Here's how the story goes, my car which has about 120 k miles (and running very strong) was leaking from the oem exhaust manifold/gasket. I thought, since I'm going to need to replace the gasket, I might as well swap on headers while I'm at it. So I went cheap and decided to go w/ Dc Sports 4-1 Ceramic headers. The first thing that I notice after taking off my heat shield is the leak is even more concentrated around the very left bolt.



(disregard the other circled bolts.)

When I get my ratchet to take the bolt off, it's LOOSE. WTF? Ok, whatever, this pos exhaust manifold is coming off anyways. Somehow during the install (or removal) of the headers, me and my friend must've gotten uncoordinated and torqued the bolt enough to strip the thread on the inside of the block. Now, I have a piece of the bolt (probably 2/7th's) of the end of the bolt inside the block which I can't remove. Any advice on how to get this out? I don't want to use a drill bit because I might screw up the threads and that'll be even worse. I suppose I have to take it in to a shop now... Anyone experienced on this?

(Note, the extreme ends of both sides have a bolt + nut to hold the header in place)

I also couldn't step on the gas yet with my new headers, which is driving me CRAZY- even with very conservative driving home (2.5-3.5k) there was lots of leakage, traveling about 4 miles.

 

go to kragen and tell them u need the tool called "Easy-out" to take the remaining bolt out. All you need to do is drill a small hole in the center of the broken bolt, tap the "easy out" in tight and slowly turn it counter-clockwise with a wrench to remove it.

http://www.brokentap.com/easy-outs.html

if u dont understand all that ^^ dont worry, ill be back later to explain more when im sober.

 

Haha.. no I know what you mean. I 'm looking past that option because there isn't enough clearance to safely access the bolt, and drilling is way too risky as the thread inside can be destroyed. Those types of removal are perfect for bolts/threads easily accessible, but consideringthe passenger side radiator fan and ac lines will be in the way, this will turn out to be quite a hassle. Thanks for advice though.

 

i actually did this to a 5vz tacoma v6 engine alternator bracket, which located about the lenght of a coke can from the "inner-wheel-frame". I had to use a 90degree bent, attached to that "e-z out" and drill it with a handgun. Then, i used a "left-hand-drill" to take it out.

 

use a heil coil set thats made for a 12mm by what ever the bolt is 12x 1.25 or1.75 not really sure. u can get one at any parts store it has directions on the back

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by e629943 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I 'm looking past that option because there isn't enough clearance to safely access the bolt, and drilling is way too risky as the thread inside can be destroyed. </TD></TR></TABLE>

if you're not comfortable using easy-out tools, don't do it..... but then again your two other options are A) leave it like it is or B) disassmble everything on the engine and take just the disassembled head to a machine shop

 

just incase anybody doesn't know what a heil coil is. and if you use one put a drop of loctight on the treads befor you screw them in

http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html

 

Thanks for the input guys.
I just realized that the gs-r motor is supposed to have two bolts, that can't be removed in the head like this:


WTF? I'm getting worried now that there might not even be thread inside the hole, even if I do remove the stripped bolt stuck inside.

-That is probably not the case though, right? Because I would assume honda simply first threaded the hole, then inserted a bolt? But then again, how would the bolt stay in place when the header/exhaust manifold is removed?