Well needless to say I'm kinda pissed off because I think my stock block is on it's way out. I think I just have bad luck with stock blocks. I blew one GSR motor (untuned on hack) and now I think this one is going too (high comp b16, tuned by Jeff Evans).

The reason I think it's done-Well I was on my way to the track the other day (Fall nationals at E-town) and I was just crusing, taking it easy. Only time I floored it, was when I dropped it into 3rd, then into 4th, and only went up to 110mph, then backed off (Because I know that high-speed pulls put a ton of stress on our turbo motors). Anyway, I drove straight through, and the only real time I stopped was when I got to the track. So as I'm waiting on line I noticed that my vaccuum is a little lower than usual, and the idle is low. Normally it idles at around 1k and up, but it was around 500rpm's and vaccuum was down from 22 to about 18. Also, the idle is not smooth like it used to be, it sounds kinda poppy. No big deal, no smoke or anything. I did 3 passes at the track (best was a 14.4 @ 104, full interior teg) I thought my car should be trapping higher so I decided to dyno it (free dynojet dyno) It only made 238whp, when last month (when I got it tuned, Sept. 2nd) it made 265whp (and it was hotter that day too). . .

So w/e, I stopped running for the day and it brings me to today. Car runs fine, no problems, and then I pull into my driveway, I see some smoke coming from under the hood. I look and can't tell where it's coming from, and then I see the tiniest amount coming from the valvecover breather (i mean not even visible until you look into the light). I am thinking ringlands, so I do a compression test - 1 2 3 4 = 230 230 232 240. A little lower than last month, 240 240 240 240. I checked the plugs too, all black, no white spots on the insulator tips, so it's not running lean.

The car runs fine and still boosts fine, but I think that the engine is on it's way out. Is it possible to crack a ringland w/o showing it in compression?

About the build question. . .I am kinda pressed for $$ right now, but I already have these parts:
b16a block
CP pistons
Manley Rods
ACL bearings
New oil pump/h20 pump
Fluidamper harmonic balancer

I will be sending the block to Bensons for the following:
Sleeving, boring, honing, micropolishing the crank, assembly, and return shipping
(will all cost me 1625). That's not the problem, I have that $$..

My question (After all my babling):
I have a stock GSR head (80k miles) with a venom intake manifold, and a gt32e turbo. My turbo limit's me to about 560 flywheel HP, and that's maxed out. Now I know the stock head can flow that much, but it will be a slight restriction. The shortblock should be able to handle more power than that. Should I go ahead and build the head, or keep it the way it is? If I really don't have to spend the $$, that would help me out a TON. I can use that for tuning and injectors (but I am keeping basically the same turbo kit)
OR do you guys suggest that I should build the head now, which will delay my build, but then IF I decide to upgrade the turbo in the future, I will be able to make more than 500whp.

Summary (If you don't want to read)
Pressed for money, have a stock GSR head, GT32E turbo, should I build it to match my (600+ capable) shortblock?



Modified by m R g S r at 9:34 PM 10/4/2004

 

if your pressed for cash.. keep the stock head.
use money on block, fuel managment & tunning.

stock heads already flow decently well.

 

yea stock head is fine, but a built head is an amazing upgrade...but since you are doing the bottom end right this time you can run stock head without problem...and then use that money for tuning/management..

 

Anyone else?
Also, do you guys think that the ringlands are going, I don't think it is possible, but maybe they have hairline cracks now?

 

If the ring is cracking, if you pushed it some more they will eventually be gone and then more smoke will come out. First i only see a tiny bit of smoke on mine but then as time goes by it get worser and worser... Maybe your is jsut a tiny crack and it doesnt show up in compression test yet..

 

I was kinda thinking that. Maybe I'm just paranoid, because sometimes I get a solid 22 reading on my vacuum gauge and a normal idle, and like I said, the car feels strong still, pulls just as strong as it did when I drove it home (I think, I'm kinda used to the power).