well, ive got new issues on my h22 tranny. on wednesday, out of nowhere, the clutch started vibrating when i engaged it. i can feel a light rub and vibration when the clutch engages. even when i just push the pedal before it engages, i can feel a vibration and rungging on something. thought it was the throw out bearing, and i had a shop pull the tranny, replace the throw out bearing, clutch and PP. eberything in there is new now. still rubbing and vibrating. ive adjusted the rod underneath the pedal by the clutch bracket all the way in and out. its hasnt fixed it;. anyone have any similar problems or suggestions of what it may be?? any help would be greatly appreciated...

 

help please!!!!

 

Did you get your flywheel resurfaced???

 

yea that was done too.....

 

bump

 

bump bump

 

cmon now, someone has to have some sort of idea....

 

word of advice: quit bumping...especially after only 6 minutes. you will **** people off and no one will help you. so just be patient and someone will help out...

 

any ideas?

 

I had a chattering in my clutch when i engaged it and a grinding noise too. I replaced the clutch disk, presure plate, and throw out bearing. I also made sure that the shaft that the bearing sat on was very clean and greased up. This fixed all of my problems. Is it possible that the trans shop ripped you off? If you had the clutch replaced it should have fixed all problems. I would take it back to the shop and complain.

Stumped???

 

this may sound stupid as im not too sure, but what about the syncros?

 

If you have replaced everything then it is probably the transmission going out. Good luck with that.

 

hmm...try putting it in reverse as you would for first (ie. drop it pretty quick) and see what it does

reverse is not synchronized and only runs power to one of your 2 shafts inside the tranny, how hard do you shift normally? Another thing is with the car off run it through all the gears, does it seem any harder than it used to. Compare it to someone else's same gen. accord if you can. If its rough and you have to force it then its probably the synchros.

also how reputable is this place, do you know for sure that they know what the hell they're doing? Reason I ask is that if you don't tighten the pressure plate down evenly it can warp and may cause what you're experiencing. And they did put fluid back in the tranny didn't they?

For now try that out and learn how to double clutch to save what you got.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
For now try that out and learn how to double clutch to save what you got.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you kidding me? You don't need to double clutch a new transmission. That is what the syncros are for, and if you are gonna say "well it is to save what syncros he still has" then you are dumb. They will still be worn even doing that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -RedneckDave- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you kidding me? You don't need to double clutch a new transmission. That is what the syncros are for, and if you are gonna say "well it is to save what syncros he still has" then you are dumb. They will still be worn even doing that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

he never said it was a "NEW TRANSMISSION," and if I had to guess he got a little happy with his motor swap and was a little hard on the gears

and I have had my transmission apart, not sure about you...

anyways I know perfectly damn well it won't help the sychros, but it makes the car driveable and slows the wear on whatever he's got left (assuming that's the problem). On my friend's ride he fried the synchros and double clutching was the only way he could get around. I know what the **** I'm talking about on this issue! I'm not in here to argue so back the hell off!

Also man, are you sure your slave cylinder and everything is working? What if it got a little air in there and isn't fully disengaging?


Modified by Schmitey at 10:06 PM 10/19/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

he never said it was a "NEW TRANSMISSION," and if I had to guess he got a little happy with his motor swap and was a little hard on the gears

and I have had my transmission apart, not sure about you...

anyways I know perfectly damn well it won't help the sychros, but it makes the car driveable and slows the wear on whatever he's got left (assuming that's the problem). On my friend's ride he fried the synchros and double clutching was the only way he could get around. I know what the **** I'm talking about on this issue so back the hell off!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmmm you are pretty sure you know more than me. Lol. I accidently said it was new and you jump all over me. I meant to say worn but I guess you showed me. You tell me to back off. hmmmm.. you should really calm down cause this is not the way to act on this board, and you don't need to worry about me having a part on a car taken apart and rebuilt because I have done it all.

 

I guess I didn't realize you're the big dick around here. Alright man, a typo, long as we're at an understanding that we BOTH now what we're talking about. I'm trying to help the guy out, not flaunt somebody's ignorance.

