i will be doing a allmotor ls build. would i benifit from a gsr or type r oil pump and water pump even though i wont be doing vtec? where can i find out what the best compression i need to run with crower 404's? Thanks in advance

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by erebunicrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will be doing a allmotor ls build. would i benifit from a gsr or type r oil pump and water pump even though i wont be doing vtec? where can i find out what the best compression i need to run with crower 404's? Thanks in advance</TD></TR></TABLE>

I am using a GSR oil pump on my setup!

And I believe Crower recommends at least 10.5:1 CR for the 404's!

 

I WOULD RECOMMEND REPLACING THE OIL AND WATER PUMPS TO TYPE R'S
THEY DONT COST MUCH AT ALL FOR NEW ONES FROM IL4 OR JHPUSA.COM
FROM MY EXPERIENCE IF YOU ARE GOING TO BE REVVING UP HIGH WITH BIGGER CAMS YOU GOING TO NEED BETTER OIL PRESSURE. AND THE LS ONE AINT GOING TO KEEP UP.
AND YOU END UP SPININIG A ROD BEARING LIKE MY ***.
*** THE GSR PUMPS ITS ONLY A FEW DOLLARS FOR A NEW ITR ONES.

 

but your running vtec. using a ls head will i stilll keep the ls timing belt if i go with itr water and oil pumps?


Modified by erebunicrx at 10:06 PM 10/16/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC-2.0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I WOULD RECOMMEND REPLACING THE OIL AND WATER PUMPS TO TYPE R'S
THEY DONT COST MUCH AT ALL FOR NEW ONES FROM IL4 OR JHPUSA.COM
FROM MY EXPERIENCE IF YOU ARE GOING TO BE REVVING UP HIGH WITH BIGGER CAMS YOU GOING TO NEED BETTER OIL PRESSURE. AND THE LS ONE AINT GOING TO KEEP UP.
AND YOU END UP SPININIG A ROD BEARING LIKE MY ***.
*** THE GSR PUMPS ITS ONLY A FEW DOLLARS FOR A NEW ITR ONES.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please stop spreading misinformation. It's ridiculous how many people think GSR and ITR water pumps and oil pumps are different. Same part number!!!

It's even more ridiculous when people think the LS's have different oil pumps from the ITR/GSR. They are the same as well!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The newer P72/OBDII Oil Pump is updated so it flows better than the PR3/OBDI Oil Pumps. The P72/OBDII Oil Pumps have provisions to mount a crankshaft fluctuation sensor (CKF Sensor). It is a common myth amongst many that there is a specific ITR Oil Pump. In reality all 1996 and up Integra (OBDII) shares the same part numbers for their oil pumps. The OBDII Oil Pumps will fit on OBDI engines if you change out the lower timing belt cover to the OBDII one or just hack it to fit with a dremel. Your choice. That is all I can come up with for now. They physically will interchange with one another.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Sheesh.

And turn your caps lock button off for christ sakes and speak english.

 

I believe the only difference in the pre '96 oil pumps, vtec vs. non vtec, is the pressure relief spring.

 

i was going to use a vtec oil pump on my ls buildup... causeim running pr3's and a proted head w/cams

 

All yhe oil pumps are now the same, but if you use a GSR/"R" waterpump, that turns slower, you will have to use a GSR/ "R" timing belt (1 more tooth). If you need to replace all that stuff just ask for a "R" oil, water pump and belt.

 

cheap setup: p30 pistons, crower 404's, pnp head. U should b close 2 170whp 2 the wheels, and ur torque should b around 135tq, this is with tunning of course.

 

well, i dont think im going to do a cheap build. i emailed import builders about a head and pistons. what would be the difference between wiseco 11.3:1 and p30, as far as hp?(are they lighter, forged?)

 

i alawys try 2 save money, but they yield around the same compression ration, the only time forged internals are use is with forced induction or a bored motor anyways. Why spend $500 on pistons, when u can get something simeler 4 like $80 buks. If this is a allmotor build then save ur big $$$$ 4 ur head build up. A goo pnp, crower 404' with valvetrain, and a good header with lots of tuning. If insurance is what ur worried about then get arp rod bolts, p30 pistons, and get ur rotating assembly balanced and blueprinted, that way u could u also get the full potential out of the cams that make power way over the ls redline.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC-2.0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I WOULD RECOMMEND REPLACING THE OIL AND WATER PUMPS TO TYPE R'S
THEY DONT COST MUCH AT ALL FOR NEW ONES FROM IL4 OR JHPUSA.COM
FROM MY EXPERIENCE IF YOU ARE GOING TO BE REVVING UP HIGH WITH BIGGER CAMS YOU GOING TO NEED BETTER OIL PRESSURE. AND THE LS ONE AINT GOING TO KEEP UP.
AND YOU END UP SPININIG A ROD BEARING LIKE MY ***.
*** THE GSR PUMPS ITS ONLY A FEW DOLLARS FOR A NEW ITR ONES.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
turn off your caps lock man, that **** is annoying

