First to introduce myself since this is my first post. HI! I'm Crystal! lol

Anywho, my car won't start as the title says. Friday morning, I started the car up, and took someone to work came home the car was fine. About 6 hours later, I got in the car to go to work and it started up but weakly then before I was even able to push the accelerator it went right back out again. After that I just haven't been able to get it to start at all. I've tried it every day since Friday (its Monday now) and it still won't start. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank but doesn't. Everytime I try to start it up, I smell gas inside the car. I smell it after the first time I try to start it when I have to door open.

Fuel Pump. My dad keeps telling me that its the fuel pump but just before I turn to START III I can slightly hear a very low humm that stays on for like 4 seconds then stops. I'm assuming thats the fuel pump which means its working right?

Main relay. I don't know much about the main relay at all but I do know where its located from checking my fuses today to see if the one to my fuel pump maybe bad just before realizing that the pump still humms before I put it into START III to crank it up.

History. This isn't the first time this car has done this. Usually though I can get it to start right up either minutes later and once I had to have to car towed to my house one night and the next day it started right up. Since I got the timing belt and water pump changed about a month ago it won't start up the first time I try but then the second time I try it weakly starts up and shakes. I apply the gas a few times and the shakes go away and it idles kinda high up until I put it into drive. Once I turn around and leave out of my apartments parking lot and make that first turn onto the road, it kinda stalls like it doesn't wanna go, sorta like I'm out of gas and it jerks a little then it lurks forward. Lately too it idles so low when I come to a light or something that I'm afraid that its gonna shut off on me and it shakes a little like I'm almost out of gas or something.

I dunno, can someone tell me whats wrong with my car? And about how much get the main relay would cost?

 

help, someone...

 

main relay is probably going bad

 

Well I just went out and listened for the 2 clicks from the main fuel relay, the one before the fuel pump primes and then the one after it primes and I heard both clicks so I guess that rules out the main relay. Could it be that my compression is too low? My dad says that its turning to fast and strong for it to be that. Would my fuel pump still make that humming sound if its not doing what it should? Could it be that there's a lot of dirt and stuff in my filter and it needs replacing? Could it be my air filter needs to be replaced? I dunno, someone please help...

 

I couldn't figure out for sure whether your starter is cranking the engine??

If the starter isn't cranking the engine, then it's not the main relay.
Bad battery? Have it load-tested.
Loose/corroded/dirty battery cables or ground cable?
Bad starter? Hit it with a broomstick to see if that makes it work.

Hearing the fuel pump run for a couple seconds is good. That means your fuel pump is OK, usually means the main relay is OK too.

 

I don't think its the starter, the starter got replaced right before I bought the car about 3.5 months ago. I've been told that it could be the distributor though. Does that what it sound like it could be?

 

alright a few questions:

When it studders:
is the O.D. working showing how fast you are going?

If it has a Tac. is that showing the RPM's?

Did you try pulling the ECM codes?

After pulling the codes, if you did that, did you clear the ECM?

After the Water Pump and all was replaced did they retime the engine?

You said you had the water pump done a month ago, I would have them re-do the
timing or have you dad call them and ask them what they did?

Did it do this before or just after you had the water pump replaced? Just re-read your posting. Seeing as you have had this issue more so after the water pump was done, I would have them warranty their work and have them reset the timing like they should have in the first place.

Seems like they might not have gotten the adjuster right or left the balance shaft belt loose.


Also I would check all your air lines and hoses. Make sure they are in line and to the right spots. Pulling up web site that will give you a nice break down of the parts and all.

http://accordinglydone.com/data/


http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
this site will give you a bread down of the parts been rated pretty high by most honda owners.


I hope these help

good luck

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LilMissCrystal81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank but doesn't. Everytime I try to start it up, I smell gas inside the car. I smell it after the first time I try to start it when I have to door open.

