help on lowering car with springs
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 0
From: City of fakeJDMs but their vT3s HiT H3ll4 L0uD...., usa
kuje the title says, my friend just got some springs. Its a 95 accord LX how do we install the springs. I need like exact directions. And is it easy to do? what do i need? If you can please help, thanks.
step one:
go to google
step two:
type in install spring accord
step three:
enter: search
and to answer your other q's
it's very very very easy to do, but it just takes time and dirty work.
you'll need at least..
jack
jackstand
basic socket rachet(size 10 12 14 17 etc)
spring compressor(can be rent for free in autozone)
hex key
a freind or two would help too
go to google
step two:
type in install spring accord
step three:
enter: search
and to answer your other q's
it's very very very easy to do, but it just takes time and dirty work.
you'll need at least..
jack
jackstand
basic socket rachet(size 10 12 14 17 etc)
spring compressor(can be rent for free in autozone)
hex key
a freind or two would help too
I was having trouble finding some good instructions on this too. I understand the frustration of no one directly answering your questions. Try going to http://www.accordinglydone.com Thats where I ended up finding the info that I needed. In all reality, its pretty simple, hardest part really is compressing the stock springs to get them off. All you really have to do, is unbolt the control arm from the strut/spring assembly, remove the brackets that are holding your brake lines in place (to reduce stress on the lines), next there is a nut that you have to undo (sorry that i dont know exactly what its called, but its on the boomerang shaped piece and it should be covered by a shield and have a cotter pin in it). Undo this nut and the three nuts on the strut tower (in the engine bay), and then use a rubber mallet and beat on the sucker until it breaks free. Its alot easier than using a pickle bar to break it loose. Just to help you identify what im talking about, there is or should be a rubber boot "on" the "connection" that you have to beat on after you take that nut off. Just be careful and pay attention to what your taking off of where and you should be fine. For the back there are only two nuts at the top of the strut tower and you only have to take out two bolts that connect to the (ahh crap, forgot what its called) anyways, like in the front, but after that the thing practically comes out on its own. To put the new springs on, just revers the process and you should be good to go. Do remember to cut your bumpstops though, if you dont, you wont have much travel in your strut and you will bottom out on alot of ****. GL, search, and if you really feel like it, leave your email and i can explain a bit more IF you cant find anything. Its out there, trust me, I had to find it once too.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,869
Likes: 0
From: City of fakeJDMs but their vT3s HiT H3ll4 L0uD...., usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TxTuner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) Lift the car and place on jack stands.
2) Remove the wheels.
3) READ THE ******* MANUAL!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess your the funny one in here. The car didn't come with a manual for your information
to Assassin247 for helping me out
2) Remove the wheels.
3) READ THE ******* MANUAL!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>
I guess your the funny one in here. The car didn't come with a manual for your information
to Assassin247 for helping me out
Guest
Posts: n/a
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bone Stock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess your the funny one in here. The car didn't come with a manual for your information</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you honestly that stupid??? Serious question.... Are you??? Go to any auto parts store and pick up a Chilton's.... Also known as a MANUAL!!!!
And yes, I am the funny one here. It says so in my sig
Are you honestly that stupid??? Serious question.... Are you??? Go to any auto parts store and pick up a Chilton's.... Also known as a MANUAL!!!!
And yes, I am the funny one here. It says so in my sig
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Assassin247 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was having trouble finding some good instructions on this too. I understand the frustration of no one directly answering your questions. Try going to http://www.accordinglydone.com Thats where I ended up finding the info that I needed. In all reality, its pretty simple, hardest part really is compressing the stock springs to get them off. All you really have to do, is unbolt the control arm from the strut/spring assembly, remove the brackets that are holding your brake lines in place (to reduce stress on the lines), next there is a nut that you have to undo (sorry that i dont know exactly what its called, but its on the boomerang shaped piece and it should be covered by a shield and have a cotter pin in it). Undo this nut and the three nuts on the strut tower (in the engine bay), and then use a rubber mallet and beat on the sucker until it breaks free. Its alot easier than using a pickle bar to break it loose. Just to help you identify what im talking about, there is or should be a rubber boot "on" the "connection" that you have to beat on after you take that nut off. Just be careful and pay attention to what your taking off of where and you should be fine. For the back there are only two nuts at the top of the strut tower and you only have to take out two bolts that connect to the (ahh crap, forgot what its called) anyways, like in the front, but after that the thing practically comes out on its own. To put the new springs on, just revers the process and you should be good to go. Do remember to cut your bumpstops though, if you dont, you wont have much travel in your strut and you will bottom out on alot of ****. GL, search, and if you really feel like it, leave your email and i can explain a bit more IF you cant find anything. Its out there, trust me, I had to find it once too.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Really there is NO reason at all to seperate the upper balljoint, all that does is complicate things. A few days ago I wrote a brief "How to" in a similar thread. Go to my post in this thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1004710
I'm not flaming you, I'm just suggesting the best way to do it.
-Sean
</TD></TR></TABLE>Really there is NO reason at all to seperate the upper balljoint, all that does is complicate things. A few days ago I wrote a brief "How to" in a similar thread. Go to my post in this thread: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1004710
I'm not flaming you, I'm just suggesting the best way to do it.
-Sean
No worries man (f22a), I know your not flaming me, I've seen some flamage. But when I went to do my springs, I couldn't get the strut assembly out without separating the upper ball joint (thanks for filling me in on what that was called btw, love to learn). Maybe I was just doing something wrong, who knows, but I had to separate that bad boy none the less. And to Bone Stock, no problem on giving you a hand, I know that I appreciate it when people help me out, just passing along the favor. Thanks to f22a for correcting me too, if I'm wrong, I like to know.
to HT
-Trump
to HT
-Trump
if you arent comfortable with doing it yourself, have a buddy that knows how do it then watch him and next time youll know what to do, thats wut i did
its been a while since i did it, but i remember having the same problem and i believe we just unbolted the upper control arm instead of dealing with the balljoint, after that, the removal/install was cake.
Just have a friend stand on the rotor.. Unbolting the control arm and pulling down is risky because you could pull the bearings out of the race in your axle.
I know - I've experienced it before
I know - I've experienced it before
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Gummiej
Suspension & Brakes
1
Jul 8, 2006 01:40 PM



