ok so i have the konis and ground controls on. now the front is very low and the rear is very high. the front, i can adjust because i can turn the adjusting ring, but the rear, they just wont move, even when raised up. the allen bolts have not been tightened on any of them.

also, when not compressed, like in the air, are the springs and the top hats suppose to have gap/not touching?

last, i just opted not to use the brake line brackets from the stock shocks. what part of the susspension do you zip tie them on to?

thanks!

i have pictures but ill just post them if someone needs them


Modified by 216.226.142.95:27016 at 9:44 PM 9/29/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 216.226.142.95:27016 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
last, i just opted not to use the brake line brackets from the stock shocks. what part of the susspension do you zip tie them on to? </TD></TR></TABLE>

DOOH you need that its what keeps the thing that hold the bottom of the shock from coming up. put the pics up they always help

 

i read a post by crx lee about and he said the brake brakets is not load bearing and doesnt keep anything from moving, its purely to secure the lines.

pics uploading

 

FRONT

notice the gap between the top spring, and the top hat

REAR







yes i dont have dust boots to cover the shock, but that will have to wait for a few weeks, i have to get around for school and work

 

Everything looks good.... raise the front and lower the rear.

You dont need dust boots, just the plastic rings that come with the shocks. The gap between the fornt springs and upper mount at full droop is normal. It will be fine on the ground.

You dont need the brake line brackets - although I *highly* recommend using them.... zip tying the brake lines up isnt always a good idea, as the lines can rub on suspension parts and fail.

I made a Koni install post a while back... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=891136

 

ive read that post, printed, and used it as referance. i even got the hf impact for ease of taking off bolts. i opted for the non cordless one though. so i guess im set, except that i cant move the perch on the rears.

 

hmm your not supposed to have equal amount of threads front to back, if thats what you did/

why can't you move the rear pearchs?

 

the perches are shorter sleeves in the front, longer in the rear.
as for the rears not moving, i just installed it, nothing on the perch tightened. the only thing i did was move the perch up before install because i concerned about the springs drooping when the car is on jack stands.

 

Spring droop on jackstands is fine.

Lower the rears

 

only if i could move the perches as they are, only if i could.

 

Why cant you move the perches?

I'm missing something.

 

nothing really, i suppose i installed them with the perch too high and thers too much pressure on it as it is. i might have to take it iff and adjust it out of the car if i have to.
brake bleeding/flush with ATE still pending until this is done.

notice the new rotors paired with axxis ultimates

 

i always intall coil over on dampers with the pearchs all the way down it makes everything easier

 

my way is install error then learn. ha!

 

So is there any gap above the rear springs at full droop, or is there pre-tension on the spring at full droop? If there is a gap, you should be able to turn the perch easily, unless it's siezed (assuming the bolt is loose). If there is pre-tension on the spring, well then that's why you can't turn it, and that's also why the rear is very high. At worst case just take the shocks back off, take off the top hats to remove the tension from the spring, and lower the perches, then put it back together and adjust as necessary.

Also keep in mind that you will not be able to go as low in the rear since you got 8" springs all around. When I ordered my springs I was going to get equal length but GC recommended 8" for the front and 7" for the rear.

I also HIGHLY recommend you put those brake line brackets on the front shocks. Maybe they're not load bearing with stock suspension, in theory, or maybe they are, I don't know for sure, but I'm almost CERTAIN that you will need them with an aftermarket stiffer suspension. With stiffer springs, the suspension takes ALOT more abuse over rough roads than with the softer stock suspension. Think about it, if you don't use the brackets, then you're relying solely on that 14mm pinch bolt to squeeze the top of that shock fork, and bear the whole weight of the car merely through a friction fit (the weight on that corner anyway). I once easily stripped out half the threads from the threaded hole on the shock fork when tightening the bolt w/ a 1/2" ratchet instead of a torque wrench, preventing the bolt from tightening fully. It wasn't a major problem, and I was able to drive it for a few days until I replaced the shock fork, because I had the brackets on there, which the forks were able to bear against. If that bolt comes loose for whatever reason, then all you've got is that little indent in the shock body where the pinch bolt goes to keep the shocks from slipping down through the forks and hitting the axles, and I can tell you that indent by itself won't last long. I know it can and will happen, as it did on my friend's hatchback some years ago, from just driving on the street.

By using the bracket, it distributes the weight evenly around the shock body as it sits on the fork, instead of the fork merely squeezing the shock body to hold it in place.

It shouldn't be too hard to get the brackets off the stock shocks with some WD40 and a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. They came off fairly easily on my car. Why would you not want to do the install correctly?

 

You do not need the brake line bracket for load bearing on the bottom of the shock.

Period. I've done it. Others have done it. On track with 600-800 lb springs. I recommend it because i do not like zip tying brake lines.

 

okay well I have personally seen them slip through the fork which is why I recommend them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PatrickGSR94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">okay well I have personally seen them slip through the fork </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm guessing they werent lined up or torqued properly.

 

one way you might be able to lower the rear perch without removing the coilover: with parking brake engaged and the rear up on jack stands, have a friend stand on the lugs on one of the rear tires. this will cause the wheel hub/lca to drop some, relieving some of the pressure on the spring, and maybe allowing you to spin the perch. if that doesn't work, try disconnecting the swaybar endlinks, and repeating the process. if it still doesn't work, then remove the coilover and relieve the preload before reinstallation. i find it easier to install the coilover if you have the perch at the lowest setting, that way you can compress the coilover into a tighter unit to fit it in there with minimal difficulty.

good luck.

 

Or just take a big *** prybar and force the trailing arm down....

Thats what I do.

 

its been lowered last night, but not low enough. there is still a good 5 inches or so of gap between the tire and fenders. i just said screw it and took the bolt that goes to the lower control arm and went from there. more things to do including fixing a dip stick toob with honda bond that came off for some odd reason.

 

FIVE inches from the tire to the fender???? Jeez I don't think mine would go that high even at the highest perch adjustment. Man I want to see some pics, can you post some of the tire clearance and also maybe some up under the car showing where the perch is, etc?

I'm running 7" springs in back, and the Koni snap ring is on the middle setting. This puts the GC perch comfortably in the middle to get the tire exactly even w/ the fender edge. And that's with 195/50-15 tires, as well.

 

haha
look at the picture i posted a few replies back, its like that high but a little lower. at the moment, its about parallel with the fender or maybe tucking a few mm or so.

is it ok to adjust one side at a time? for some reason, when i set the perch at = spacing on the left and on the right, the right side of the car is still somewhat higher. weight distribution maybe? i had the same problem when i had h&r sport where the whole passenger side front and rear was higher than the left. fubared suspension, i dont know.

this is taking forever to finish!
i bed in the brakes last night with the dipstick toob missing.
bled/flush the brakes today.
ordered a new distick toob and it wont come monday so the car is on jackstands until then.
then tires, i still have to call around to see who has azenis on stock locally since my tires are bald.

it sucks so bad when you have a 2 car garage but theres a support in the middle to seperate it into 2 different doors. you have space on one side, but the other you are crampped! then there is work, classes, commute to campus, test, blah blah. i should have taken it to a shop but wheres the fun in that?