How road race worthy is a GSR?
This may sound totally stupid, but how well will the GSR do on the track? I currently have a 95 GSR with only 50k on it and I am in the process of building it up to start time trialing it and autocrossing. However, the GSR will never be a Type R and I am curious how much you can do to them before they are a waste of time. I am finishing up college as we speak and will be able to actually afford some parts! I have autocrossed a couple of times and loved it, but I want to go farther and I am trying to find the best car. 1 My GSR is still worth a good amount of money and don't want to turn it into a 10k steel block. 2 The frame seems rather weak. I know the type R is significantly been straightened and this was done for a reason, the GSR is very creaky and I am curious how the GSR feel with large amoounts of stress on them from R tires and a full suspension. The bottom line is... is the CRX or EG that much better to make it worth selling my GSR and making a new car? I don't think I will ever race wheel to wheel, but I would imagine it could get frustrating always falling short of the type R's and hybrids. Another obviously annoying problem is having no head room and a sunroof. Any thoughts?
What kind of track are you talking about? You said you don't plan to do any wheel to wheel, are you talking autox then? If you mean for autoxing, the type r and hybrids would be in different classes (depending on mods) so you wouldn't exactly be competing against them.
I guess I get to be the first to say work on the driver before the car, because right now (like me) your car is probably faster than you can drive it.
I think the GSR is at or near the top of the heap in its class, definitely can be competitive. I'm not one of the experienced guys on the board, so hopefully someone can give you more info.
I guess I get to be the first to say work on the driver before the car, because right now (like me) your car is probably faster than you can drive it.
I think the GSR is at or near the top of the heap in its class, definitely can be competitive. I'm not one of the experienced guys on the board, so hopefully someone can give you more info.
I should clearify some more... I want to do autocrosses, and timetrials/Solo. I do not forsee wanting to go into like ITS and get my *** kicked in an underpower integra in SCCA Racing. The Honda Challenge sounds very interesting, but I am not ready for that yet. I need to better myself still. This leads me to another good point. What is the best way to better the driver?
The GSR does not compete against the Type R in the Honda Challenge or SCCA IT racing. In the Honda Challenge it runs H3 (Type R is H2) and it runs ITS while the Type R runs ITE. The GSR does extremely well in both of the classes it runs in. It has decent power, handles well and has good brakes. There are several of us on the board who are setting up, or have already set up Gen. 3 GSRs for racing.
In regards to autocrossing once again you shouldn't be too concerned with the Type R. Classing again is different.
[Modified by Cobra, 9:37 PM 12/13/2001]
In regards to autocrossing once again you shouldn't be too concerned with the Type R. Classing again is different.
[Modified by Cobra, 9:37 PM 12/13/2001]
I heard a '94 GSR finished within .5 second of a very similarly prepped '98 Type R at a recent time trial
.
And oh yeah, that was an extremely well driven Type R.
The answer is yes, its a good car.
The SCCA has it carrying too much weight in ITS right now. If (BIG if), they drop the weight, it'll run up front.
.And oh yeah, that was an extremely well driven Type R.
The answer is yes, its a good car.
The SCCA has it carrying too much weight in ITS right now. If (BIG if), they drop the weight, it'll run up front.
These guys seem to do well w/ GSRs
http://www.p-e-m.com/
http://www.p-e-m.com/
Trending Topics
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,360
Likes: 0
From: Arlington // Madison Motorsports, VA, USA
However, the GSR will never be a Type R and I am curious how much you can do to them before they are a waste of time. 1 My GSR is still worth a good amount of money and don't want to turn it into a 10k steel block. 2 The frame seems rather weak. I know the type R is significantly been straightened and this was done for a reason, the GSR is very creaky and I am curious how the GSR feel with large amoounts of stress on them from R tires and a full suspension. The bottom line is... is the CRX or EG that much better to make it worth selling my GSR and making a new car? I don't think I will ever race wheel to wheel, but I would imagine it could get frustrating always falling short of the type R's and hybrids.
For me the bottom line is that there's always gonna be someone who spent more money on their car and as a result have a faster car, whether its a hybrid, itr, or another GSR. But when it comes to competition its all about classing well and then being the better driver. Now in autocrossing the GS-R classes well and even in road racing with Honda-Challenge and ITS it classes well so your only problem is becoming a better driver (assuming you're prepped well for your class).
In short, the limits of the GS-R are well beyond what you should be spending on a car that you are not racing wheel to wheel. It is a capable car and prepped correctly it is a winning car.

"The tires are spec Hoosier D.O.T. rated 255-50-15 performance tires."
Gee Ess Are =

Will

-who thinks that those tires on a LS would make it road worthy!
"The tires are spec Hoosier D.O.T. rated 255-50-15 performance tires."
That has GOT to be a typo.. 255/50/15 would be a very tall tire, infact, hoosier doesn't make that size, its gotta be 225/50/15... Well, hoosier doesn't make that size either, 225/45/15 sounds right..
