I did a swap 2 months ago at a shop, and now, i finally know that the knocking sound is rod knock... the shop's owner said that it's no biggie, but everyone else tells me that my engine will blow eventually...

it's a moderate knock... only knocks moderately when the car is cold (not warmed up)

Is it that bad??? Any advise on what to do?? the shop owner got the engine or me from canada...

 

what engine is it?

 

btw, the sound level of the knock is hardly noticible..

(gotta stick ur ears really close to the motor in order to hear it..

 

b16a2

 

Rod bearings. Just change them befor it gets worse

 

how much labor is it going to cost me..

 

Rod Rocks!

 

lol

 

i was thinkning of doing the same thing, but i was told that you cant just throw in new bearings. cause i know i could do it in about an hour from the bottom with the motor in the car.

 

i thought that u have to pull the crank out...

 

all you have to do is rotate the crank around as you pull the bearings. and pull the plugs so your not trying to build compression. can someone confirm if im wrong.

 

Go back to the shop and tell them to fix it..... thats a grip of work.

 

but they keep on tellin me that it's normal since it's an old engine...
and if i want it fixed, they want labor from me..

 

ok i talked to my dad, who is an ase certified mechanic and he said it is possible to replace the rod bearings without tearing down the motor. he said hes done it several time in his career and it can be done. he said 1st: drain out about a quart of oil and put in some ATF, then run it for 15-20 minues then drain all the oil and pull the pan. and just go through each rod and inspect the bearing and see if you can find one thats worn more than the rest, he said its common on cars with about 70-80k.

 

Be safe, replace all 4.

Whoa, 70-80k? How about the ones with stock bearing at 350k?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dimi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Be safe, replace all 4.

Whoa, 70-80k? How about the ones with stock bearing at 350k?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Seriously. I love my no-kocking OEM factory freak d16z6 at 250k hard *** miles .

 

rod knocks are bad fix immediately

 

if you replace the bearings, you will have that problem come back in a short time. First of all the clearances will be bad (better then it used to be but bad). Plus I bet you that that crank got already scoring on it so it will eat those bearings like no tommorow. And third of all if one of your bearings goes out, you start loosing oil pressure and that starts ruining other bearings (rod, and main).

You can do this if you wonna sell the car ASAP and make sure that you sign the "as is" paper.
I don't recomend doing this for the car that you are planing to keep. Just do it right especailly if it's a b series.

If the knock is really bad and you are 100% sure that it's a rod knock, tell the shop owner either get my engine totaly rebuilt, or get a new one (if he warranted it ofcourse). He is feeding you BS if it really is a rod knock.

 

my rod knock started in one day and went to ******* up the motor in the same day

started the car, went to down town to go to some places... noticed a slight knocking sound around 4k rpms... went home...listened to motor... checked a couple things and heard the sound coming from deep in the engine... went to a local shop to ask about it... they said its a rod knock...

they said they cant tell how bad it is but it should get fixed asap...

i figured its only slight... ill drive it for a little bit more... about 10 minutes later all i heard was metal clanging against metal in the engine... no power in the car... it was fucked

swapped the motor out later...

just saying that it started and ended in one day... be careful

 

hahah bauley!

 

mines been just a slight very quiet knock since i got the motor, never any worse. the only question i have is when looking for the bearings, what color to use, this is from the honda parts dept.

Which part would you like?


Part Number Description Price You Save Shopping Cart
13211-PE1-003 BEARING A, CONNECTING ROD (BLUE) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13211-PE1-004 BEARING A, CONNECTING ROD (BLUE) (TAIHO) $8.80 $2.07
13212-PE1-003 BEARING B, CONNECTING ROD (BLACK) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13212-PE1-004 BEARING B, CONNECTING ROD (BLACK) (TAIHO) $8.80 $2.07
13213-PE1-003 BEARING C, CONNECTING ROD (BROWN) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13214-PE1-003 BEARING D, CONNECTING ROD (GREEN) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13215-PE1-003 BEARING E, CONNECTING ROD (YELLOW) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13216-PE1-003 BEARING F, CONNECTING ROD (PINK) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13217-PE1-003 BEARING G, CONNECTING ROD (RED) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13217-PE1-004 BEARING G, CONNECTING ROD (RED) (TAIHO) $8.80 $2.07

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Naturally Aspirated &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is it that bad??? Any advise on what to do?? the shop owner got the engine or me from canada...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Probably came from Osaka or one of their cronies up there in Montreal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by a1320honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mines been just a slight very quiet knock since i got the motor, never any worse. the only question i have is when looking for the bearings, what color to use, this is from the honda parts dept.

Which part would you like?


Part Number Description Price You Save Shopping Cart
13211-PE1-003 BEARING A, CONNECTING ROD (BLUE) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13211-PE1-004 BEARING A, CONNECTING ROD (BLUE) (TAIHO) $8.80 $2.07
13212-PE1-003 BEARING B, CONNECTING ROD (BLACK) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13212-PE1-004 BEARING B, CONNECTING ROD (BLACK) (TAIHO) $8.80 $2.07
13213-PE1-003 BEARING C, CONNECTING ROD (BROWN) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13214-PE1-003 BEARING D, CONNECTING ROD (GREEN) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13215-PE1-003 BEARING E, CONNECTING ROD (YELLOW) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13216-PE1-003 BEARING F, CONNECTING ROD (PINK) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13217-PE1-003 BEARING G, CONNECTING ROD (RED) (DAIDO) $8.80 $2.07
13217-PE1-004 BEARING G, CONNECTING ROD (RED) (TAIHO) $8.80 $2.07 </TD></TR></TABLE>


there are markings on the block that tell you what color bearings to use. i dont have that info here with me at work but ill look it up at home tell you where you to look. or you can go and get last months copy of honda tuning where they rebuilt their tegs engine. it has a good write up in there too

 

oh, for real, i have it so ill look and see, actualy i kinda remember tht in honda tuning and i dont think they tell you where to look they just say what theyre using, but ill look.

 

how much would the labor cost to fix rod knocking? at a good shop...

wouldnt it be a good idea to rebuild the engine while youre at it?