I dunno, can someone tell me whats wrong with my car? And about how much get the main relay would cost? </TD></TR></TABLE>

my relay was 84 dollars for me it was easy to put in, but it seems it works fine from what i read. im thinking you have a fuel line leak somewhere and its proventing from starting.. but thats my 5 cents.

meight wanna look into the fuel line

 

bump

 

I think I am having a similar problem. I just put in my first chip. After many attempts runing in limp mode I finaly got it to work. Drove it for a minute or two with a very rough idle. Now I have a solid CEL, the car won't start (stock ECU or chipped) and I don't hear the fuel pump turning on. At first I though it was fouled plugs from running rich and all the starts in limp. Indeed the plugs were fouled, I replaced them and reset the ECU... still solid CEL and no start.

 

have to be a little more descriptive cause saying my car doesnt start has a million reasons why. but from what you said:
fuel pump - ok
main relay - ok
does the car crank? (make sure your battery is fully charged before testing)

 

might by the fuel pump relay, pain to get to under the dash, but a cheap part to check. My car did the same last summer, it would start, I would get somewhere, then a few hours later it wouldn't start. I had to leave my car many places because I didn't know what was wrong. I replaced the relay and have never had a problem with it since, until now, now I don't know what is wrongwith it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johcipa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... and I don't hear the fuel pump turning on...</TD></TR></TABLE>If the fuel pump doesn't run for 2 seconds, it might be the main relay. (Or maybe the pump itself.)

 

ok get a main relay then put that in. And try to crank it but instend off letting the key go hold it one spot back its the spot if the car was running hold it there and it will run like just trun it just a little and hold it it should run

 

alright a few questions:

When it studders:
is the O.D. working showing how fast you are going?

<FONT COLOR="DarkRed">Yes, it normally does.</FONT>

If it has a Tac. is that showing the RPM's?

<FONT COLOR="DarkRed">Yes, and my car normally idles reeeeally low almost to the point that its about to shut off and the oil pressure light flickers</FONT>

Did you try pulling the ECM codes?

<FONT COLOR="DarkRed">No I haven't b/c I thought that you only got codes when the CEL comes on.</FONT>

After pulling the codes, if you did that, did you clear the ECM?

After the Water Pump and all was replaced did they retime the engine?

<FONT COLOR="DarkRed">Yes, I watched the dude as he was doing my timing and water pump. The problem is, is that this guy is 3 hours away in my parents town and my car won't start for me to get it there.</FONT>

You said you had the water pump done a month ago, I would have them re-do the
timing or have you dad call them and ask them what they did?

<FONT COLOR="DarkRed">I don't know much about timing the engine but when I talked to him about it he said that he did and that he'd check it for me if I needed him to.</FONT>

Did it do this before or just after you had the water pump replaced? Just re-read your posting. Seeing as you have had this issue more so after the water pump was done, I would have them warranty their work and have them reset the timing like they should have in the first place.

<FONT COLOR="DarkRed">It did it before I got the timing belt and water pump done. I drove it to Midas once and couldn't get it to start up again once I got there. I ended up leaving it there b/c they were about to close. The next day the mechanic told me that it started right up so he just performed a tune up on it and after that it was ok right up until I was about to drive home to get the timing and all done I started having trouble getting it to start again. I once had to have it towed to my house from a restuarant b/c it just wouldn't start. The next morning it started right up w/ no hesitation. After I got the WP and TB done it was ok until I drove it all the way back to Raleigh, that's when the weak starting started and the hesitations and shaking after I got it started, started. I never smelled gas coming from the car until now that it won't start at all.</FONT>

Seems like they might not have gotten the adjuster right or left the balance shaft belt loose.

<FONT COLOR="DarkRed">I didn't change out the balance shaft belt, I should have though.</FONT>


Also I would check all your air lines and hoses. Make sure they are in line and to the right spots. Pulling up web site that will give you a nice break down of the parts and all.

<FONT COLOR="DarkRed">I think I may have some sort of vacuum leak. When I drove the car to my parents to the the timing done, when I pulled into their drive way it would rev up and down on its on.</FONT>

http://accordinglydone.com/data/


http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/
this site will give you a bread down of the parts been rated pretty high by most honda owners.


