EF Hatch W/Boosted LS Roll Call/Discussion
Open discussion, boosting an LS motor in an EF this winter and wanted to get everyone's thoughts, opinions, past experiences, etc.. Whats your setup, how much power are you making, 1/4 mile times, what you would and wouldnt do again, etc..
Thanks in advance for the help!
Thanks in advance for the help!
make a custom turbo kit, you'll dyno at around 300whp, you'll run 12 easely, get hondata right away.
If you do a search you will find countless threads on stock ls's, dyno numbers, track times everything..
If you do a search you will find countless threads on stock ls's, dyno numbers, track times everything..
Sigh. How fast was your LS/T 4th gen?
I had a 91 CRX HF (RIP) with a turbocharged B18B in it.
Setup:
97 B18B
Toda Chromoly Flywheel
Action 6MD Clutch
91 Integra Tranny
Stock Teg axles
90 Ex front 10.2" brakes
91 teg rear brakes
GCs, AGX, ST Rear sway
SSAC Manifold gen2, braced and rewelded
Saab 50trim T3 .48/.63AR
3" downpipe
3" exhaust, no resonator or cat
3" in / 4" out Apexi N1 fartcan
Starion IC
1G DSM BOV
1G DSM 450cc injectors
Chipped PM6 w/ boost code I wrote.
I loved this car. I loved this turbo setup. Spool was instantaneous. Ran 7-10psi. Car was really fun to drive. Never made it to a dyno, but guess 200-220whp on 7psi based on what it would hang with. Hung with a R32 skyline pushing 17psi on the highway. Obliterated several other low boost cars round town.
Traction was a HUGE problem. Some of it was my jank *** sping rates on the GCs. Some of it was my minorly fubared crossmember. Most of it was not being able to put that much power down in a light FWD car. I would almost urge you to get a bigger turbo that will have slightly more lag because it will help the car grab pavement a lot better. I also probably could have used a much stickier set of tires. Bottom line was that from a 25mph roll in 3rd gear, the tires would break loose around 4200rpm when the head really started flowing on 7psi of boost.
Fitment of an intercooler was a bitch, even one as small as the starion. Bumper support was cut away and a tubular piece fabricated that bolted to the tow hooks. Downpipe fitment wasn't so bad, just took a while to get angles right. The Kteller 3" exhaust was a nice piece, although I rearranged the piping slightly...
Hondata is a great tool, but I'd really suggest checking out the DIY OBD0 stuff before making the OBD1 conversion. The tools are unquestionably less mature and harder to use, but you can get good results if you're willing to use your brain instead of your pocketbook.
Hope that helps,
-Dave
I had a 91 CRX HF (RIP) with a turbocharged B18B in it.
Setup:
97 B18B
Toda Chromoly Flywheel
Action 6MD Clutch
91 Integra Tranny
Stock Teg axles
90 Ex front 10.2" brakes
91 teg rear brakes
GCs, AGX, ST Rear sway
SSAC Manifold gen2, braced and rewelded
Saab 50trim T3 .48/.63AR
3" downpipe
3" exhaust, no resonator or cat
3" in / 4" out Apexi N1 fartcan
Starion IC
1G DSM BOV
1G DSM 450cc injectors
Chipped PM6 w/ boost code I wrote.
I loved this car. I loved this turbo setup. Spool was instantaneous. Ran 7-10psi. Car was really fun to drive. Never made it to a dyno, but guess 200-220whp on 7psi based on what it would hang with. Hung with a R32 skyline pushing 17psi on the highway. Obliterated several other low boost cars round town.
Traction was a HUGE problem. Some of it was my jank *** sping rates on the GCs. Some of it was my minorly fubared crossmember. Most of it was not being able to put that much power down in a light FWD car. I would almost urge you to get a bigger turbo that will have slightly more lag because it will help the car grab pavement a lot better. I also probably could have used a much stickier set of tires. Bottom line was that from a 25mph roll in 3rd gear, the tires would break loose around 4200rpm when the head really started flowing on 7psi of boost.
Fitment of an intercooler was a bitch, even one as small as the starion. Bumper support was cut away and a tubular piece fabricated that bolted to the tow hooks. Downpipe fitment wasn't so bad, just took a while to get angles right. The Kteller 3" exhaust was a nice piece, although I rearranged the piping slightly...

Hondata is a great tool, but I'd really suggest checking out the DIY OBD0 stuff before making the OBD1 conversion. The tools are unquestionably less mature and harder to use, but you can get good results if you're willing to use your brain instead of your pocketbook.
Hope that helps,
-Dave
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Ok, I have a question for all the ef's with boosted b-series engines, mostly about turbo fitment. Did you have to custom make all your ic piping or did you have someone make them? What about the downpipe, I heard it won't clear the stock crossmember?
Also, I see the car in the link is running a full radiator, I thought the turbo would be in the way. Also, I've seen several ef's that have completely removed the rad support/hood latch to make room for the turbo, is this necessary?
I'm planning on boosting my b18a crx this winter, but I'm a little nervous about everything fitting in the engine bay
Also, I see the car in the link is running a full radiator, I thought the turbo would be in the way. Also, I've seen several ef's that have completely removed the rad support/hood latch to make room for the turbo, is this necessary?
I'm planning on boosting my b18a crx this winter, but I'm a little nervous about everything fitting in the engine bay
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nevin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I fit a b18a, lovefab sst, sc61 E housing, 3 inch dp and jimfabs. Didn't even have to bust out the hammer
</TD></TR></TABLE>
So did you make your own ic piping? Also, did your downpipe clear the front crossmember? What radiator are you using?
Sorry for all the questions, thanks.
</TD></TR></TABLE>So did you make your own ic piping? Also, did your downpipe clear the front crossmember? What radiator are you using?
Sorry for all the questions, thanks.
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