How many miles on the tach before you change the clutch?
I have about 40K miles now, but seems like my clutch is still working fine.
Just wonder what kind of miles do you guys get from the stock clutch.
Just wonder what kind of miles do you guys get from the stock clutch.
Getting ready to do mine at less then 10k
Mainly going to do it bacause I smoke it bad at the strip and I'm doing an ATS final drive w/ Spoon fly/clutch combo.
Mainly going to do it bacause I smoke it bad at the strip and I'm doing an ATS final drive w/ Spoon fly/clutch combo.
Well, i just picked my car up today from the getting the clutch replaced. The car has 40K miles on it and I was having some problems. The tech said he received a memo (did he mean a TSB?) about the springs in the ITR and GSR discs falling apart.
So, how does the new clutch feel? Exactly the same as the old one. All my symptoms are still there. It didn't solve anything. I'm not complaining because the work was done under warranty, but I still have to have my problem fixed.
-Floyd
So, how does the new clutch feel? Exactly the same as the old one. All my symptoms are still there. It didn't solve anything. I'm not complaining because the work was done under warranty, but I still have to have my problem fixed.
-Floyd
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10k on the odo and my stock clutch is taking a ****...
What a piece of crap. I think all the stock parts can only handle the power of the stock motor. Everything appears to be a bottleneck and/ or can't handle any additonal power!
Hopefully I can get it replaced under warranty...
What a piece of crap. I think all the stock parts can only handle the power of the stock motor. Everything appears to be a bottleneck and/ or can't handle any additonal power!
Hopefully I can get it replaced under warranty...
I think all the stock parts can only handle the power of the stock motor.

Sounds like a reasonable design philosophy to me... Of course, you knew that when you started making those mods, and you knew your warranty would not cover any damage caused by the mods, right?
Luckily my car can be returned to stock without any traces of tampering if need be...
My philosophy is to upgrade these "wear" items anyway: toda clutch and flywheel sound ok to you?
Mine jus gave out at 120k, one of the springs popped out. But ive only had the car for about 2mos. I have a friend with 150k who races regularly street and strip and his is just fine
and hes been to the strip atleast 15+ times since hes had the car at 130k. But then again ive heard of people having their clutches go out with a lot less miles Just to give you a general idea.
and hes been to the strip atleast 15+ times since hes had the car at 130k. But then again ive heard of people having their clutches go out with a lot less miles Just to give you a general idea.
Whats your problem? Did the tech that worked on your car say the spring fell out? If so, did they find the old spring?
Floyd-did they replace the release bearing with the clutch? If they did not, that could be causing the problems you are hearing with the release bearing. When I replaced my clutch (at 101,498 miles, to satisfy the original post) I also replaced my release bearing, and the process of doing this this annoying rattling sound (very similar to the sound, but amplified ans sped up, of a worn-out release bearing when it is turned by hand) that was constant but only audiable when the car was in neutral, and went away shortly after the clutch was depressed, much to my satisfaction and relief.
My unadjusted pedal, which did not allow ANY free-play in the clutch and made it so extreme that the clutch would only work when it was partially depressed and it would not even shift if the clutch was fully depressed, then (at least I reason) wore the poor new bearing out in the two days (and about 350-450 miles) it took me to locate the problem of the clutch not working when fully depressed. Now the damn sound is back.
Just a possibility, so you might want to call the dealer to make sure they did in fact change out the release bearing at the same time. I dont think that this could be the cause of any of the other symptoms though. HTH.
My unadjusted pedal, which did not allow ANY free-play in the clutch and made it so extreme that the clutch would only work when it was partially depressed and it would not even shift if the clutch was fully depressed, then (at least I reason) wore the poor new bearing out in the two days (and about 350-450 miles) it took me to locate the problem of the clutch not working when fully depressed. Now the damn sound is back.
Just a possibility, so you might want to call the dealer to make sure they did in fact change out the release bearing at the same time. I dont think that this could be the cause of any of the other symptoms though. HTH.
mine just had to have the release bearing replaced, so my tech replace the whole clutch assembly, bearings, everything!!! brand new itr clutch with 50 miles so far... mine was making a sqeaking nise until you slightly pressed the clutch pedal then it would stop. now she is as good as new and no more noises!!!! i should buy my honda tech a
.
[Modified by ITR764, 11:46 AM 12/20/2001]
. [Modified by ITR764, 11:46 AM 12/20/2001]
Floyd-did they replace the release bearing with the clutch? If they did not, that could be causing the problems you are hearing with the release bearing. When I replaced my clutch (at 101,498 miles, to satisfy the original post) I also replaced my release bearing, and the process of doing this this annoying rattling sound (very similar to the sound, but amplified ans sped up, of a worn-out release bearing when it is turned by hand) that was constant but only audiable when the car was in neutral, and went away shortly after the clutch was depressed, much to my satisfaction and relief.
My unadjusted pedal, which did not allow ANY free-play in the clutch and made it so extreme that the clutch would only work when it was partially depressed and it would not even shift if the clutch was fully depressed, then (at least I reason) wore the poor new bearing out in the two days (and about 350-450 miles) it took me to locate the problem of the clutch not working when fully depressed. Now the damn sound is back.
Just a possibility, so you might want to call the dealer to make sure they did in fact change out the release bearing at the same time. I dont think that this could be the cause of any of the other symptoms though. HTH.
My unadjusted pedal, which did not allow ANY free-play in the clutch and made it so extreme that the clutch would only work when it was partially depressed and it would not even shift if the clutch was fully depressed, then (at least I reason) wore the poor new bearing out in the two days (and about 350-450 miles) it took me to locate the problem of the clutch not working when fully depressed. Now the damn sound is back.
Just a possibility, so you might want to call the dealer to make sure they did in fact change out the release bearing at the same time. I dont think that this could be the cause of any of the other symptoms though. HTH.
The vibration also feels stronger at the top of the pedal and goes away by the time my foot reaches the floor. If it were the release bearing, I would think the vibration would stay constant as the fork is applying pressure to the bearing the entire time. However, if a bearing was bad on the input shaft of the transmission, when the clutch is disengaged, the input shaft would slow down, and the noise would go away, and when the clutch pedal is released, the input shaft would spin up again and the noise would come back.
Am I correct on these assumptions? I really have never looked inside a tranny, but I think this is how it works...
On a normal clutch, should there be any vibration in the pedal at all?
Mine was replaced under warranty with a little less that 16,000 miles. I've been on the new clutch for 1,000 miles and occassionally, I have this low pitch clicking when the clutch initially engages. This usually happens when I'm engaging 1st gear. The tech that worked on my car said that the one of the springs on the clutch was broken.
Just a point to ponder---
According to Mike K, the clutch for the USDM 97-98 came from Japan and 00-01 comes from Ohio. hmmmmm....
[Modified by CPR, 11:57 AM 12/20/2001]
Just a point to ponder---
According to Mike K, the clutch for the USDM 97-98 came from Japan and 00-01 comes from Ohio. hmmmmm....
[Modified by CPR, 11:57 AM 12/20/2001]
On a normal clutch, should there be any vibration in the pedal at all?
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