Posting this for my brother who is currently stationed in Kunsan Air Force Base in Korea. I remember when I saw this car for the first time in person and I was blown away, seriously this is not only a show quality car but it's a beast on the track.

Asking $12,000 OBO, you can see that alone the engine and suspension are worth that, I'm just throwing the rest in for free and

Contact: keakua17@yahoo.com for any further information.

Car:
1987 Ford Mustang (Cobra Conversion)

Engine:
331 Stroker motor,
CAT crank,
Fluidampner harmonic balancer,
JE flat top pistons,
DSS main support girdle,
Lunati camshaft,
Omega valves,
Omega 1.6 roller rockers
Motorsport 65mm Throttle Body,
Extrude Hone Cobra intake,
Edelbrock Stage III ported aluminum heads.
Griffin Aluminum radiator,
custom Diablo chip,
new wiring harness,
MSD ignition with boost retard,
A/C removed.
Hand polished supercharger, steering pump,
belt tensioner and plate, and hand painted custom
upper intake

Fuel:
Fuel-Safe 22 gallon race fuel cell,
2 Walbro 255lph pumps,
AN-8 braided line,
red Aeromotive fuel rails,
42# injectors,
Aeromotive adjustable regulator

Induction:
Vortech Supercharger S-Trim
10 rib 2.75" pulley for 15lbs of boost
K&N Filter,
Pro-M 77mm Mass air,
AFM power pipe,
Vortech Race Bypass Valve

Exhaust:
JBA shorty headers,
BBK high flow H-pipe,
Flowmaster mufflers with turn downs

Driveline:
Centerforce dual friction clutch,
Tremec 3550 5speed,
aluminum driveshaft with safety loop,
28 spline Auburn differential, 3.73 gears,
Moser axles with 5lug conversion,
T/A girdle

Suspension/Wheels:
Full $8000 Griggs GR-40R suspension with tubular
K-member, subframe connectors, strut tower brace,
panhard bar, low roll bar,
adjustable coil over shocks,
Koni Yellows,
Baer brakes,
cross drilled rotors
Original Cobra R 17" wheels,
Nitto 555R drag radials

Interior/Sound:
custom satellite radio stereo system
2 Kenwood 12" subs,
CD player,
Pioneer speakers, Cobra
Cobra R steering wheel,
Flowfit leather seats

