I just bought a '90crx and it wont start, it has a d16 engine swap. As i don't know much about cars since this is my first one i need help. This is what i checked so far; timed the campulley with the valves, and the distributor and the cables are in the right order, charged battery and it gets a spark, i didnt put the alternator back as i didnt think it mattered. The engine is definately getting compression and i thought it would at least fire once since im pretty sure its timed right. Also I have a bomz racing campulley and didnt know how to adjust it. I'm thinking 20degrees but where do you start from retard, or advanced.

 

did you verify that it's getting fuel?

 

it looks like its not getting fuel, so if i get a new relay will that fix the problem or do i probably need a new fuel pump?

 

what i did when my main relay went, was run an ignition right to the fuel pump wire, you can make the jump right at the relay. obviously dont leave it this way, but for your testing purposes, it will work. check the helms manual for the wire colors.

if you took out the rear interior theres a 4 pin harness, i forget the color but theres a wire that needs that ignition to fire up the fuel pump. after you make the jump like i said above, when you turn the key you should hear the pump turn on and hum. if you dont, then the pump is shot. also make sure the wire isnt shorted or damaged by using a multimeter and make sre youve got 12 volts AT THE PUMP.

unfortunatley though, if the pump primes and it wont start then you have a problem elsewhere in teh fuel delivery system. thats when youd start checking the injector pulse from the ecu.

when i first had a b16 put in my rex the person doing it was an idiot. the car ran for like a week, then died. the ecuu stopped sending injector pulse and i rewired the entire car. it sucked and im still not done. i hope this helps you get your car back on the road. good luck, and be careful when stripping back wires.

-mike

 

by the way, also make sure you have ground too. thats most likley not it, but worth noting. if memory serves theres a 12volt/ground for the pump, and a 12volt/ground for the fuel level indicator thing (technical term)

good luck.

 

your also going to kill that battery pretty fast without an alternator

 

What kind of ECU are u using??

If you can get a hold another ECU then do a quick swap to see if that is the cause/problem.

Next check to see if the main relay is getting power or if you hear the fuel pump priming.

Since you said that you just did a swap, how long has the motor being sitting with the fuel lines open(opened to the atmosphere)?? Injectors exposed to the air sometimes can seize preventing fuel flow.

What kind of injectors are on the fuel rail??

Oh yeah check the ECU fuse under the hood.

 

Damn this thread moves fast, I was just thinking about the solution and already 4 replies made.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it looks like its not getting fuel, so if i get a new relay will that fix the problem or do i probably need a new fuel pump?</TD></TR></TABLE>

does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key?

 

it doesnt prime(doesnt make any noise or vibration), and it doesnt get any voltage

 

i think it's your MAIN RELAY.. does your car start and when you try restarting it won't start anymore? if so.. the problem is the MAIN RELAY i really don't know

check this site out

http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/mainrelay.html

i hope this helps.