Repairing rust holes
What gauge sheet metal is recommended ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's thin so you just have to tack so you don't blow through or warp it. brazing works fine too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you use gas can't you weld the whole area if you know what your doing, then sand it down so you don't have to use any bondo ?
Modified by 90blackcrx at 12:01 PM 10/13/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it's thin so you just have to tack so you don't blow through or warp it. brazing works fine too.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you use gas can't you weld the whole area if you know what your doing, then sand it down so you don't have to use any bondo ?
Modified by 90blackcrx at 12:01 PM 10/13/2004
Welding in a hole or a patch is the way to do it. Skim it with fiberglass, then bondo to get it straight.
Bondo is a tool, 99% of restored cars have bondo in it. When you build a car you skim the WHOLE car with bondo. 80% gets sanded off. This is the only way to get it perfectly straight.
There is always the use of lead filler if you dont want any bondo. But many builders use bondo overtop of lead, again to get it straight.
-Eric
Bondo is a tool, 99% of restored cars have bondo in it. When you build a car you skim the WHOLE car with bondo. 80% gets sanded off. This is the only way to get it perfectly straight.
There is always the use of lead filler if you dont want any bondo. But many builders use bondo overtop of lead, again to get it straight.
-Eric
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Well, here is what I would do. Cut out the area and cut a piece of sheet metal as close as possible to the area you cut out. Weld it all around, take your time so warping does not occur, then take and angle grinder and sand it down. This way you will not have to use as much bondo or fiber glass.
this is what im doing right now on my teg... since im to broke to pay for new panels and a trunk....
1. sand down area to bare metal so you can really see how much rust is under the paint.
2. cut out rusted area
3. use rust converter on surrounding area
4. make templates for new pieces of metal ( i used 20 guage)
5. use etching primer on piece and surrounding area
6. tack pieces in place/ grind down tacks flush
7. fill first 1 or 2 layers with fiber filler or kitty hair
8. snad and fill with lightweight body filler
9. repate these filler proccese until it feels smooth then fill with glazing to get al little pin holes and scratches out... we wll see what it looks like when i paint my car
i hate bodywork though
1. sand down area to bare metal so you can really see how much rust is under the paint.
2. cut out rusted area
3. use rust converter on surrounding area
4. make templates for new pieces of metal ( i used 20 guage)
5. use etching primer on piece and surrounding area
6. tack pieces in place/ grind down tacks flush
7. fill first 1 or 2 layers with fiber filler or kitty hair
8. snad and fill with lightweight body filler
9. repate these filler proccese until it feels smooth then fill with glazing to get al little pin holes and scratches out... we wll see what it looks like when i paint my car
i hate bodywork though
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cut out really bad part, sandblast the so so parts then make a steel patch and weld away. spray with primer and drive around for a year or two.</TD></TR></TABLE>
HAHAHAHA, good one
HAHAHAHA, good one
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,035
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From: DES MOINES, IA/ O.C., USA... EAGLE ROCK, CA
yea you need to take your time so when you are welding a sheet metal or oem cutout part you dont warp a single thing... then you got to use bondo on top to smooth it out...
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