit to be sanding for paint. Isn't that for polishing paint?
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Re: help to prepare for paint (marsbike)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marsbike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sand with 1200 grit wet paper, then 2000. and for cheap...you COULD use krylon...or rustoleum</TD></TR></TABLE>
that's much too fine.
Sand every square inch of painted surface w/ 400, and then with 600 to get the best finish possible. For large relatively flat areas you should block sand, and for contours just hold a piece of sandpaper in your hand. Fold the sandpaper into thirds so you can turn it after the side you're using wears out. Use water (wetsand) to help wash away the grit and keep the sandpaper clean.
After sanding, dry the car off and look very closely over every square inch of the body. If you see any shiny spots, sand it again. Paint won't stick very well to any shiny spots.
that's much too fine.
Sand every square inch of painted surface w/ 400, and then with 600 to get the best finish possible. For large relatively flat areas you should block sand, and for contours just hold a piece of sandpaper in your hand. Fold the sandpaper into thirds so you can turn it after the side you're using wears out. Use water (wetsand) to help wash away the grit and keep the sandpaper clean.
After sanding, dry the car off and look very closely over every square inch of the body. If you see any shiny spots, sand it again. Paint won't stick very well to any shiny spots.
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From: NOR CAL, CA, usa
Re: help to prepare for paint (GetSmoked)
how much do u have to spend to do ur paint job? We just scuffed the clear coat off my car and primered over that. U dont need to go too deep if your not experienced with this stuff. I prefer you go to a shop if u have no experience 
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From: Somewhere, NJ
patrick said it
1200+ is way to fine no way.
Sand it with 400 then 600, if your guna prime it yourself too make sure you prime in between layers or at least after your done priming sand it down again so the paint coat looks nice and smooth. Just dont put to many layers of primer or its easier to chip off
1200+ is way to fine no way.
Sand it with 400 then 600, if your guna prime it yourself too make sure you prime in between layers or at least after your done priming sand it down again so the paint coat looks nice and smooth. Just dont put to many layers of primer or its easier to chip off
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Re: (LostAndFound)
Well yeah the sanding I was referring to was for areas not being primed, as well as after priming any areas where bodywork was done.
You do not have to primer the WHOLE car. You only need to spray primer on areas where bodywork was done, i.e. bare metal, areas of filler or bondo, etc. The primer acts as a sealer to keep those areas from developing rust.
On my car, after priming over all the bodywork, we sprayed on a very light dusting of some cheap black spraypaint over the primed areas. This helps any remaining low spots or high spots show up as you block sand, and will help you get the best possible end product.
Above you can see the light dusting of black over the primered areas on the hood and bumpers. All the primed areas got the same dusting, but the side of the car and the hatch deck in these shots have already been blocked.
^^^ Smooth (blocked) primer on the fender, vs. rough primer on the hood.
Notice how the edge of the primer sorta fades out into the paint underneath on the fender, while the primer on the bumper still has a sharp line from masking. Before blocking, that sharp line will be like a raised edge above the previous paint finish. When you block sand, you smooth all that out so that you cannot feel the transition from old finish to new primer, and the edge becomes feathered as you can see.
You do not have to primer the WHOLE car. You only need to spray primer on areas where bodywork was done, i.e. bare metal, areas of filler or bondo, etc. The primer acts as a sealer to keep those areas from developing rust.
On my car, after priming over all the bodywork, we sprayed on a very light dusting of some cheap black spraypaint over the primed areas. This helps any remaining low spots or high spots show up as you block sand, and will help you get the best possible end product.
Above you can see the light dusting of black over the primered areas on the hood and bumpers. All the primed areas got the same dusting, but the side of the car and the hatch deck in these shots have already been blocked.
^^^ Smooth (blocked) primer on the fender, vs. rough primer on the hood.
Notice how the edge of the primer sorta fades out into the paint underneath on the fender, while the primer on the bumper still has a sharp line from masking. Before blocking, that sharp line will be like a raised edge above the previous paint finish. When you block sand, you smooth all that out so that you cannot feel the transition from old finish to new primer, and the edge becomes feathered as you can see.
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From: Las Cruces, NM, USA
Re: (PatrickGSR94)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You do not have to primer the WHOLE car. You only need to spray primer on areas where bodywork was done, i.e. bare metal, areas of filler or bondo, etc. The primer acts as a sealer to keep those areas from developing rust.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Very good info Patrick, but I would like to comment on the above quote.
