I've gone through the searches and have come up with little info in camber adjustments. Most of the products that I have seen are geared towards camber correction whereas I want just the opposite: -2.75 Camber to -3.25 camber adjustment.

I have looked into SPC and Omini and the most that I can get with their UCA is
-2.0X camber with great difficulty

Any suggestions?

 

front or rear?

 

Sorry, Front Camber adjustment.
I could slot but that makes it difficult to change camber on the track.

The rear camber adjustment is small.

 

skunk2

-although the older design tends to slip if the powdercoating is not stripped....dunno how robust the new design is...prolly works well.

 

Skunk 2

 

Also, keep in mind that an arm will adjust from where you started with a stock arm. So if you're low enough to get -1 degree in front and your arm can only get you an additional -2, you're still going to be able to get -3 degrees. The Skunk2 arms still seem like the best bet.

 

A lot of people use adjustable upper control arms. Make sure they're legal for the class you're running in.

Some examples of adj uca are: Skunk2, King/Mugen, I think SRS makes some too. Search for adjustable upper control arms and I'm sure you'll find lots of information.

There are a lot of people that like offset bushings too. The pro/con to them is they might be legal is some classes where adj uca might not be, prolly lighter(?), won't slip -- con - can't adjust.

[edit: damn you people are fast ]

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raceEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry, Front Camber adjustment.
I could slot but that makes it difficult to change camber on the track.

The rear camber adjustment is small.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Skunk2 has a very wide range of adjustment. With my car lowered to about 5" to jacking point, the Skunk2 was able to give me -4 degree of total camber.

It also gave me +2 degree of camber when they slipped too.

 

OPM has some offset delrin bushings available for GS-Rs that should work in an EG hatch. Guaranteed no-slip solution.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OPM has some offset delrin bushings available for GS-Rs that should work in an EG hatch. Guaranteed no-slip solution.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How do these work -- do you have to get your car measured, or can you just order them as -1.5 for instance?

I think I'd like to convert to offset bushings from adj uca's. How much $$?

I guess I could call OPM, but I'm lazy and at this point, not that motivated a buyer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by El Pollo Diablo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">skunk2

-although the older design tends to slip if the powdercoating is not stripped....dunno how robust the new design is...prolly works well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's the problem. I'm not a fan of the Skunk 2. I've seen quite a few ITR's come back from the track with damaged bolts or slipped

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpiceyRice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How do these work -- do you have to get your car measured, or can you just order them as -1.5 for instance?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have the same q as well And would anyone have a link?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SpiceyRice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do these work</TD></TR></TABLE>

That part I can't help you with. I'm pretty sure Scott had 'em on his GS-R when he owned it.

I would imagine that simply by rotating the bushing inside the holder thing you could adjust the camber that way.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raceEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

That's the problem. I'm not a fan of the Skunk 2. I've seen quite a few ITR's come back from the track with damaged bolts or slipped
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then I'm surprised you're looking at the Omni kit - which is the exact same thing. Noone is entirely satisfied with it, but the limitations can be dealt with. Every couple of weeks someone posts about their search for the non-existent better (while at the same time affordable) product.

OPM's website is here: http://www.opmautosports.com

I wonder whatever happened to those motivated people who were going to design a solution similar to the A-sports kit, but without the $600 price tag...

 

Four race weekends with a couple of offs and my Skunk2s have yet to slip. They do bang the crap out of the shock towers though at what I don't think is a very low ride height and 650# springs.

The offset bushings work by relocating the center hole in the UCAs. Won't give you the 4 degrees the adjustable arms will give, but can give an extra 1 degree or so negative, which is more then enough.

 

lol. Yes, I only tried the Omni to see the amt of camber I might be seeing. It really wasn't a consideration.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
That part I can't help you with. I'm pretty sure Scott had 'em on his GS-R when he owned it.

I would imagine that simply by rotating the bushing inside the holder thing you could adjust the camber that way.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can run the same effect with slotting.

 

PLEASE READ:

RPM Engineering has just prototyped a full delrin bushing kit--front/lower and rear lower and upper control arms with metal OFFSET bushing that guarantees an EXTRA 1.5 degrees. I have personally been doing the r&d for these and stand
behind them 100%. When I replaced my energy suspension bushings with these, I literally dropped a second per lap. We got more consistent tire temps across the surface of the tire and the car was so much more balanced and easier to control.

Just about anyone who has ever taken tire temps on a road race honda will tell you that they tend to heat up the outside of the front tires (which in an IT Prep Honda is probably a result of LOSING negative camber through bushing flex) and the outside of the rear tires, which is probably a result of not having enough static neg camber to begin with. These bushings are an absolute must for anyone who has ever questioned the integrity of there poly or stock bushings.

That's all I will say about that for now, but you will hear more about this bushing kit in the very near future, I am sure.

If you are really curious about this kit, email me and i will forward you some good pictures of the kit along with details...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JeffS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wonder whatever happened to those motivated people who were going to design a solution similar to the A-sports kit, but without the $600 price tag...</TD></TR></TABLE>

mine are drawn up in solidworks, and tested on paper....but my motivation at this moment is my job.

Its hard to 'prototype' parts without #1 time, #2 spare income, #3 loss of interest in hondas. but, im working on it.

like anyone cares...

 

Call Alex at Kingratmotorsports.com

I purchased a Comptech kit from him that allows camber up to -3.75. He also had many different options available. If you want, you can drop my name as a point of reference.

 

Hi Littleton,
Please send info to acr_racing(AT)hotmail.com (at) == @

That would have been my next post regarding bushings as well.

*****

I ended calling some places a bit more for a solution. When I finish the suspention this month I'll post an update. Thanks all.

 

lyonel, how did RPM get around the issue of bind with solid type bushings? i've made delrin bushings for the front uca and the rear lca. the front uca didn't have any bind issues but i could only get 1/8* out of them. the rear lca had severe bind issues.

nate

 

delrin bushing can be used in the entire front suspension because the front lower and upper arm travel up and down in a strait line were as in the rear the upper and lower arm are connected to the trailing arm which doesn't travel perfectly strait up and down. it moves in a arc pivoting off the large rubber bushing, so as it moves up and down it pulls the arms forward and backward and also it twist the arms too, at least one of the joints on each arm must be a spherical bearing.

If anyone is interested in a delrin kit for eg and dc I make a full kit for the front lower and upper for a $120 for pic and info e mail me @ procarinnovation@yahoo.com also have spherical replacement for the large rubber trailing arm bushing full cnc anodized very nice