Installing Koni shocks on rsx
OK these darn things and my tein s techs have been waiting long enough in the closet. My buddy, the smarter of the two, and I are tacklin it. He's done a few cars so he knows what he is doin. I know i have to cut the stock strut assembly in the front to fit the koni in. Has anyone done this already? Anything i should know before i start? Anyone know where i can find a writeup on how to do this? Anything at all would be a great help. Thanks in advance guys.
there is a decent article on k-series.com.
mark the upper spring hat, lower perch, and upper mount with white out so you know how to align these parts when you reassemble.
find the center of the bottom of the strut body, mark it, center punch it, drill it with a small drill bit. use the strut rod to pump the oil out the little hole.
open that hole to the correct size (15/32 or 1/2") drill bit).
i used a monster pipe cutter to scribe the circumference of the strut body, then finished the job with a hack saw. i cut mine long, as a saftey feature. measure the length of the koni from the top of the flares (nubs) to the bottom of the boss. measure the strut body from the bottom to the top of the piston tube (tape measure fits through the holes in the lower perch). measure 3x, cut 1x. if you cut it right, the flares on the koni will *just* be covered by the strut body. the allen cap bolts supplied with konis are to be used to draw the konis down into the strut body, i left my strut bodies long and used a hydraulic press to fit the konis in it. took me about an hour for both fronts.
i STRONGLY recommend GENTLY disassembly of the thrust bearing to check for contaminants and re-lubricate (synthetic lube) before reassembly of the strut assembly.
mark the upper spring hat, lower perch, and upper mount with white out so you know how to align these parts when you reassemble.
find the center of the bottom of the strut body, mark it, center punch it, drill it with a small drill bit. use the strut rod to pump the oil out the little hole.
open that hole to the correct size (15/32 or 1/2") drill bit).
i used a monster pipe cutter to scribe the circumference of the strut body, then finished the job with a hack saw. i cut mine long, as a saftey feature. measure the length of the koni from the top of the flares (nubs) to the bottom of the boss. measure the strut body from the bottom to the top of the piston tube (tape measure fits through the holes in the lower perch). measure 3x, cut 1x. if you cut it right, the flares on the koni will *just* be covered by the strut body. the allen cap bolts supplied with konis are to be used to draw the konis down into the strut body, i left my strut bodies long and used a hydraulic press to fit the konis in it. took me about an hour for both fronts.
i STRONGLY recommend GENTLY disassembly of the thrust bearing to check for contaminants and re-lubricate (synthetic lube) before reassembly of the strut assembly.
Cool, thanks steve. I was hoping you would chime in. Must have been like July i bought these from you and im still laggin
Ya i noticed the write-up on k-series.com. I wasnt sure though if the write-up for the ep would apply to me cause i know the shocks are different, hense why you sold em. This seems good enough though; thanks again for the replys.
Ya i noticed the write-up on k-series.com. I wasnt sure though if the write-up for the ep would apply to me cause i know the shocks are different, hense why you sold em. This seems good enough though; thanks again for the replys.
the differences between the early ep3 and the dc5 is the diameter of the strut body and the bore of the holes on the knuckle bracket ... on the front, anyway. the proceedure is the exact same.
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