*EDIT**EDIT**EDIT*

I got the traction bars installed so now it clears my intercooler piping with out a problem..

now i need to know how to adjust them? do i tighten them as much as possible to push the wheel back using the rod and nut?? or do they just install and sit there pretty much.. im thinkin i need to extend them to push the wheel back but im not sure

i know people have installed them before so someone should be able to help me out..


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im currently getting my car ready for the import vs domestic race in Nov @ MIR
i have a set of axis 13" wheels w/ slicks that i will be using.. im in the process of installing my full-race traction bars and im having trouble with them clearing the drag intercooler piping on the car now..

im going to need to get at least 2 90* silicone couplers in order to make it fit and clear i think.. but time is running out because i will be out of town the week before the race..

so question is, are traction bars really needed when using slicks at the track? right now i dont have alot of wheel hop at all when i launch, but i do have traction problems w/ the front wheels spinning when i get on it..

also i bought these traction bars used, is there a certain way that they need to be adjusted or setup when installed?

thanks
ryan


Modified by TurboBumblBee at 1:28 PM 10/31/2004

 

i want to hear some opinions.. im probably gonna try my hardest to get the traction bars installed but want to hear what other people think..

 

Definitely needed. Check out Fab1 on here.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TGARCIARACING &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Definitely needed. Check out Fab1 on here.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i looked up his name and didnt see much.. what am i checking him out for??

 

here you go
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1031700

I run it on my race car 600+ and hooking!

 

unfortunately some drag kits have that problem, particularly if you have AC. if you dont have AC you can get around the problem

 

I would definitely use them. They will benefit you no matter what tires you run. Less bushing deflection=less wheel hop=better 60 foot times and let's not forget...less broken parts..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">unfortunately some drag kits have that problem, particularly if you have AC. if you dont have AC you can get around the problem</TD></TR></TABLE>

I had that problem with my drag kit runing the jim fab traction bars. I was able to make it work without having to get new IC pipes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">unfortunately some drag kits have that problem, particularly if you have AC. if you dont have AC you can get around the problem</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I had that problem with my drag kit runing the jim fab traction bars. I was able to make it work without having to get new IC pipes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the car originally came with A/C but it is all taken out now.. only part of it left is the left lower tourqe mount..

im gonna get off work tonight and mess around with it and try to get it fit..

Full-Race Geoff - check your PM im wondering if you would be able to send me some install instructions for adjusting them and also so i can know the correct tourqe specs.. thanks

 

i dropped an average of 1.5 tenths of my 60' using traction bars with slicks as opposed to just slicks. if you want the best times, get your couplings and go go go!!

 

what i am recommending may not be the easiest, but its the best way to do it in my opinion. The first option is a bit easier.

1) remove AC compressor, remove AC condensor, loosen bolts on the back of the compressor housing, rotate the compressor housing up, and bring the piping up as appropriate.


OR

2) Flip your turbo around, so the compressor is on the driver's side. Make a new downpipe, and convert your IC to backdoor style

edit: nice avatar burke

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Full-Race Geoff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i am recommending may not be the easiest, but its the best way to do it in my opinion. The first option is a bit easier.

1) remove AC compressor, remove AC condensor, loosen bolts on the back of the compressor housing, rotate the compressor housing up, and bring the piping up as appropriate.


OR

2) Flip your turbo around, so the compressor is on the driver's side. Make a new downpipe, and convert your IC to backdoor style

edit: nice avatar burke</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks Geoff... i was thinking this already as part of my solution.. i plan on working on it tonight after work.

as for part 2 i wish i would be able to make a new downpipe and do all the fabrication myself but thats not possible and i dont have the money to do all that now..

ill let you know how it turns out.. thanks

 

got them installed and made it so it clears my intercooler piping..

now i need to know how to adjust them? do i tighten them as much as possible to push the wheel back using the rod and nut?? or do they just install and sit there pretty much.. im thinkin i need to extend them to push the wheel back but im not sure

i know people have installed them before so someone should be able to help me out..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurboBumblBee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">got them installed and made it so it clears my intercooler piping..

now i need to know how to adjust them? do i tighten them as much as possible to push the wheel back using the rod and nut?? or do they just install and sit there pretty much.. im thinkin i need to extend them to push the wheel back but im not sure

i know people have installed them before so someone should be able to help me out..</TD></TR></TABLE>

bump from the grave as i will be installing mine soon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slick GS-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
bump from the grave as i will be installing mine soon </TD></TR></TABLE>

You want them to pull the wheel forward, not push back. Extend your wheelbase to help prevent weight transfer. That's how mine are set up. You should get an alignment shop to adjust them though.

 

they are supposed to pull the wheels forward?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adictionbass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they are supposed to pull the wheels forward?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I'm interested in knowing as well. I just ordered up a set of L-Cons and am sure that any shop around here would have no idea about adjusting them. I guess I kinda figured you just adjusted them until they were nice and tight.

 

Depends on how you want your car set up. Higher caster settings give a little more straight-line stability, while lower settings make the steering lighter and the car tend to turn easier. As I stated before it also increases wheelbase to have positive caster but it's probably an insignificant margin.