Hi guys,

I just got a set of ARP extended wheel studs. I found plenty of instructions on how to do the fronts, but not enough to do the rear drums on my CRX DX. So compared to doing the fronts, is the rear that much harder? what all would I have to remove to get to where the studs are at in the rear drum?

I am thinking about doing this without a press. So In order to get the studs back in I will use the impact, washer and nut method to get teh studs to seat. And I will grind down the front brake cover, and flatten a part of the stud head. I'm just not sure what I have to do about the install when it comes to the rear drums.

TIA

 

I haven't done the wheelstud thing, but knowing how the rear drums work, I would say that you would have to remove the wheelbearing and you'll have clear access to all the studs.

 

The rear drums are much easier than the front.

Remove the rear drum, then remove the brake shoes. After that, remove the metal cap that covers the hub nut. Remove hub nut and then remove the entire hub. Press/hammer out old wheel studs and install new ones.

That should be if (although that is all off the top of my head and its been a few months since I messed with rear drum brakes).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The rear drums are much easier than the front.

Remove the rear drum, then remove the brake shoes. After that, remove the metal cap that covers the hub nut. Remove hub nut and then remove the entire hub. Press/hammer out old wheel studs and install new ones.

That should be if (although that is all off the top of my head and its been a few months since I messed with rear drum brakes).</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would that require replacing the wheel bearings too? I read that replacing wheel bearings can cost around $100 on EACH corner. I want to avoid that if possible.

 

Instructions:
1. Jack car up and place jack stands
2. remove wheels
3. ensure parking brake is released and remove drums
4. remove hub caps (the golden cap)
5. find a big socket and remove centre nut
6. slowly pry the hub out of the trailing arm
7. IF the wheel bearings collasp, you'll need new ones. (fronts are roughly $50/ea, rears should be around that price)
8. hammer the studs out, hammer new ones in.
9. repack bearings with wheel bearing grease.
10. reinstall hub into arm using a hammer and a large socket.
11. reinstall hub nut. spin the hub around to ensure it moves smoothly, doesn't make any noise, and doesn't make 8 revolutions with a minor spin.
12. enjoy.

 

"doesn't make 8 revolutions with a minor spin"

is this supposed to be does? I would think free moving is a good thing.

 

Just a question, why are you installing extended wheel studs.

I put my front ones in thinking I needed them for big brakes, turned out I didn't. Seems like it's usually more hassle than they're worth.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRX7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just a question, why are you installing extended wheel studs.

I put my front ones in thinking I needed them for big brakes, turned out I didn't. Seems like it's usually more hassle than they're worth.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I was thinking about buying an extra set of wheels and tires for the drag strip. Since I may be running spacers to use wider wheels/tires the extended wheel studs are needed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MoonSha &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"doesn't make 8 revolutions with a minor spin"

is this supposed to be does? I would think free moving is a good thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Free moving is GOOD.

excessive movement is BAD. means the grease is broken down quite badly. it's suppose to have SOME resistance so when you spin the hub, it doesn't make a bunch of revolutions... only one or two.

 

Hey guys,

I just thought I'd bring this post back from the dead. I found out that the hobbdy shop where I do all my work has a hydraulic press, so it looks like I may do the stud install using that. I just a few more questions though.

From my understanding, if I remove the wheel hubs to press in/out the studs I will have to replace the wheel bearings. I've also heard somebody say that you can just repack it with some grease. Is there any way I can do this without replacing the wheel bearings?

Also, when I do the install and I have to remove the brake calipers, will I have to bleed the brakes when I re-install the brake system?

EDIT: I also forgot to ask, I want to buy an extra set of hubs, so that I can pres in the extended wheel studs before actually doing the install. What's a good price for a set of DX hubs? I only need the part that I press the studs into.

TIA

 

DX trailing arms sell for quite cheap. I remember i sold mine for 30$ and that included recently reaplced shoes, wheel cylinders, and SS braided lines. If it didnt have any of that stuff, i probably would have just given them away or tossed them. I wouldnt pay anymore than $50 for good condition ones.

edit: im referring to complete trailing arms, as u probably wont find just the hubs.