For bare metal you need to make sure you use a primer that can stick well to it. Also like you said primering is not necessary to paint your whole car (contrary to what a lot of people that dont paint think). But if you are drastically changing colors like from blue to red, a sealer coat "DURING" the actual paint job is a good idea to kill off the effect that the 2 colors would normally do to each other.
Now for the last sentence in that paragraph, yes primer does work as a sealer to prevent rust but underneath paint its not gonna matter much because the paint acts as a sealer to prevent rust. What primer does is quite a few things. Like seal pourous fillers from sucking the shine from a paint job or evening out minor waves and like you said later on, evening out the transition from repair work to the rest of the body.
EDIT:
I also wanted to mention that the black spray can coating is called "Guide Coating" your primer. It helps you see the highs and lows of the area your working with.
Mike!
Very good info Patrick, but I would like to comment on the above quote.
For bare metal you need to make sure you use a primer that can stick well to it. Also like you said primering is not necessary to paint your whole car (contrary to what a lot of people that dont paint think). But if you are drastically changing colors like from blue to red, a sealer coat "DURING" the actual paint job is a good idea to kill off the effect that the 2 colors would normally do to each other.
Now for the last sentence in that paragraph, yes primer does work as a sealer to prevent rust but underneath paint its not gonna matter much because the paint acts as a sealer to prevent rust. What primer does is quite a few things. Like seal pourous fillers from sucking the shine from a paint job or evening out minor waves and like you said later on, evening out the transition from repair work to the rest of the body.
EDIT:
I also wanted to mention that the black spray can coating is called "Guide Coating" your primer. It helps you see the highs and lows of the area your working with.
Mike!
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From: kirkland, WA
Re: (Mikerocosms)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikerocosms »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I also wanted to mention that the black spray can coating is called "Guide Coating" your primer. It helps you see the highs and lows of the area your working with.
Mike!</TD></TR></TABLE>
also comes in what looks like tupperwear (sp?) container with an applicator on the top and is applied in the form of a powder.
I also wanted to mention that the black spray can coating is called "Guide Coating" your primer. It helps you see the highs and lows of the area your working with.
Mike!</TD></TR></TABLE>
also comes in what looks like tupperwear (sp?) container with an applicator on the top and is applied in the form of a powder.
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Re: (TRD MA70)
Patrick show us the end result please. I wish I had the bawlz to do this on my own but to scared . Taking sandpaper to my paint just does;nt seem rightto me and my car desparatley needs a repaint on the hood and roof and front bumper. I am in the process of saving the cash this winter and sending my DC to a local paint shop to get the work done.
Awsome write up and hope the post-er will gain some knowledgable info.
Awsome write up and hope the post-er will gain some knowledgable info.
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From: Las Cruces, NM, USA
Re: (TRD MA70)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TRD MA70 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also comes in what looks like tupperwear (sp?) container with an applicator on the top and is applied in the form of a powder.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah Ive used that powder guide coat. I personally use a specific spray can guide coat made by SEM. It sprays on very well (better than cheapo black paint). I kinda liked the powder version but it seemed too light to me when applied. I like a nice dark color change when guide coating.
But it is nice when you dont want to spray anything on a certain panel.
Mike!
Yeah Ive used that powder guide coat. I personally use a specific spray can guide coat made by SEM. It sprays on very well (better than cheapo black paint). I kinda liked the powder version but it seemed too light to me when applied. I like a nice dark color change when guide coating.
But it is nice when you dont want to spray anything on a certain panel.
Mike!
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Re: (CryBaby X)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CryBaby X »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Patrick show us the end result please. I wish I had the bawlz to do this on my own but to scared . Taking sandpaper to my paint just does;nt seem rightto me and my car desparatley needs a repaint on the hood and roof and front bumper. I am in the process of saving the cash this winter and sending my DC to a local paint shop to get the work done.
Awsome write up and hope the post-er will gain some knowledgable info. </TD></TR></TABLE>
pics since paint:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=949065
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=981558
Awsome write up and hope the post-er will gain some knowledgable info.
</TD></TR></TABLE>pics since paint:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=949065
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=981558
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