I hope these help

good luck

It cranks but doesn't start at all. Sometimes it sounds like its about to catch and start but doesn't. Then afterwards is when I smell gas. Its not a strong smell of gas but I smell it. It could be my fuel line or something, it doesn't leak gas or at least I don't see anything on the ground under my car. It also has almost a full tank of mid-grade gas. I had just gotten gas the night before it stopped starting. I mean it worked perfectly that morning then hours later (It was cool outside all day) it started up briefly and weakly and went right back off and I haven't been able to get it started since. Its been chillin in the same spot since Friday. I don't know but I know the main relay and fuel pump are doing what it should. I hope it turns out to be something small b/c I can't afford much else. I think I'm going to try and call a mobile mechanic to come out to keep from towing it. Thanks for all suggestions, keep them coming, I'm taking in everything.

 

Ok this sheads some light on this.

The mechanic should have replace the balancer shaft belt also as they have to pull that out of the way first to get the timing belt off. Its like if you were going to change the ALT/AC belt, you have to pull the PS belt out of the way first.

Second, are you getting a strong oder of gas when you try to crank it? or is it just a light smell? Inside the car or when you steep out?

I would check the Fuel Pressure Regulator. It might be the FPR or the TPS.

Its nice to see women who understand auto talk and are not afraid to work on their own stuff and/or get greesy. More power to those who do.

So check your MAP (air line to it and elec. connection), MAFS, TPS, FPR, and check the air tube from filter to Intake. Look in the intake and see if its really loaded up with junk.

The ignitor might be bad also.

That is the bad thing about being over 2800 miles away. Hard to say meet at the local coffee shop or college hang out and I can look it over for you.

Best wishes from MN and good luck

 

bump

Any updates on this?

 

I had a similar problem (on an 89 accord). The car would sometimes not start (by that I mean, the starter motor would not turn) . It turned out to be the key switch assy on the steering column. They are notoriously bad. cost around $70 for a new switch assy.

As for the shakey engine, it could be unrelated and could be a number of things.

If it always shakes when it runs, it could be the timing belt was not installed correctly. If it runs fine sometimes, and shakes other times, it is a component going bad.




Modified by gcohen2 at 9:25 AM 10/25/2004

 

Hey, sorry it took me so long to get back to you all, I've been away...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hawkmgc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok this sheads some light on this.

The mechanic should have replace the balancer shaft belt also as they have to pull that out of the way first to get the timing belt off. Its like if you were going to change the ALT/AC belt, you have to pull the PS belt out of the way first.

Second, are you getting a strong oder of gas when you try to crank it? or is it just a light smell? Inside the car or when you steep out?

<FONT COLOR="Blue">Its not a very strong odor of gas but I can definitely smell in now more so than before now that some time has passed and I've tried starting it a few more times since it first stopped starting. I'm assuming I'm making the problem worse so I don't mess w/ it anymore. Normally when I try I have the driver side door open so I'm not sure if the smell is coming from the inside of the car or the outside. I think it may be coming inside the car.</FONT>

I would check the Fuel Pressure Regulator. It might be the FPR or the TPS.

<FONT COLOR="Blue">I'm not sure of what the TPS is or how to check the FPR. </FONT>

Its nice to see women who understand auto talk and are not afraid to work on their own stuff and/or get greesy. More power to those who do.

<FONT COLOR="Blue">Thank you, hun... </FONT>

So check your MAP (air line to it and elec. connection), MAFS, TPS, FPR, and check the air tube from filter to Intake. Look in the intake and see if its really loaded up with junk.

<FONT COLOR="Blue">How would I go about doing that?</FONT>

The ignitor might be bad also.

That is the bad thing about being over 2800 miles away. Hard to say meet at the local coffee shop or college hang out and I can look it over for you.

<FONT COLOR="Blue">I thank you so much anyways, even though you are 2800 miles away, thus far you have given me a lot to think about and that seriously helps.</FONT>

Best wishes from MN and good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>

gcohen2, if its the key assembly thing, would I still be able to get the engine to turn?

 

Here's the throttle body...

