ok have done a search, cant find much on h22a engines... ..ive seen b16a explaintions but most are differnt looking and, they leave there idle fluctuating, which i absolutly hate!

I know this can be done without the idle flutuating, ive done this on my zc crx and it worked great.. many people have done it, but all the guides i can find are missing pics...
what i want to know is... do i connect hose "b" to pipe "a2"...will this do it? ive been staring at it for a while now... and remmeber i dont want the idle to be jumping from 1000-1500 everytime i start it up




Modified by americ_ian at 3:25 PM 10/14/2004

 

Connect the A1 and B nipples with a single short hose and you'll have no idle problems because it's still closed. Then connect the two hoses that are left open from what you just did.

 

sorry to jack but what does this do?


gains?

problems?

 

meh...it just keeps coolant from flowing through your TB and heating it up slightly. Not a huge gain, but it can't hurt

No problems if you close everything back up tightly...

 

ok so now it looks like this...is this right??

 

I can't see where the B line goes to, but you got everything else Start it up and check for leaks...

 

you need to put a plate between the cold-start-valve and the TB, if not, you are going to have a fluctuating idle.

*BTW, i heard someone on this forum say that there is a screw on the cold-start-valve that can close the air passage completely. i did not see a screw on/in there, but it works the way i did it.

 

the b line(refer to fist pic) goes to where a2 used to be...
just started it up, no probs, no leakingh, went for drive roudn the bloack, and it was warm... drove back home, and the idle was fluctuating!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SUB-0 H23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to put a plate between the cold-start-valve and the TB, if not, you are going to have a fluctuating idle.

*BTW, i heard someone on this forum say that there is a screw on the cold-start-valve that can close the air passage completely. i did not see a screw on/in there, but it works the way i did it.</TD></TR></TABLE>


hmmm so i tighten the screw and it wil stop fluctuating??? anywere particular to look, i c one on the top of the throtle body?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SUB-0 H23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
*BTW, i heard someone on this forum say that there is a screw on the cold-start-valve that can close the air passage completely. i did not see a screw on/in there, but it works the way i did it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yep, there is a plastic threaded piece around the metal cone shaped rod inside the valve. Screw that piece down until it is firm against the cone and you will have no more fluctuating idle...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BrokeLude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yep, there is a plastic threaded piece around the metal cone shaped rod inside the valve. Screw that piece down until it is firm against the cone and you will have no more fluctuating idle...</TD></TR></TABLE>

where abouts is it...do i have to take the throttle body off to find it??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by americ_ian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... drove back home, and the idle was fluctuating! </TD></TR></TABLE>

Damn, sorry, man, I forgot when I did that I did eventually have to put a plate between the valve and the TB. I just folded some aluminum foil over itself a few times and bolted it in between.

 

ok im gunna go rip the throtle body off...i dont have a gasket, so hopefuly i wont get an airleak wen i put it back on...or if sum1 culd tell me where this screw is lol....

 

the cold-start-valve does not a have a gasket but 2(i think) o-rings. do what i did and make a plate out of a soda can, LOL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SUB-0 H23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the cold-start-valve does not a have a gasket but 2(i think) o-rings. do what i did and make a plate out of a soda can, LOL </TD></TR></TABLE>

nah the gasket for the throttle body, can i take the cold start valve off without taking the Tb off??

 

Yes, it is on the bottom of the throttle body. No need to take off the throttle body. It bolts on from the bottom with 3 10mm bolts I believe...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by americ_ian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nah the gasket for the throttle body, can i take the cold start valve off without taking the Tb off??</TD></TR></TABLE>

from this pic it looks like you can #13

 

ok got the cold start valve off, now do i put a plate between this and the TB or do i have to take the cold start valve aparts and put a plate in there sumwhere?
or do i cover up all 3 holes or just 1 or 2?

 

Ahhh...you're almost there, just cover those 3 holes and you should be good to go

 

Take off the 2 screws on the plate at the bottom of that picture and you will see the plastic piece I was talking about.

 

ok what ive done is taken off the backing plate, taken out the plastic screw(thanks broke lude) ive takent he spring out and turned it around.. and turnd the metal plate holding the spring in aournd as well, so the spring is always pushing it closed... i then tightend the plastic screw al the way up.... will this do the trick now...as i dont see anyway of air/coolant being able to go through??

 

I didn't turn anything around, just tighted the screw until it was against the metal cone part.

 

done finished!... i did the screw and the plate technique...intake manifold and throtle body is much cooler!... thanks for ur help guys

 

Man... how bout your idle? Did it clear up. You can't just split like that. Let us know.

 

yeah man idle is sweet