<U>::UPDATED::</U>


Modified by Mike813 at 8:13 PM 10/10/2004

 

I'd have a look at the balljoints. This sounds like a problem I had on my Saab and a loose balljoint can ruin your whole day.

 

The sway bars may be part of your problem when high speed cornering, but what you are saying has nothing to do with that, so i would have to say also the ball joints and knuckle

 

My 95 did this when I had lowered it because I needed an alignment and new tires like some you wouldn't believe. (I was replacing front tires every 2 weeks). I would say have that alignment done since you said you needed one anyway. Also check the tires to see if they need to be replaced and definately fix those end links. If it still does the same after that go to a performance shop and get a second opinion.

 

i just changed the swaybar endlinks today, but came up with a weird problem... i got the bushings only from e/s for like 10$'s but fitment was a problem, the long thru bolt doesnt seem to reach high enough to mount the bolt back on to tighten it, anyone else had this issue??? but if i remove the spacer in between the endlinks it fits well but it doesnt seem like it belongs like that...


and for the ball joint i took a look at it while i was under there and saw that it too was also cracked in many places... i never changed the balljoints before, but from what i read all i need is the clamp/press to remove/install and borrow a ball joint seperator... is that everything i need??? ive seen a set of replacement bushings only by tasauto.com
is that a picture of the top + lower b-joint?

 

If you are replacing the entire balljoint then yes, you will need a press to press the old one out and new one in. I've seen a balljoint press you can rent at AutoZone but I've been told that doesn't work all that great. I've never replaced any so I don't know personally. I do know the upper balljoints are a part of the UCA and if you are replacing those you would need to replace the entire UCA.

If you are only replacing worn/cracked boots then that picture you posted is what you would need. What you get when you buy that kit is the balljoint boots for both front uppers and lowers. You could probably get a replacement rubber boot from any auto parts store but I'm not sure. When I did my brake job a tore the boot when removing the knuckle (took the entire knuckle to a shop and had the press everythign apart and back together). I bought those to replace them and they worked great for the next 7 months I drove the car. Then I totalled it so I don't know how long they would have lasted.

 

great, thanks for the quick replies... ill try to snap a picture of it later to see if i have misinformed anything about the balljoint since i never touched it before.

if i do replace just the boots, would i need that press/clamp tool? or would the seperator do the job? thanks again.

 

You would just need the seperater to remove the knuckle from the car. Then from there you will have access to replace the boots.

 

::update::

i ordered a new set of end links today, and i was just wondering for those who changed theirs to the energy suspension endlink (bushings only) do you need the seperator in between? or do those washers sit on one another? i would think itll cause rattling or squeaks if the 2 sits on top of one another...

| = washer
0 = bushing
- = oem seperator


|00|-|00| &lt;&lt;--oem seperator in between..
|00||00| &lt;&lt;--energy suspension..

im going to do the balljoint boots tomorrow to see if it helps the pulling of the car...

 

Regarding installation of anti-sway bar bushings. I found that it was necessary to "loosely" install both sides w/ hinge bushings loose and then tighten. If you install one side, there is inadequate play to allow other side to be installed due to sway bar stiffness.

I found the sway bar bushings helped eliminate sensitivity to road bumps.

good luck

 

I have the ES sway bar set, end links and bushings.

({}){}) end link with spacer ES or factory. To get it to grab as the sway bar should have some good pressure to it. You need to take a bar and wedge it down enough to get the nut to bite.
If you don't use the spacer, then your sway bar will be nothing but a pretty peice of metal under the car. That is what ES and some others told me when I was working on installing mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hawkmgc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the ES sway bar set, end links and bushings.

({}){}) end link with spacer ES or factory. To get it to grab as the sway bar should have some good pressure to it. You need to take a bar and wedge it down enough to get the nut to bite.
If you don't use the spacer, then your sway bar will be nothing but a pretty peice of metal under the car. That is what ES and some others told me when I was working on installing mine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats what i thought too, i tried using a c-clamp to clamp it down still its way too high to get the bolt to screw down...

i went to another performance shop to check out the other products besides ES and found a item made by "Prothane" looks just like the ES kit and they came with a thru bolt/washer/bushing but yet no spacer im between, which made me believe are you suppose to use the oem spacer? i opened the package and tried slipping the oem spacer in between and it wouldnt even fit thru the thru bolt it came with... so right nowi just left it without a spacer and just a rubber washer between like

+ = rubber washer
|00|+|00|

 

take a look at ur ball joints, ur alignment and the balancing of ur tires.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accord450 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take a look at ur ball joints, ur alignment and the balancing of ur tires.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

the alignment i def. have to do...but i recently purchased a balljoint boot replacement but didnt have the time to go rent the seperator from autozone, i was planning to do the alignment after i install the boots and figure out the endlink situation... i emailed ES hopefully they can clear things up..

 

That is odd because mine the factory spacer fit just fine. Cannot see why yours wouldn't unless you got the wrong kit. I would look into that. another easy fix would be to go down to the local hardware store with the bolt and the spacer and have them make you one the same but with the larger bore so it will fit.