Would my car benefit (more HP) from getting the Skunk race ECU?
I might buy a 2001 GSR ECU and then use that as a core exchange for a race ECU.
How do I know the ECU came off a GSR?


[Modified by Mugenblkgsr2000, 2:10 AM 12/18/2001]

 

yeah w/ a help of a fuel controller...tuning is the key in making hp

 

It should have a p72 in its part number.

 

Thanks trust. I just found out that a chipped ECU will leave my secondary butterfly open all the time. So I will lose midrange power.

I want more upgrades but I'm not sure what to do next. I don't want the skunk intake manifold (too much trouble) or larger t/b (didn't work and my cel light came on).

Any suggestions.




[Modified by Mugenblkgsr2000, 2:17 AM 12/18/2001]

 

If you truly want a fast car, you're gonna have to deal with "too much trouble" sooner or later.

 

Skunk Manifold (Not hard to do) and a VAFC And some dyno tuning.
Also while your at it maybe bore out your TB to 64mm and Taper to 70mm

 

Mike I had a JG throttle body(64mm) before and the CEL light came on. The car was running erractically, so i took it back to the shop and got my stock throttle body back . Do you know why this happened?

The skunk manifold will make me lose midrange power. I went to ericks racing and he has a 10 sec N/A Civic and he uses a GSR engine with the stock intake manifold.


[Modified by Mugenblkgsr2000, 4:08 AM 12/18/2001]

 

IMd you

 

well said, your gonna have to get into some trouble for a fast car

 

Yes Erick's racing uses a GSR intake manifold. But, the secondary butterflies were removed completely and its ported to hell!. There is no way you can use an intake manifold (port wise) like they use on the street its all for mid-high end power (drag racing). Just use a Skunk2/JG intake manifold and get one of Ericks 68mm TB's. Only get the 70mm if your going larger displacement (this is what Javier @ Ericks told me). I bought the 70mm TB and its a work of art, havent bolted it on yet, but they will match your skunk2 or GSR manifold and gasket to fit their TB ($20). Also, just get some headwork, get your GSR or skunk2 IM port matched to the head and slight clean up in the runners and you will be fine. Not at all complicated.

 

Just a fyi, when you try to port a skunk intake maniflod to accept a 70mm tbody you will end up cutting into the iac valve bolt holes that come through the back of the manifold. Also i'm not sure if you can even go 70 mm because mine was ported to 68 and it almost doesn't leave enough gasket sealing area between the iac port on the tbody flange side.

 

What kind of "bit" can you use on the grinder to port your manifolds? And where to find them.
Thanx.

 

Mugen,

Did you have a problem with your idle ? Casue I got a JG TB..and the idle was way to high.

The problem was they didn't seal the TB plate good enough...which casue the idle to be erratic...Even with the idle screw completely closed.
I had to use a little liquid gasket to patch the leaks...other than that no problems..

 

there goes cool *** tom again, posting pics and spreading knowledge. i see more of you on this board than i do in person...i guess you're lucky that way! keep spittin knowledge, and i'll keep readin bro!
--justin

 

i had portflow port matched mines to a 70mm on the skunk2 manifold it works fine, you don't need to use a gasket, all i used was just silicone around it.......no leaks nothing

 

Hey AllMotor, did you get some RnR's?

 

Allmotor, how small is the divider between the iac port and the tbody port on yours? Are all the skunks different cause as you can see on the pic of mine at 68 the divider is almost gone? Did you happen to take any pics of yours?

 

Thanks Trust. Are there any t/b I can get where I don't have to use sealant?
What about RC?

 

Not that I know of except for maybe the direct factory replacements, like Spoon, Holley, and BBK.