So the Helms manual says to apply engine oil to the bolt head flange and threads on the crank pulley bolt, I guess to keep it from seizing up in the future.

However one of my friends in the Acura service dept. said they have had several cars come in that had shot their crank pulley bolts off, even after they had been torqued to spec. He said I should put a little loc-tite on it.

So should I put oil on it, or Loc-Tite, or can I use both?

 

I wouldn't see the point of using both, really. The oil, which lubricates, would contradict the point of the loc-tite. Know what I mean?

Anywho, in my own experiences, I've only had 1 crank pulley fly off of a car. It was on a friends B16A. We apparently didn't tighten it very well. lol Other than that, I've never had one come loose without applying anything to the threads.

I suppose if I were to put anything on it, I would apply a light coat of anit-seize to the threads. After doing that, I would double check the bolt to make sure it doesn't come loose after running it once, and go from there.

Hope that was insightful to ya!

 

i usually use the loctite on the crank pully bolt when i dont have access to my impact gun. but dont go over board with it because if you ever need to get it off it can be a real pain in the doopah.

 

i just did my timing belt like 2 weeks ago. i tightened the bolt with an impact gun. i shouldnt need to apply any loctite if i hit the crank pullet bolt with an impact gun right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i just did my timing belt like 2 weeks ago. i tightened the bolt with an impact gun. i shouldnt need to apply any loctite if i hit the crank pullet bolt with an impact gun right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did exactly the same as you and mine has been fine for ~50k miles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So the Helms manual says to apply engine oil to the bolt head flange and threads on the crank pulley bolt, I guess to keep it from seizing up in the future.

However one of my friends in the Acura service dept. said they have had several cars come in that had shot their crank pulley bolts off, even after they had been torqued to spec. He said I should put a little loc-tite on it.

So should I put oil on it, or Loc-Tite, or can I use both?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just apply a little anti-seize to the threads, then use a torque wrench to torque it to stock specs.

 

Oil on the head of the bolt to get an accurate torque reading.

Maybe some blue loctite to prevent it from vibrating out.

However one note: I highly doubt those Acura techs are retorquing the nut. I'd bet money on it that they just zap it back on with the impact wrench. Flat rate work requires short cuts to make decent money, this is where I'd take it one of those short cuts.

Ask them next time how long they take to do the timing belt... I'd guess 1.5 hours and they probably get paid for 3.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stumpyf4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oil on the head of the bolt to get an accurate torque reading.

Maybe some blue loctite to prevent it from vibrating out.

However one note: I highly doubt those Acura techs are retorquing the nut. I'd bet money on it that they just zap it back on with the impact wrench. Flat rate work requires short cuts to make decent money, this is where I'd take it one of those short cuts.

Ask them next time how long they take to do the timing belt... I'd guess 1.5 hours and they probably get paid for 3.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Should I rephrase my post: Just apply a little anti-seize to the threads to keep it from seizing up, then use a torque wrench to torque it to stock specs.

In this case An Acura Tech isnt doing the job, so use a Torque wrench and torque it to stock specs. This should keep it from "vibrating" out.

 

There ain't no way that a 19mm torqued to 130ft/lbs is coming off. If it does, you know you torque wrench needs to calibrated.

Using loc-tite is a dumb idea, in my opinion. I recently had to remove my crank pulley bolt about a year after removing it and then using anit-seize torqued to spec when reinstalling. Let me tell you, that think was a bitch to get off.