whats up this is basically what im asking

HAVE: b20 block
WANT to put in: CTR pistons (standard bore)
USING: b16 head and stock OEM head gasket
WHAT DO I NEED: to do to use these pistons... as far as changin the crank, piston rings, water pump, oil pump, etc.
AND: is the piston to deck clearance going to be enough to use the CTR pistons with the b16 head... if so could i use a gsr head instead

NEED TO KNOW ASAP!!

 

there is no way u can use ctr pistons in a b20 block ctrs only come in 81mm and 81.25mm a b20 is 84mm

 

well now i know...... lol..... what piston can i use in it other then the stock b20 one... no OEM pistons will fit?...... if not what piston should i go with like JE or something?

 

i have 12:1 pistons on my b20 i heard any higher cant be rran on pump gas

 

sick... what kind of pistons though do you have? like brand

 

you have 3 options, b20b 8.8:1 b20z 9.6:1 or aftermarket in any cr you want

 

i know the specs on stock b20 blocks...... im still looking for answers to the original question, water, oil pumps, crank, rods etc... what HAS to be changed

 

nothing has to be changed.....do a search this has been covered many many times before!

 

You'll need a vtec water pump, timing belt of the same model GSR, TYPE-R ect. I would also reccommend a VTEC oil pump as well. I wouldn't keep any of the stock internals either. eagle rods are good along with weisco pistons(thats what im running now) Oh and get the block sleeved or youll be sorry later if you rev over 7000 too much.

 

wrong....you don't need a vtec oil pump!!!
wrong again....vtec and b20 oil pump are same part number...tell me why you need bahtec oil pump....

wrong again.....you dont' have any problems reving over 7000 if you keep the bore at 84mm

 

yea.... sleeving a block is quite expensive also... so if i dont have to do it id rather not.... but obv. itd be better off with sleeves, what about a block guard or something would that give it a little more support?......and ok if i go with the rods and pistons... what can i rev it out to and be safe.... cause i know the stock crank isnt to strong.. like 8,000 rpms and be ok?

 

yes go with block guard
if you go to aftermarket rods and pistons rev on!!

 

okay coming from experience

I would recommend this

rev nothing more then 8500 with some what a build block
but if u get all the stuff to keep it together then u maybe able to go to like 10 grand like Lesile Durst does down the track(but like u said u ain't sleeving it)

so get eagle, crower, probe or skat rods w/3/8" arp bolts
pistons I would say JE, ARiAS or CP pistons which seem to be popular

change the water and oil pump and timing belt to a vtec as u are running a vtec head which will need more oil and water (keeping it together!)

I hope this can help unlike others on here confusing u

 

That pretty much sums it up.. and know it didnt confuse me... lol... so im pretty much looking at a grand in parts + the block.... i have to buy, no worries its basically a winter project anyway thanks for the help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krazie1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">rev nothing more then 8500 with some what a build block
but if u get all the stuff to keep it together then u maybe able to go to like 10 grand like Lesile Durst does down the track(but like u said u ain't sleeving it)
or, rev to 84 on a stock block and call it a day- you probably won't make power past 83-85 unless you have some good head work and some pistons.

change the water and oil pump and timing belt to a vtec as u are running a vtec head which will need more oil and water (keeping it together!)
just change the water pump- as long as the rest of the parts don't have high mileage, don't worry about them. You're not a pro racer so it won't get the abuse that most of those motors do
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Block guards do absolutely nothing but restrict coolant flow. they are junk. Thats just what a B20 needs is to get the stock paper thin sleeves hotter that way they will break faster. Good job chad reccommending a block guard, you must be a master engine builder and a genius to boot for that one.

 

ok so no block guard?...... cause i cant really afford to get it sleeved even though i know thats the way to go

 

You arent really going to need anything on the block at first, if you are just looking for a basic B20vtec.

Oil lines, different headbolts/headstuds (get some headstuds the first time around), and instead of getting the dowel pin holes drilled out, get the Golden Eagle dowel pins.

You should be fine, if you want to rev a little higher with some assurance get some arp rod bolts.

 

i know.. i dont NEED to change anything.. but id rather just put pistons and rods for some extra assurance with the motor not blowing up on me....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by widebodyjaeg16b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know.. i dont NEED to change anything.. but id rather just put pistons and rods for some extra assurance with the motor not blowing up on me....</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well if i isnt built right, there is a better chance of it not performing as well/blowing up.

 

of course... id get it built professionally, especially if im gunna spend the $$ on that **** in the first place.

 

and just for the record what should it run, usings just i/h/e and a 2000 si tranny in a dx bubble?? any ideas?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by widebodyjaeg16b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cause i can't really afford to get it sleeved even though i know thats the way to go</TD></TR></TABLE>

and then you say-
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by widebodyjaeg16b &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">of course... id get it built professionally, especially if im gunna spend the $$ on that **** in the first place</TD></TR></TABLE>


talk about contradictions- if you have enough cash to have it "professionally" built then you should have enough to get it sleeved- which is still a bad idea any ways... CRVT are known to drop sleeves when they have been replaced-

 

who said i was paying for it to get built... contradictions... yea........ so overall everyone dosent have a agreement on whether or not sleeves would be good in a b20.... obv. they must be better then just a stock block, but like previously stated im not reving past 8500... either way.

 

exactly, which is why you don't really need to do anything to it-