another GSR cluster question...i know...
i am dong the GSR conversion cluster and have a question....on my stock 90 si cluster there are three plugs...on on the left one on the right and a small blue plug in the center.....my question is this: do i connect that too and is it listed in the diagram or do i just use the two bigger plugs? i need some insight. i have the vss already wired up and just need to clarify this before i start cutting and soldering. oh and i can remove the old cable for the old vss too right? because it will be useless if i dont...correct? sorry but i just need to know!
1. the wires in the small blue clip are not used.
2. DO NOT CUT THE WIRES
strip away some insulation and separate the wires in the middleand make a hole. then strip the end of the gsr wire and run it through the hole and wrap it around. tape it up and hold it with a tie strap. This way you can KEEP YOUR STOCK PLUGS

2. DO NOT CUT THE WIRES
strip away some insulation and separate the wires in the middleand make a hole. then strip the end of the gsr wire and run it through the hole and wrap it around. tape it up and hold it with a tie strap. This way you can KEEP YOUR STOCK PLUGS

so the three vss wires run in place of where the cable for my cable driven vss goes now...seems like it should be easy enough. what about making the cluster fit, stay, and look good?...any luck on that..i still dont unerstand how its going to stay in there without any bolts holding it in place. does anyone know how to make the cluster fit so all the gauges are visible?...i saw some guy do it but he didnt go into detail. any info would be great...planning on doing it this weekend.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gringo7718 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. the wires in the small blue clip are not used.
2. DO NOT CUT THE WIRES
strip away some insulation and separate the wires in the middleand make a hole. then strip the end of the gsr wire and run it through the hole and wrap it around. tape it up and hold it with a tie strap. This way you can KEEP YOUR STOCK PLUGS

</TD></TR></TABLE>
That sounds like some GREAT wiring advice.
Nothing like having solid connections
If you're going to do something like that, just solder it in. You can always snip the wire later on. At least that way you'll have sound connections.
FAKEJDMEF8, yes, you can completely remove the speedo cable.
2. DO NOT CUT THE WIRES
strip away some insulation and separate the wires in the middleand make a hole. then strip the end of the gsr wire and run it through the hole and wrap it around. tape it up and hold it with a tie strap. This way you can KEEP YOUR STOCK PLUGS

</TD></TR></TABLE>That sounds like some GREAT wiring advice.
Nothing like having solid connections
If you're going to do something like that, just solder it in. You can always snip the wire later on. At least that way you'll have sound connections.
FAKEJDMEF8, yes, you can completely remove the speedo cable.
Looks just like the handy craftsmanship of the local stereo/alarm chain around here.
Has anybody thought about labeling and depinning the connectors?
Then you can have a completely sound connection - no cutting or solderng.
You could also swap back to your original plugs if you really need to.
Has anybody thought about labeling and depinning the connectors?
Then you can have a completely sound connection - no cutting or solderng.
You could also swap back to your original plugs if you really need to.
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Yes you can depin the clips but the metal pins on the ends of the crx wires are to big for the gsr/civic clips. (I did try this) You can cut the metal pins off of the crx wires and put the smaller ones on to use with the gsr/civic clips but if you ever wanted to switch back then you would have to re do everything anyway.
-James-
-James-
those wires were all taped up nicely after that pic was taken and not one was even so much as pinched. came out very well imo. seriously, dont you think you are getting a little extreme? it would be nice but in the real world, some people here dont know how to unpin 5 wires for a swap. besides once you unpin the wires you have a pin-and you cant solder so you propose...????...wraping the wire around the pin and taping???? hahaha. its not like the guages are even accurate anyways...the only thing that is calibrated is the spedometer. and yes i work at a stereo shop MECP certified installer LOL
so soes anyone have any ides on making the gauges all viewable...what do i have to cut or dremel...any pics???
and no the teg cluster will read fine...mine is just in KM
and no the teg cluster will read fine...mine is just in KM
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gringo7718 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">and yes i work at a stereo shop MECP certified installer LOL
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That makes it even worse because you know better. I'm trying to rag on you or diss you, but dang.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FAKEJDMEF8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so soes anyone have any ides on making the gauges all viewable...what do i have to cut or dremel...any pics???</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have to ask, you haven't even tried it. Stick it in there and get it mounted how you want. From there you'll see where you need to trim, where you need to add etc.
It requires tons of test fitting, lots of cutting, lots of patience and a decent degree of fabrication skills.
I'm trying to post a picture of mine, but we-todd-did is being gay and won't load up. I'm making a mold of my custom bezel that I'll sell should anybody want it. It's for a sedan, though.
</TD></TR></TABLE>That makes it even worse because you know better. I'm trying to rag on you or diss you, but dang.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FAKEJDMEF8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so soes anyone have any ides on making the gauges all viewable...what do i have to cut or dremel...any pics???</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have to ask, you haven't even tried it. Stick it in there and get it mounted how you want. From there you'll see where you need to trim, where you need to add etc.
It requires tons of test fitting, lots of cutting, lots of patience and a decent degree of fabrication skills.
I'm trying to post a picture of mine, but we-todd-did is being gay and won't load up. I'm making a mold of my custom bezel that I'll sell should anybody want it. It's for a sedan, though.
Did you ever completely finish yours?
The last pic I saw was unpainted.
Out of all the ones I have seen you have the best looking one by far
It really paid off that you took the time to cutom fab the bezels to fit together.
The last pic I saw was unpainted.
Out of all the ones I have seen you have the best looking one by far
It really paid off that you took the time to cutom fab the bezels to fit together.
It's pretty much finished, but it's unpainted.
The more I thought about it, the more I realized that painting it wouldn't give it the look and texture I wanted.
So I've been looking into mold-making the past few weeks and I'm probably going to make a mold of it, and then cast another one that is solid plastic. I can probably even get the color pretty close to the stock one.
The more I thought about it, the more I realized that painting it wouldn't give it the look and texture I wanted.
So I've been looking into mold-making the past few weeks and I'm probably going to make a mold of it, and then cast another one that is solid plastic. I can probably even get the color pretty close to the stock one.
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