I have a 91 dx hb with a b16 swap. With the new motor the car handles very different. The car seems like it is way heavier then I expected up front and now that it got some power it doesnt really like to stop. I have nuespeed sport springs with KYB struts and bone stock front disc rear drum brakes. If you have any sugestions on applications you have tried or know of would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks

 

Upgrade to 90-91 EX front brakes (10.4 inch rotors) w/master cyliner (15/16 inch). Don't bother with the rear disk conversion as the rears do very little to help with braking.

Suspension Techniques Sway bars front and back. I have 4 way adjustable KYB shocks and it, the suspension, is everything i wanted. BTW i have stock LX (88-91) springs that are same ride height as the DX but much stiffer.

 

I Have to disc in the back just for a state of mind. I built the car real strong and just the look of having rear drums are slow

 

Agreed with the rear drums. Save your money though and look in local salvage yards. Checking ebay and such I found the swap for 300+\-. Locally the dude's gonna give me what I want for 125. As for suspension, I still have the d15 with skunk2 coils REAR ONLY and KYB AGX REAR ONLY. Handles like a dream. I've been in B16 swaps with sk2's and everything I've EVER driven with sk2's is a dream. as for susp. tech., I've heard NOTHING but good and I'm looking forward to completing my suspension setup with front struts (already have the coils) and susp. tech. Also, check for strut bars and maybe even lower the front a little bit (sk2's can do this up to 2" drop in front I believe). If you get a strut bar, make sure it will fit with your swap. Sk2 makes these as do DC Sports to name the top brands. It IS to my understanding though that a strut bar is a strut bar and company doesn't matter. For braking check into SS braided lines, upgraded pads (I suggest the hella-performing Hawk pads) and if you're gonna run those pads, make sure you have rotors to handle it as these will stop well, but wear rotors faster. I advise SLOTTED ONLY (CD'd tend to crack and bend and such) brembo's and power-slot. You may also want to drain your brake fluid and upgrade to DOT-4 or maybe even 5 depending on your driving. Check in your master cylinder while you're at it and make sure it's clean. Other than this I dont' know what else you can do to upgrade brakes and suspension.

 

the weight difference isn't all that much. and I pretty sure you've gone just as fast in the crx w/ the d then the b. 100mph is 100mph no matter what engine.

upgrade the pads and lines and call it good.

 

Correction...117mph with 213K miles on my D15. Of course it took about 4 miles to get there...LoL. I think it's all a matter of this kids ego/bragging rights and how much cash you wanna spend. Want good brakes for less? Pads alone should do it. Want a little more? Add brake lines. Cheaply more? DOT 4 fluids. Got the cash, wanna look good and/or do a lot of a constant braking? Get the rotors. The rear is all left up to you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by csc24 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">now that it got some power it doesnt really like to stop.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I noticed that too after my swap. Get integra rear trailing arms, DA mc/bb, 4040 proportioning valve, your choice of 91 ex, DA, or SiR knuckles.

You'll add about 15 lbs in the rear from installing DA trailing arms.