Responses to some questions:
I am currently deployed (military) to S. Korea and everything was put in storage until I get back in a year. Unfortunately I didn't think to take my folder
that has all the receipts and paperwork. I am not sure if they will allow my family access to the storage to get all of it, but I am working on it. In the folder though are all the receipts from me, and the previous owner, as well as an insurance appraisell listing the car as worth over $40,000. The car has a straight
body, no accidents except getting backed into, and no rust anywhere. The paint is not faded anywhere and still glossy. However there is the chip on the back
right bumper, and it has flaked from around the dent in the front left fender. From 5 feet away the paint looks flawlessly new. It was last painted about 6
years ago. The steering wheel is an original Cobra R with the emblem impressed in the center of it. It has a dual sump Canton race pan, JBA shorty headers, BBK
high flow h-pipe with cats, and flowmaster mufflers. Because of the rear suspension additions in the back the pipes would not go straight out the back, so there are turn downs right after the muffler before the rear axel. The pipes you see in the picture are just for show, and do not actually attach to the exhause.
However they are long enough where you cant tell from looking at them. I just put in a Tremec 3550 tranny and it came with its own shifter. I was planning on
putting a Pro 5.0 in it, so I never got a shifter **** for it, and it is just the shifter and the handle. I mentioned the griggs suspension, but it also has an
aftermarket steering, tubular K-member, strut tower brace with adjustable coil over shocks, and Koni yellows front and back. It has a light bar, frame
stiffeners and a low roll bar that I haven't re-installed since putting in the stereo. I was going to have it repainted. The shoulder belts have been taken out and right now I have just 4" race lap belts, but I was planning on putting a red harness that
connects to the low roll bar. Brakes are Cross drilled Baer rotors, braided line and calipers with a Baer proportioning valve that is fully adjustable by a ****
in the engine compartment. Its got an aluminum driveshaft with safety loop, C-clip eliminator, 28 spline Auburn locker/ 3.73, Moser axels, and T/A
girdle. I designed a fuel system by cutting a hole in a race tank to drop in dual walbro 255lph in tank pumps that feed into a T connector and leave the tank
through an AN-8 braided hose and comes back through a AN-6 line. The tank and fuel system seal and work perfectly and the pumps/T fitting can be accessed by
removing about 10 bolts. I forgot the name of the tank, but it is the one that has all the foam inside to keep the fuel from sloshing around. Stereo is 2
Pioneer 12" subs with a custom box and 2 amps in the trunk. It also has pioneer speakers and tweeters throughout. When I rebuilt the motor I had the engine
bay painted, intake was hand painted, red aluminum aeromotive rails to match the fuel fittings and regulator, the supercharger, steering pump, radiator hold down, belt tensioner and plate all hand polished to a mirror finish, but when it was sitting for a year it tarnished in some places. Some polishing cream would clean it all back up. Hopefully that covers anything I didnt mention on Ebay. If I still had the
car these are the things that I needed to fix: Oil problem, cooling problem, and test the electrical system to see if there is a drain on the starter, or with everything done I just need a higher torque starter. That would get it back to running fine on a daily basis. Then I was going to get a custom intake
pipe because the one on there is just jimmy rigged since I got the AFM power pipe and bypass valve. It works, but blows off the intake at anything above 15#s
boost and cosmetically looks like its jimmy rigged. I actually used pieces from the friends Supra. I needed to get it back on the dyno to tune it, and I'm not
sure if I would keep the Diablo chip. Its a $600 custom chip, but with that motor and the adjustable regulator I have been told its better to tune it
without a chip. Other then getting the Pro 5.0 shifter I was considering getting an Edelbrock performer RPM II intake and more aggressive cam. The intake now is
Extrude honed, but I was looking to match a short runner intake with a cam. The cam now is a Lunati51014 with .500/.510 lift, 112 lobe sep, 218-226 exh.
duration. I have Omega 1.6 rockers and valves/ dual valvesprings, vavle seat retainers, and Crane timing chain. Thats all I can think of for now, sorry if the
email was a little random. If you can think of any more specifics that I'm missing, please ask. I am more than willing to be completely honest about what I have
done to the car, and what I planned to do to it. I really hate having to sell it as it's been my hobby for the last 6 years. However I am going to be stationed overseas for at least another 4 years, and since I started moving all over the place, the last 2 years I haven't been able to find the time to take care of it like I wanted. Its truly a beautiful car and I've seen cars with less modifications making over
600hp. I would love to see it go to someone who has the time, knowledge, and care to maintain it like it deserves. Thanks for your time,
Shane Terry

I broke a piston when the motor had a stock bottom end. I rebuilt it with a 4340 Cat crank, and JE flat top pistons with a DSS girdle after the block was decked and line honed. I also added an AFM power pipe, bypass valve, and did the whole fuel system. It used to have just a 190lph pump and 24#injectors with the
Vortech FMU. I replaced that with 2 255lph Walbro pumps feeding through AN -8 line to Aeromotive rails and adjustable regulator and 42#injectors. I also got
a little greedy and put on a 10 rib pulley system with a 2.5" blower pulley. After breaking in the motor I had a custom Diablo chip burned for it and was trying
to tune it on the dyno when I blew a head gasket. It was putting out over 18#s of boost when that happened with about a 9.5:1 compression ratio (go figure. Since
then I have had the heads o-ringed for Loc-wire Felpro gaskets and ported. They did alot of work around the valves to raise the cc and lower the compr. ratio
some. I also put back on the 2.75" pulley. Just got the car running after that and was having 3 problems. 1) Car running hot 2)oil pressure dropping off at low
rpms and 3)I'm getting a lot of electrical pull on the starter. 90% of the time it starts on the first try, but if I flood it and have to crank it awhile, it will
drain the battery on the 2nd attempt. I got shipped off to Korea (Air Force) 3 days after and did not even have time to diagnose any of the problems. Please let
me know if you have any more questions. Thank you
Shane