did alot of search with the code 9, not really any help besides replace the dizzy. any one else have any insight?

keyless entry and radio prob- could the problems be connected. i also did a search and people just said to get a new one or its fried. im a stero noob so how can i tell if its fried. and somelse metioned to check the internal supply fuse. how do u take off radio casing? the radio worked at the morning on the way to school but on the way back it didnt turn on?

 

you must not have searched hard enough. Ive answered at least 4 of these code 9 threads. Gotta meter the 2 and 4 on the dizzy connector. then meter it at the ECU female connector. No reading or reading from one side to ground = dead CYP sensor = new dizzy HOUSING, not entire dizzy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you must not have searched hard enough. Ive answered at least 4 of these code 9 threads. Gotta meter the 2 and 4 on the dizzy connector. then meter it at the ECU female connector. No reading or reading from one side to ground = dead CYP sensor = new dizzy HOUSING, not entire dizzy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

need me to explain more in detail ? pics of where or how? what ohms they need to read at?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">need me to explain more in detail ? pics of where or how? what ohms they need to read at? </TD></TR></TABLE>

itd be greatly appriciated


Modified by john d at 2:29 PM 10/26/2004

 

You need to dissconnect the dizzy, then pull the top half (the male side) of its rubber mount to check these 2 connectors. Get a Meter and set it on ohms ( the omega sign) It needs to read between 260 - 460 ohms. Also, check it from one connector at a time, to a ground source on the body. If it has a reading to a ground source, that means its shorted. If you dont get a reading or it is shorted, you need to replace the dizzy ignition housing.


Next, pull the ECU out, and disconnect this connector.


Meter these 2 spots. Again, you need to read between 260-460 ohms. Again check it to a ground and see if you get a reading. If you get nothing, you have an open in the wire somewhere from the dizzy back in the harness.

I didnt have my keys in the ignition or anything when i checked this stuff on my car. You may have to put your keys in a turn it 1 click to get a reading on the connector at the ECU. Good luck.

If all else fails pull the cap off and if you got red dust and **** in your dizzy, your ignitor is gone.

<U>And someone FAQ this ****!!!!</U>

 

good write up, will try it out when i get home tonight. anyone know anything about the keyless entry/radio?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

<U>And someone FAQ this ****!!!!</U></TD></TR></TABLE>

STICKY

 

what is the problem with the keyless and the radio, please explain......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by v-technician &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is the problem with the keyless and the radio, please explain......</TD></TR></TABLE>

basicly they dont work

raido- it doesnt turn on or anything. but the clock and the lil anti theft light flashes

keyless entry- doesnt do a thing when i press unlock/lock on my remote.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by john d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

basicly they dont work

raido- it doesnt turn on or anything. but the clock and the lil anti theft light flashes

keyless entry- doesnt do a thing when i press unlock/lock on my remote.</TD></TR></TABLE>