#21 is the MAP, manifold absolute pressure sensor.
#22 is the IAT, intake air temperature sensor
The TPS is the throttle position sensor, it doesn't have it's own number. Look for the throttle cable drum, that turns a shaft; the TPS is on the other end of that shaft, on the firewall side of the throttle body...

At this point, you're looking for something unplugged.

Here's the intake manifold & fuel rail.

#9 is the FPR, fuel pressure regulator. It's got a small vacuum hose on top & a larger fuel hose on the bottom. Pull off the small vacuum hose, especially after you've tried to start. If there's any gasoline in that hose, the FPR is bad. (The real way to test the FPR is to measure the fuel pressure.)

I think any of this stuff would make the engine run badly, but probably wouldn't prevent it from starting. Or at least coughing sputtering & sounding like it's trying to start.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LilMissCrystal81 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">gcohen2, if its the key assembly thing, would I still be able to get the engine to turn?</TD></TR></TABLE>The ignition switch has to do a couple of things... It has to turn on power for the fuel injection & spark plugs, then it has to keep that circuit turned on while it ALSO turns on the starter motor. I think it's possible for either one of these circuits to get flaky. So gcohen2's switch broke for the starter circuit, maybe yours is flaky for the other circuits?

Try & see where you smell gas. If it's from the tailpipe, that might be OK. It means your injectors are firing. That's important to know, it narrows down the search for what's wrong.

 

A guy came and looked at my car yesterday and he told me that I have a blown head gasket and thats probably why my car isn't starting. We tried starting it up a bunch of times yesterday w/ and w/o starter fluid and he checked for spark and all that stuff and he checked the distributor and all that checked out ok. When he took the cap off the radiator and tried starting the car, steam came out of the radiator just from trying to start the car and it was making bubbling sounds. He says that maybe the compression is too low for the car to start b/c all that pressure is coming up thru the radiator instead of where its supposed to go. I kinda knew that my head gasket was going but I didn't know it was that bad. There isn't much water mixed in my oil b/c the oil on my dipstick was fine but there was a milky mix under the oil cap from the valve cover. Could he be right? He offered to change my head gasket for $250 if I bought the head set, he said he'd also check my timing. What should I do? Could this blown head gasket thing be the reason my car was idling so low and running ruff too?

Thank you, JimBlake, I'm gonna check w/ that stuff.

 

if it is MILKY under the oil cap, then yea they are right. 250 for the job, that is normal price at any good shop. I would check him out before letting him tickle my WHIP.
You want to make sure that its a good mechanic that is doing this, b/c its really easy to get an air pocket stuck and then you are doing the job again in about 2 mths.
learned that on a 86 I had that the job was done by a shaddy before I bought it. Ended up redoing all the sho work they had done before I bought it. What a joke of a wrench that person was.
But if you have to buy the head set yourself let know even if by email or IM. I can hook you up with one of my suppliers that is really really good with prices on gasket sets, or single gaskets even.
Too bad you are too far of a shout for me. As I am rebuilding my honda right now. And taking good before durring and will have after pics too.

 

Nah, I'm no longer getting him to do it b/c he said he'd call me back after we talked again and never did twice this weekend so I think I'd rather take it to one of those good shops and have it done, at least if I take it to one of them and they leave an air pocket in there I'm guaranteed to have it repaired w/o have to dish out even more money. I'm definitely interested in your supplier and keep me informed on how your car is going.

 

Hey, after saving for a month, I was finally able to get my car fixed. I got the head gasket replaced and also the mechanic told me that my valves were bent and thats the reason the car wouldn't start. I remember a while back this mechanic at home told me that he'd tighten my valves whenever I came back down again but I never did get a chance to let him do it. Anywho all of that cost me $855 which is not bad at all. Now the car runs wonderfully, has a whole lot more power, accelerates wonderfully... except the exhaust manifold leak which I was told is only the gasket and its still idling a little low and has been doing so since I got the timing belt and water pump done about 2 months ago. What could be causing the low idle?

 

Is it idling aroung 750 rpm's or lower?