B18C1 In A B16
I can get a stock B18C1 complete rotating assembly for a very reasonable price but no block, but I can get a stock B16 block from my buddy for free. Obviously I would like to put the B18C1 rotating assembly in the B16 block.
Now what are the pros and cons of this combination, is the stroke too much for the block compression too low, etc. Yes or No let me Know Damn straight that ryms
Now what are the pros and cons of this combination, is the stroke too much for the block compression too low, etc. Yes or No let me Know Damn straight that ryms
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StorminMatt »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The B16A block is too short to reliably run the B18C1 87.2mm stroke.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually, Toda's B16 stroker kit uses a Integra Type-R crank and it has a 87.2mm stroke as well. The only thing that I can think of that this individual would have to do is to get rods custom made to fit and recalculate his CR with this new stroke. I say if you have the time and know how on how to do this right go for it. If not, just go get a stroker kit with all of the work done for you and have it installed.
Actually, Toda's B16 stroker kit uses a Integra Type-R crank and it has a 87.2mm stroke as well. The only thing that I can think of that this individual would have to do is to get rods custom made to fit and recalculate his CR with this new stroke. I say if you have the time and know how on how to do this right go for it. If not, just go get a stroker kit with all of the work done for you and have it installed.
The BIG problem with stroker kits is the fact that rod ratio is degraded due to having a long stroke in a short block. This means accelerated engine wear. Besides, stroker kits are expensive. And even if you use a GSR crank in a B16A block, you are going to have to buy expensive custom rods. If you want 1.8 liters, it would be cheaper and more reliable to get a whole B18C bottom end than try to stroke a B16A to 87.2mm.
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