ok so i have a 94 gsr 2 door and i put on new rear pads and rotors, the car has 130k miles on it

i put everything on right , and i rotated the rear piston till there was more then enough clerance to put the caliper back on, then i put the pads in and bolted everything back up right, i got in the car pull the ebrake up, put it back down , start the car, check the brake pedal( its fine) then i go driving with it and the rear brakes are like locked, both of them are . . there is a bad noise allthe time and the car barley moves ..


please help me

thanks

JAY

 

Did the pads slide nicely in the caliper bracket? I often have to file down the ends so they slide. (Usually just removing the paint is enough.)

Does the handbrake lever (on the caliper) move OK? I had one rust & seize, so when I released the handbrake it didn't really release.

 

No they did not go in easily on the one side they did and the other side we had to shave them down to even get them in..

and no the handbrake is not the problem

 

Sounds like its time for 2 new rear calipers

I had 2 1994 integras and on both cars the rear calipers froze on me, The first one i replaced at 125k and the second teg at 110k

If you buy the refurbished ones from your local auto parts store and install them yourself its not too bad plus you can get a core exchange

 

sound like you have crystal buildup on your brake pads, get new brake pads, take in your calipers and have someone file them down so they are nice and smooth this problem should dissolve.

 

one more thing i forgot to say the main reason you need to file the calipers down is due to heat spots on the calipers

 

Im using New Brake pads...

and i think your wrong....

 

Maybe the handbrake mechanism inside the caliper is mucked up?? There's a funny ratchet mechanism inside the caliper. It's supposed to disengage at some specific angle each time you pull & release the handbrake. That's how it auto-adjusts itself as the pads wear down.

Because if you were able to turn the pistons in to make room for the new pads, then your hydraulic system isn't holding the brakes on.

And you say the caliper slide pins are OK. And you shaved the pads so they fit properly in the caliper bracket...

That leaves the handbrake. There's isn't anything else in there.

 

i tryed loosening the ebrake cable( by the ebrake handle) and it didnt seem to make a diff. .

i even bled some fluid out because the cyclinder in the engine bay was super filled . . . it didnt really help . . if you try to go in reverse the back end comes up like the ebrake is on . . it looks kinda funny

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Googs16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like its time for 2 new rear calipers

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i highly doubt two rear calipers will go out at the SAME time . . the cylinders both turn pretty easyly, i dont think there "blown"

 

BUMP

 

the rear brakes are actuator type brakes. they arent a sliding in and out piston, its actually a screw type device.

does the handbrake go up and down smoothly?

do the rear brakes ever disengage ?

i suggest taking everything off and inspecting it and then putting it back together.

screw the piston in and then apply the brakes to see if they engage and then disengage, and then troubleshoot from there.

 

yes we have tried all of that . . . .


edit:
**** im stupid, the slidder pins on both sides of the caliper carms were stuck shut . . i have to buy 2 new ones ( or used ones) thansk for your help everyone . . i didnt figure this out till i was DAMN drunk , lets here it for everclear and being drunk while working on cars . .


Modified by jason bouchard at 7:13 AM 10/5/2004