have any of you actually fitted a set of these 87.25mm pistons and rods into an H22? or been around and engine that actually has a set and is in proper working order? (i can't seem to find anyone that has...)

 

That may be due to the fact that its 1K for pistons and 1K for rods. I havent met anyone running a Jun bottom end yet, on any car. Especially an H series.

 

how come? too much $ for what they yield?

 

Blake aka JUNbb1 is running them. He's the only guy i know so far who has used them. Seems like he has had no problems with them with the stock FRM sleeves.

 

yep hes right. Ive been running them for a year and a half now. about 20,000 miles. i daily drive the car and beat the **** out of it. no problems and i wont have any.

the forging has the right amount of silicon in it to work indefinatly in FRM walls.

basically the same materials that the NSX and S2000 use from honda with their forged pistons. Even though they are forged i would not say they are good for nitrous, better than stock but not the best. I also have the rods.

 

The compression on the JUN pistons is around 12.3:1 right? If so, what kind of tuning was required to get your car running on pump gas? There's a set for sale on ebay, but the guy selling them is stating that they have a compression ratio of only 11.1:1, which I find to be a little low. I was going to send my block to get sleeved so I could run the JE 11.5:1 pistons, but if I can skip that ordeal and run the JUN pistons, I may just do that

 

Hey blake could the JUN pistons work with 5th gen rods? Also i would be very skeptickle of ebay, as far as you know you might end up buying run of the mill Type S pistons.

 

thanks for the replys guys.

and yes, blake, any and all info you can share with me i would really appreciate. i am seriously looking at these, and the cost is the only thing prohibitive right now. i have some questions if you don't mind...

question 1: they only come .25 oversize, i assume you bored the .25mm/.010" over?

question 2: what kind of fuel are you running?

question 3: what kind of management are you running?

question 4: are you running them in an OBD I or an OBD II car? not that it really matters...

question 5: what was the install process like?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iakona &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the replys guys.

and yes, blake, any and all info you can share with me i would really appreciate. i am seriously looking at these, and the cost is the only thing prohibitive right now. i have some questions if you don't mind...

question 1: they only come .25 oversize, i assume you bored the .25mm/.010" over?

question 2: what kind of fuel are you running?

question 3: what kind of management are you running?

question 4: are you running them in an OBD I or an OBD II car? not that it really matters...

question 5: what was the install process like? </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iakona &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks for the replys guys.

and yes, blake, any and all info you can share with me i would really appreciate. i am seriously looking at these, and the cost is the only thing prohibitive right now. i have some questions if you don't mind...

question 1: they only come .25 oversize, i assume you bored the .25mm/.010" over?

question 2: what kind of fuel are you running?

question 3: what kind of management are you running?

question 4: are you running them in an OBD I or an OBD II car? not that it really matters...

question 5: what was the install process like? </TD></TR></TABLE>

well to answer if they will work on fifth gen rods, i would assume so. the rod ends would have to be rebushed though to accept floating wrist pins. any reputable machine shop could do this. Or you could use type s rods which already have floating wrist pins. either way it may need some more research to work. i am not 100% sure that they will work on type s rods w/o processing. but it can be done.

now for the other questions.

1. yes only 87.25.
2. we have 93 octane in Soutn Carolina but 91 will be ok, with proper tuning.
3. p28 hondata
4. obd1 (obviously with hondata)
5. i did not do the install. but it is the same as factory specs.

 

Junbb1, just curious, how much whp are you putting down? I assume you have all the bolt ons too?

 

Actually the 5th gen rods have a floating wrist pin design.

 

I'm curious to know what kind of compression ratio you're running?

 

Well with the JUN cams and the Pistons, i would guess he's somewhat around 12:1.

 

thank you!!

i hopefully will run the JUN rods and pistons (compression of 12.3:1) in my TypeS motor. but since i am getting the full assembly, it won't matter about the rod ends.

how does your motor respond to a "not so great" quality gasoline? just curious. i will most likely run a Hondata s200 on a P72 with a jumper harness

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iakona &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you!!

i hopefully will run the JUN rods and pistons (compression of 12.3:1) in my TypeS motor. but since i am getting the full assembly, it won't matter about the rod ends.

how does your motor respond to a "not so great" quality gasoline? just curious. i will most likely run a Hondata s200 on a P72 with a jumper harness</TD></TR></TABLE>
That isnt my car. haha
But from what i hear in cali anything above 11:8ish(w/ a h22 not B series's) with 91 octane its hard to pull the most potential with out running it really detuned due to gas.

 

so you are running the jun pistons and rods on an unsleeved block. i thought you had to sleeve the block in order to run forged pistons. can you explain this to me because this would really help me out. i dont want to get my block resleeved.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by danacixem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so you are running the jun pistons and rods on an unsleeved block. i thought you had to sleeve the block in order to run forged pistons. can you explain this to me because this would really help me out. i dont want to get my block resleeved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by junbb1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yep hes right. Ive been running them for a year and a half now. about 20,000 miles. i daily drive the car and beat the **** out of it. no problems and i wont have any.

the forging has the right amount of silicon in it to work indefinatly in FRM walls.

basically the same materials that the NSX and S2000 use from honda with their forged pistons. Even though they are forged i would not say they are good for nitrous, better than stock but not the best. I also have the rods.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

this is a little bit off topic but why do we get 93 here in the south east i hope it stays here for a long while