That has GOT to be a typo.. 255/50/15 would be a very tall tire, infact, hoosier doesn't make that size, its gotta be 225/50/15... Well, hoosier doesn't make that size either, 225/45/15 sounds right..
(edit) Grand Am cup regs show 225/45/15. Corey Wins!!
[Modified by Geezer, 2:32 PM 12/14/2001]
Ok so is everyone saying that I would have to be a damn good racer to utilize all of the GSR up. BTW I am not a good racer yet! I was thinking of building a CRX, but they are hard to find and parts are begining to become scarce. My next question: How is the best way to introduce yourself to timtrials? My problem is I am a firm believer in safety and I would like to place a cage in my car before I begin. Is this being to concerned? I am a liitle hesitant doing this because it still is in excellent shape/ it would be impossible to sell and its a daily use. I do not have a beater! Any suggestions? What do most people do?
Here's a quote from the SCCA's website, from T.C. Kline, road racer and autocrosser, about autocrossing:
"Autocrossers always make good road racers, but road racers do not always make good autocrossers." This statement was supported by the third concept he shared, which was, "I consider Solo to be, arguably, the best place to learn car control."
I've done 6 autoxes and 1 track school. I don't know about the quote since I'm not really experienced in either, but I learned more autoxing than I did on the track. Also, I probably would've been lost on track if I hadn't autoxed first. Autox is a great, cheap, pretty safe place to learn to drive your car near its limits. You won't really need a roll cage because most of the time, if you screw up, you spin out and kill cones.
I think it's a great way to learn to drive your car, uh...enthusiastically
"Autocrossers always make good road racers, but road racers do not always make good autocrossers." This statement was supported by the third concept he shared, which was, "I consider Solo to be, arguably, the best place to learn car control."
I've done 6 autoxes and 1 track school. I don't know about the quote since I'm not really experienced in either, but I learned more autoxing than I did on the track. Also, I probably would've been lost on track if I hadn't autoxed first. Autox is a great, cheap, pretty safe place to learn to drive your car near its limits. You won't really need a roll cage because most of the time, if you screw up, you spin out and kill cones.
I think it's a great way to learn to drive your car, uh...enthusiastically
Here goes my speech again...
If your car HAS to be you daily driver and/or it is "your baby," DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT start prepping it for the track. The track is damned rough on a car and it WILL get beat up. And yes, you will need to drill holes, etc. to mount a cage.
Too many people get halfway through this expensive process and realize that they are tearing up a car they don't want to, or can't afford to, tear up.
So... if you are concerned about these things, get a 2nd, cheaper car. The 1st and 2nd gen CRXs are both excellent choices.
If your car HAS to be you daily driver and/or it is "your baby," DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT start prepping it for the track. The track is damned rough on a car and it WILL get beat up. And yes, you will need to drill holes, etc. to mount a cage.
Too many people get halfway through this expensive process and realize that they are tearing up a car they don't want to, or can't afford to, tear up.
So... if you are concerned about these things, get a 2nd, cheaper car. The 1st and 2nd gen CRXs are both excellent choices.
If anyone is interested, we are selling our #41 Acura Integra GSR
#42 Integra already sold, (crx and civic sold), now #41 Planet Earth Motorsports Acura Integra GSR is for sale - ITS eligible - Fastest GSRs in the Country. Campaigned to the 2001 Grand Am Cup Compact Team, Driver and Manufacturer Championship - 2 Pro Victories (Phoenix and Daytona)
Team’s Best Times:
Daytona- 2:18.9
Homestead- 1:37.0
Phoenix- 1:11.9
Mid-Ohio- 1:41.7 (no keyhole)
Watkins Glen- 2:17.16
Virginia- 2:18.1 (long course) 1:43.4 (short course)
Road America- 2:42.6
Mugen Differential, * Stock Header & Straight pipe exhaust,* AEM cam gears * Fluidyne Radiator * Oil Cooler * Brake Ducts * Screened radiator shield, * Team Tech Seatbelts * Race Seat * Auto Meter Water Temp, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Gauges. * Set of 4 Volk lightweight wheels (9 pounds) with 225-45-15 Hoosiers * Hawk Brakes front and rear * Comptech Brake Lines * Comptech Spark Plug cover * Comptech Battery tie down bracket
* Removeable Wheel Spacers * Extra long Wheel Studs
* Mugen Fuel Pressure Regulator * Mugen Rear Swaybar
* Comptech Rear Swaybar Mount Brace. * Comptech Front Strut Tower Brace, * AEM Long Air Tube, with reflective wrap * Full Welded Rollcage, with NASCAR style Driver's side door bars, and rollbar padding