 

Yes the oil pumps are the same. I use a vtec water pump with a GSR timing belt on my B20 nonvtec. I would run as much compression as you can on pump gas something around 12.1 will work best.

 

why run that high of a compression, is this a street motor or a race motor? If using ctr pistons, u r going 2 need 2 clay the motor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joboost13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i alawys try 2 save money, but they yield around the same compression ration, the only time forged internals are use is with forced induction or a bored motor anyways. Why spend $500 on pistons, when u can get something simeler 4 like $80 buks. If this is a allmotor build then save ur big $$$$ 4 ur head build up. A goo pnp, crower 404' with valvetrain, and a good header with lots of tuning. If insurance is what ur worried about then get arp rod bolts, p30 pistons, and get ur rotating assembly balanced and blueprinted, that way u could u also get the full potential out of the cams that make power way over the ls redline.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly!


Also I thought the OBD-1 LS oil pumps were different than the GSR oil pump! I know the GSR and ITR are the same but I thought the LS was different?

 

they r diff, they let more oil circulate trough than the ls, vtec need more oil 2 work correctly, thats why they have the better oil pump.

 

i will be buying some pistons from ib that yield abour 11.3:1 i think there ib spec. i am trying not to cut any corners and hit 190-200 whp. also i think i will send my head out to import builders too.

 

200hp is going 2 b hard on a ls and keep it streedable. Not saying that ti can not be done, if u start wit a b20 block it would b easier. Might aswell sense ur puting after market in the bottom end. U'll have alot more torque 2, i c that hitting 200 fully buit 4 the street, but a 1.8L is kind of hard 2 achieve.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joboost13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">200hp is going 2 b hard on a ls and keep it streedable. Not saying that ti can not be done, if u start wit a b20 block it would b easier. Might aswell sense ur puting after market in the bottom end. U'll have alot more torque 2, i c that hitting 200 fully buit 4 the street, but a 1.8L is kind of hard 2 achieve.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True but either of those 2 cars would be a pain in the *** to drive everyday! It can be done, however I would drive it on the street everyday IMO!


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by erebunicrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will be buying some pistons from ib that yield abour 11.3:1 i think there ib spec. i am trying not to cut any corners and hit 190-200 whp. also i think i will send my head out to import builders too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dont waste the money on IB Specs unless you are using a B20 Block! CTR Pistons is what you want in a LS!

 

I have an all motor LS with CTR's and 404's and run 93 octane. The car is very streetalbe..............I dynoed 172 whp <U>with a stock head</U>. My P&P head should be here in a few days I hope. Then I should be alot closer to 200 whp.

The LS is alot better engine than people think, and 404's are very good cams for Street/ Strip set-up. Good Luck!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcter g &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an all motor LS with CTR's and 404's and run 93 octane. The car is very streetalbe..............I dynoed 172 whp <U>with a stock head</U>. My P&P head should be here in a few days I hope. Then I should be alot closer to 200 whp.

The LS is alot better engine than people think, and 404's are very good cams for Street/ Strip set-up. Good Luck!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nice

what is your current setup?

Those times in the 1/8 are pretty good for what you have

 

that is some good numbers, did u have 2 clay the motor 2 compensate the deck hieght? Cause if not, i think the ctr's will mess wit the 404's cam lobe. Not sure though, what's ur cr? I belive it should b like 11.7:1 or around thier, that must make some sick power if u have a b16 tranny setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joboost13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that is some good numbers, did u have 2 clay the motor 2 compensate the deck hieght? Cause if not, i think the ctr's will mess wit the 404's cam lobe. Not sure though, what's ur cr? I belive it should b like 11.7:1 or around thier, that must make some sick power if u have a b16 tranny setup. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree(on the #'s and times), however the CTR's should be fine, I have heard of ppl using the 405's with CTR Pistons! You just have to clay to make sure!

 

CTR's and 404's are fine. There is alot of room for cam adj. I have around 11.7:1 CR. I still have an LS tranny. It is for sale!!!!!