hey everyone

setup: 1990 civic SI. motor: 1997 jdm ITR motor, OBD II, ITR ecu, LoCash Jumpers, wiring conversion done semi-professionally by my dad - who is a nuclear engineer.

i've had my swap in for about 2 months now, and this is a problem i've had since the beginning - but i thought it would just work its way out thinking it was bad gas. its still happening.

heres how it happens:

get car up to temperature (10 minutes in chilly PA weather)
in only 3rd or 4th gear - give the car gas ONLY between 4,500-5,000 rpm -- the engine feels like its missing, and no acceleration occurs.
engine not throwing any codes. runs normally other than that.

when accelerating through the gears, this doesnt occur -- only when you have been coasting or lightly accelerating does this occur. its just in 3rd and 4th gear, and only when you give a good plant with your right foot does this occur.

any ideas? thanks guys

** by the way - i know you guys worry about stolen R's motors making their way onto the market, which is understandable. my motor is a 97 j-spec motor that i bought from hmo. no stolen mill here.

edit - everyone loves pictures

 

anyone?? please - throw ANY ideas out there! i just need to find an answer!

 

Check your dizzy, spark plugs, ignitor, timing, TPS and your grounds.

I had almost the same problem after my B18C-R swap.

It turned out to be my MSD box

Good Luck

 

jmk2888 said it

 

Don't forget to try here: https://honda-tech.com/zeroforum?id=18

 

sorry. didnt want to get flamed by people that check both forums for posting it everywhere.

drove the car 300+ miles this weekend, and didnt have the problem once... wtf mate?
anyway, keep the suggestions coming.
_SM_

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jmk2888 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Check your dizzy, spark plugs, ignitor, timing, TPS and your grounds.

I had almost the same problem after my B18C-R swap.

It turned out to be my MSD box

Good Luck</TD></TR></TABLE>

distributor cap and rotor are brand new. spark plugs brand new. timing is right on the money. ignitor is probably fine since the car doesnt exhibit problems in 1st, 2nd, and 5th gears. TPS -- probably fine for the same reason. grounds ---&gt; ok, now those are definitely things i can stand to replace, one way or another. do you guys have any suggestions on good grounds? OEM replacement or aftermarket?
thanks
_SM_

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by streetmodified &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

distributor cap and rotor are brand new. spark plugs brand new. timing is right on the money. ignitor is probably fine since the car doesnt exhibit problems in 1st, 2nd, and 5th gears. TPS -- probably fine for the same reason. grounds ---&gt; ok, now those are definitely things i can stand to replace, one way or another. do you guys have any suggestions on good grounds? OEM replacement or aftermarket?
thanks
_SM_</TD></TR></TABLE>

Check your grounds,

1. Valve cover to chasis

2. Tranny to Chassis

3. Thermostat Hosing (most important)

 

...so 3 engineers in a bar drinking beer see a nuclear engineer walk into the bar.

One engineer says to the others "so how many nuclear engineers do you think it would take to wire up a honda?"

The other engineer says...

 

Anyway you can borrow a scan tool?

My theory: If you can monitor the ignition timing, I supect it's picking up knock or what it thinks to be knock and retarding the ignition timing. It goes away after 5k rpms since the ECU ignores the knock sensor at high rpms since there's too much "noise" at high rpms.

Also the knock sensor is suspose to use a shielded wire because the voltage signal is so low. Did your nuclear engineer father use shielded wire? If not replace and see if the problem goes away... ECU may be picking up "noise" and retarding the timing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My theory: If you can monitor the ignition timing, I supect it's picking up knock or what it thinks to be knock and retarding the ignition timing. It goes away after 5k rpms since the ECU ignores the knock sensor at high rpms since there's too much "noise" at high rpms. </TD></TR></TABLE>
interesting

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also the knock sensor is suspose to use a shielded wire because the voltage signal is so low. Did your nuclear engineer father use shielded wire? If not replace and see if the problem goes away... ECU may be picking up "noise" and retarding the timing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha, its possible he didnt. gotta check that out too!


thanks for the help guys. i'll check these out eventually. i hardly drive the car while im at school anyway. so its not all that pressing.