* Energy Suspension Bushings * Mugen Suspension Camber Links front and rear * Fire Suppression System. * Accusump System with Aeroquip hose and fittings. * Drybrake Refuling System with discriminator valve. * MOTON Triple Adjustable Shocks, front and rear. * Eibach springs * Lightweight Battery. * Camera Mount on roll cage * Momo Steering Wheel with Mugen adapter/extender * Front and rear tow hooks * Radio wiring harness, with push button on steering wheel
* Wide angle rear view mirror * Hood pins * Metal plate in place of glass sunroof
All this for $20,000 US Dollars
For Pictures - http://www.p-e-m.com/misc/41.html
Can be delivered to Daytona Test Days, or Daytona 24 Hour race weekend
Call Will @ 330-497-4484 ext 23 or Will@TheRaceSite.com
#42 Integra already sold, (crx and civic sold), now #41 Planet Earth Motorsports Acura Integra GSR is for sale - ITS eligible - Fastest GSRs in the Country. Campaigned to the 2001 Grand Am Cup Compact Team, Driver and Manufacturer Championship - 2 Pro Victories (Phoenix and Daytona)
Team’s Best Times:
Daytona- 2:18.9
Homestead- 1:37.0
Phoenix- 1:11.9
Mid-Ohio- 1:41.7 (no keyhole)
Watkins Glen- 2:17.16
Virginia- 2:18.1 (long course) 1:43.4 (short course)
Road America- 2:42.6
Mugen Differential, * Stock Header & Straight pipe exhaust,* AEM cam gears * Fluidyne Radiator * Oil Cooler * Brake Ducts * Screened radiator shield, * Team Tech Seatbelts * Race Seat * Auto Meter Water Temp, Oil Temp and Oil Pressure Gauges. * Set of 4 Volk lightweight wheels (9 pounds) with 225-45-15 Hoosiers * Hawk Brakes front and rear * Comptech Brake Lines * Comptech Spark Plug cover * Comptech Battery tie down bracket
* Removeable Wheel Spacers * Extra long Wheel Studs
* Mugen Fuel Pressure Regulator * Mugen Rear Swaybar
* Comptech Rear Swaybar Mount Brace. * Comptech Front Strut Tower Brace, * AEM Long Air Tube, with reflective wrap * Full Welded Rollcage, with NASCAR style Driver's side door bars, and rollbar padding
* Energy Suspension Bushings * Mugen Suspension Camber Links front and rear * Fire Suppression System. * Accusump System with Aeroquip hose and fittings. * Drybrake Refuling System with discriminator valve. * MOTON Triple Adjustable Shocks, front and rear. * Eibach springs * Lightweight Battery. * Camera Mount on roll cage * Momo Steering Wheel with Mugen adapter/extender * Front and rear tow hooks * Radio wiring harness, with push button on steering wheel
* Wide angle rear view mirror * Hood pins * Metal plate in place of glass sunroof
All this for $20,000 US Dollars
For Pictures - http://www.p-e-m.com/misc/41.html
Can be delivered to Daytona Test Days, or Daytona 24 Hour race weekend
Call Will @ 330-497-4484 ext 23 or Will@TheRaceSite.com
1) Yes, a GSR is a very good road race car...PERIOD! If I had it to do over again, I would have a GSR instead of a Type R. Why? The Type R really isn't that fast. I frequently have GSRs either pulling away from me or staying right beside me on straights (note: foot to the floor, in fourth gear, and the GSR is right beside me or pulling away).
2) What Scott (RoadRacer) said. The car WILL get dinged, scratched, etc. Rubber marks are very hard to get off and you will get them on your car. Cars in front of you will pick up rocks on course and they will hit your car (windshield, nose, hood, roof, etc). I guess what I'm trying to say is that a race car is going to get bumped, bruised, and cursed frequently.
2) What Scott (RoadRacer) said. The car WILL get dinged, scratched, etc. Rubber marks are very hard to get off and you will get them on your car. Cars in front of you will pick up rocks on course and they will hit your car (windshield, nose, hood, roof, etc). I guess what I'm trying to say is that a race car is going to get bumped, bruised, and cursed frequently.
As most people have said, the GSR is a fine race car. A much better choice the a Type-R due to cost, availabilty, and classing.
Best thing to do is prep your GSR for DSP Solo I. Run with your local region and go to a bunch of HPDE events on the side.
Best thing to do is prep your GSR for DSP Solo I. Run with your local region and go to a bunch of HPDE events on the side.
Ok so the GSR is worthy.... What is better to do? Should I keep the GSR as the daily driver or should I buy a beater and make the GSR a track only car? My GSR is in good shape and does have low miles, ok only 50k and its a 95.
Which do you enjoy more; racing, or daily driving? Would you race enough that you'd be able to stand driving a beater car that much? I'd make the GS-R a track bitch, possibly the "drive it to the track" kind, and get a CRX(or something else cheap but reliable) w/ some good suspension for spirited daily driving, unless I knew I'd only be tracking a few times a season. Just my $.02



