Modified by lax1185 at 5:34 PM 12/22/2004

 

what guage wire did you use ?

 

14 guage wire was used...bought it at Aid Auto Stores

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lax1185 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Has anyone else ever had this happen? Is it a defect? </TD></TR></TABLE>

wow.. i had to look at it 3 times, and after reading the artilce to understand what that was... wow. ive NEVER seen that.

and if i were you, i would take it to honda, and see if i could of got a free pulley out of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lax1185 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">14 guage wire was used...bought it at Aid Auto Stores</TD></TR></TABLE>

14ga is more than what they run for speaker wire.. what exactly was it hook up to? what big current circuit was it on?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

14ga is more than what they run for speaker wire.. what exactly was it hook up to? what big current circuit was it on?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It was hooked up to the yellow/green fuel pump power wire

 

What was the amperage rating on the switch you used?

 

i have only seen this happen one time on a 99 crv the complaint was that the ac wasnt cooling. it was because the compressor wasnt moving

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What was the amperage rating on the switch you used?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The "recommended" 25A switch.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BADEG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have only seen this happen one time on a 99 crv the complaint was that the ac wasnt cooling. it was because the compressor wasnt moving </TD></TR></TABLE>

Was it exactly like this separated at the balancer?

Should I print these pics out and mail them to Honda? Is this really that rare where it might be a defect and they can refund me the 190 bucks the new one cost?

 

HOw can that NOT be a defect? That must be a pretty strong belt to spin that outer piece right off the inner one.

 

bump...anyone else?

 

Not sure on the switch problem, the crank pulley must be purely a defect. I would definately take it to a dealer, or call american honda and find out about a re-imbursement on that. That really sucks about the tree. I had a big limb fall on my Si a while back. Did like $2500 to the top and passengers side.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PodRacerSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would definately take it to a dealer, or call american honda and find out about a re-imbursement on that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly.. i would give it a shot.. they might re-emburse the cost of atleast the part, and maybe some of the labor. thats very very odd, and the crank pulley should be strong as hell, its just super rare it split in half.

its worth a shot. ide call the local dealer, and maybe talk to the parts manager, and maybe see if he can help you, (tell him your a broke college student or something) and offer to bring him down the pulley. you might get something outa it.

 

Okay so a trip to the local Honda dealer is def. in line for Monday...anyone else have any suggestions?

 

there is rubber in there.. thats where it seperated...
prob got too hot and wham.... or maybe just sever dry rot... that rubber is why you do not add lightweight crank pullies to our cars...

 

I though you were gonna say you heard a noise and upon inspection I found that there was a tree sitting in my engine bay.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wow.. i had to look at it 3 times, and after reading the artilce to understand what that was... wow. ive NEVER seen that.

and if i were you, i would take it to honda, and see if i could of got a free pulley out of it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

honda - 3yrs 36k "warran-free"
but they may make an exception ... at acura, ivenever seen this

 

I would contact honda. Esecially since your car is stock. If it was modified then they could have excuses. But not with a stock car.

 

that pulley is pretty damn awesome, mount it on your wall or keep it in your glove box and show everyone you know

 

this is the second time i've seen the harmonic balancer and crank pulley separated. the first was my brothers camry (98). We were replacing the belts and i saw that the crank pulley was a little "off". So i went to mess with it and the damm thing just separated into two. WTF that's not supposed to be like that, but he still drove around like that for about a week. I have no idea what the hell caused this. I should have taken a pic looks exactlly like you're piece.

 

bump

 

bump again

 

That happened to the crank pulley on a 93 Ford Escort I used to have a long time ago. It caused the timing belt to snap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lax1185 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It was hooked up to the yellow/green fuel pump power wire</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why oh why do people insist on using THIS particular wire for their kill switch install??

You need to install the switch on the Grn/Yel wire which the ECU uses to energize the coil, which in turn pulls the contacts together in order to feed the fuel pump +12v.

And I'm not sure why anyone is suggesting a 25A switch - the fuel pump itself is fused at 15A.



*This schematic is for OBD2b Civics*

 

Now that is what I was looking for Chris...the right way to do it. Thanks man...no wonder this happened.