 

I am not "flaunting" someones ignorance. I first off told him it was probably the transmission and then I corrected you and your statement that he should be double clutching. This is done now.

 

i sat and watched the work being done cause i dont trust shops. didnt have anyone to help me do it at home. sanded the shaft, greased it and all new parts, cause i have my old act for sale on ebay. everything done by the shop was monitored by me.

it goes into every gear just fine. the only time it grinds slightly going into gear is when i rev it up to like 7k and shift into 2nd. i havent driven the car hard in 2 years. its just a daily driver to the grocery store. not into racing or driving it hard anymore and ive put too much into it to sell.

i noticed tonite that it doesnt grind when i start it up, and drive for a bit, after about 5 minutes of driving or so, as soon as i engage the clutch, i feel it rubbing.

understand it is NOT grinding when i shift, it is grinding when i engage the clutch, even if i just barely engage it, i can feel it.

im almost thinking somehow the transmission is going out, so im already lookin for a new one to try that next.... a mechanic friend friend suggested that it could be an input shaft bearing gone south. im guessing thats inside the tranny and i would have to split the case to get to it, which would be far too much work.

 

yeah if that bearing is going out you're in real trouble. If I remember right you can only access the bearing from INSIDE the transmission case. If you have the Helms manual its really not that bad and I think you could easily do it yourself (with the help of a bearing puller). The gears and everything (not including the linkage) will stay together so you don't have to worry about messing that up (obviously take a look at your synchros and stuff while you're in there). The hardest part really is physically getting the transmission in and out, the transmission is its own unit so do with it what you want.

My reverse went out somehow and I thought I was gonna have to replace the transmission, but my dad convinced me to crack it open since I already had it removed. Sure enough I was able to fix the problem. Moral of the story...before you dish out the dough for a new/used tranny you might as well take it apart [if nothing else you can figure out how it works, which is pretty cool].

I think I'd still check out the slave cylinder and all that just in case. It would suck to buy a new tranny, install it, and then find you just had air in the line. Start with the easy, cheap, and obvious stuff first. I've torn apart oil pumps and stuff just to find out it was a sensor or various other easy stuff.




Modified by Schmitey at 3:18 PM 10/20/2004

 

ive pretty much checked all the easy and cheap stuff. master and slave cylinders are fine and were replaced about 20k miles ago. no CEL's. i really dont have time to take out the tranny cause im in the mid of law school right now. i may just keep driving it till christmas time and do it then though. you think if its that bearing, itll make it till then? i drive the car about 20 miles a week cause i ride the bike to school and for errands.

 

You can probably make it till then with that bearing but the longer a bad bearing is left in the more damage it does to the shaft.

 

very true

yeah just take your chances i guess and be glad you got a second ride...needless to say no more dropping it a 7k rpm's!

Its unfortunate that time (and money) is short for you. I can definitely relate with that. At least around here there aren't any shops that will take a look at your transmission if you remove and install it yourself (or pay your buddy to do it). That pretty much leaves you with paying a pro to do it. At most you could hang onto the old tranny and hope to salvage it if and when you can.

 

this is a longshot...but what if maybe they put the wrong type of oil in the tranny and its breaking down as it starts to warm up

I'm just trying to figure out why it only acts up as the car warms up...I'm assuming you've checked your fluid level as well? Seeing as how you checked the master and slave cylinder I'm assuming you started there first.

 

Listen, I highly doubt that its something with the transmission. Due to the fact that when the clutch pedal is not depressed the shaft into the transmission is spinning regardless of if its in gear or not. When you press the clutch that activates the arm which puts presure on the Throw out Bearing against the PP springs. This eliminates pretty much all possibilities besides the throw out bearing. Even though you have a new clutch kit, keep in mind that most of them are REFURBISHED and you could very possibly get a bad "new" throw out bearing.

My car was the same EXACT thing... No noises or vibration until the clutch heated up a little bit.