Modified by LSVTEC_DC2R at 8:26 PM 4/16/2005

 

it will fit, and its going to make some power too

 

On a stock-deck block, the rod ratio's gonna be pretty bad. Lots of side-loads on the cylinder walls and piston skirts. Don't spin it too hard and it should be OK, but don't expect it to go 100k miles with no leakdown.

 

If it is an all out race car, GREAT! You would be tearing the motor down each season from what I have been told. I don't have direct personal experience with it myself BUT some ALL MOTOR guys tell me it is annual tear downs with a 95mm stroke.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC DC4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Can i get an deckplate wouldent this help!?How can i fix the rod length, do i shortin it?By how much and also what did this get moved to forced induction i would think allmotor or dragracing </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, a deckplate will help. Of course, you'll have to get the block sleeved in the process as well, so it's not going to be inexpensive. You want longer rods, not shorter - getting a better rod ratio is possible without a deck plate, but it will require pistons with less compression height (the distance from the center of the pin bore to the top of the piston (not including the dome) and custom-length rods. There's only so much you can do within the physical limits of a stock-deck LS block, though.

 

The problem isn't the crank per se - it's the short rods (relative to the crank throw) and the resulting angle of the rod when the crank is at 90 and 180 degrees. Picture it in your head and you'll see that shorter rods mean more side load on the pistons, which does Bad Things to the cylinder walls, piston skirts, rings, and so on. If you can live with a motor that will need to be torn down more often than one with less-severe geometry, then go for it.