I'm trying to make the decision on the down pipe and what to get some input from people that do work on their own cars or work at shops - here goes. This is for D,B and H series headers

Most headers on the market ( probably all ) come with a flange to bolt to the existing piping and are able to take the stock "donut" gasket. A few "custom" headers like Bisimoto, AN-R, Prspeed, Eric's Racing, Exospeed just to name a few come with a sort of slip over tube and you are to use your own flange from stock ? header with the donut gasket.

Every swap done in a civic requires the tech to rotate one of the two flanges either the header side or the exhaust side and in most cases they need to been lenghtened. So finally heres the question...which is preferred

it would come like DC and rotate the flange your self and use the stock donut gasket

come with a slip over pipe that allows you to change the length but you would have to do the flange

any other ideas would be great




Modified by RageDzine at 9:43 AM 9/29/2004

 

I think a type of slip design would be pretty nice to have if you were to offer a few different possible options for slip fit ends. Somthing along the lines of the following options:

1. Slip fit with stock type flange using stock type donut gasket for mating to cat
2. Slip fit with straight pipe, longer to mate to 3 bolt flange at back end of cat (would remove cat totally from system)
3. Slip fit with turn down end (for open header use at the track)

In addition, a slip fit as mentioned would work well if you are going to have a collector bigger than a stock collector, say 2 1/2" or 3" as then you could offer a reducer or straight design to accomodate the size exhaust the customer is running. Just a couple thoughts off the top of my head.

 

more input please --

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RageDzine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">more input please --</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

flex pipe. But who am I?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">come with a slip over pipe that allows you to change the length but you would have to do the flange</TD></TR></TABLE>

Its not that hard to make a flange. i think you'd be able to sell more headers if they did bolt up to stock or "custom (Greddy, DC, Tanabe) exhaust systems though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think a type of slip design would be pretty nice to have if you were to offer a few different possible options for slip fit ends. Somthing along the lines of the following options:

1. Slip fit with stock type flange using stock type donut gasket for mating to cat
2. Slip fit with straight pipe, longer to mate to 3 bolt flange at back end of cat (would remove cat totally from system)
3. Slip fit with turn down end (for open header use at the track)

In addition, a slip fit as mentioned would work well if you are going to have a collector bigger than a stock collector, say 2 1/2" or 3" as then you could offer a reducer or straight design to accomodate the size exhaust the customer is running. Just a couple thoughts off the top of my head.</TD></TR></TABLE> what he said sounds perfect to me

 

I always like one that bolts up to the stock location or utlilizes a V-band flnage i dont prefer 3 or 2 bolt clamps

 

If it means anything, I run the Bisimoto D series header. As you know it has a slip on design with the 2.5 outlet slip on downpipe. I originally purchased a 2.5" s2000 donut, with plans to use the oem style ball/socket/spring style flange. When I was ready to install the header, I took the header to quite a few diff fab/welding shops to get the flange taken care of. Incidently, all the fab guys said they would prefer the use of a quality braided style flex tube. My fab guy cut a good amount of the slip tube downpipe, installed a flex in the location, then on the other end of the flex, used a stub of tubing, which was then attached to a basic flange, which bolts do my hi flow cat (my stock oem was outta the question anyway due to the 2.5" diameter of the Bisi header, and I couldnt find a jdm R cat). So far, this set up has worked great.

My only recommendation for the slip style joint:
Where the tubing slips on, use some sort of fastening arrangement to keep the slip joint from pulling away.

P.S. I am not an expert fabrication guy, or custom header builder. I am simply posting what has worked good for me. I notice dave at smsp retains the ball socket spring style flange so maybe he can chime in on his choice for that.

Jason, I commend you for actually giving a damn about the D, past and present. Its great to have more hardcore performance parts choices for such a rejected engine. .


Modified by JaeOne3345 at 6:02 AM 9/28/2004

 

it seems the majority of the tuners out there that are getting play in this high perf header segment are offering slip fits and the like to cater to the guys who 1. are willing to fabricate around the header and see it as the foundation, despite the inconvenience, and 2. alot of these people, like dave SMS and hytech feel the same way, that the collector needs to be a certain length per application whether it works with mass market "bolt-on" exhaust or not...
Honestly, I have discussed this with manufacturers before and the ideal solution would be to offer two versions, one with slip fit and one with standard flange. THis idea works especially well if you are not shelving these pieces in volume and are assembling them as needed or per order-

 

i fixed the thread so that it can stay

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i fixed the thread so that it can stay</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thank you - we really want to know what people think of the slip tube style.

 

i was and am a fan of the slipjoint style

 

I would bet dollars to doughnuts that is a hytech header!!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would bet dollars to doughnuts that is a hytech header!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya think -- very nice

 

John is deifntley one of the premier ehader builders in the so cal area along with *ahem* ourselves even though we rarley do work for the public. Note sarcasm is included

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">John is deifntley one of the premier ehader builders in the so cal area along with *ahem* ourselves even though we rarley do work for the public. Note sarcasm is included</TD></TR></TABLE>

With a name like Burn's and the people and knowledge in that building how could they not look and work perfect. But since you dont do alot of public stuff us little guys need to try somethig. We use your stuff on the Stainless headers Would you guys be able to make a "factory style" flange that takes the 2.5 donut?

 

burns makes some great collectors...and this is same crazy welding skills

 

believe me I know --- im more interested in the flange to the exhaust and how we want to do that part

 

so are those "D" shaped primaries actually better for flow???? How much extra does that cost from Hytech??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrMike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so are those "D" shaped primaries actually better for flow???? How much extra does that cost from Hytech??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've seen that on a few race bikes around...4 cylinder of course...

it's motorcycle technology-

 

Without going into a big debate about the D shaped primaries if you start off with the proper size tube coming off the port i can't see how it wouldb be of benefit.

If anyhting it is going to increse the frictional losses inside the tube

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I've seen that on a few race bikes around...4 cylinder of course...

it's motorcycle technology-</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eLusive ek4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Without going into a big debate about the D shaped primaries if you start off with the proper size tube coming off the port i can't see how it wouldb be of benefit.

If anyhting it is going to increse the frictional losses inside the tube</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://micron-exhaust.com/store/prodserpent.htm

 

i thought it sped up the bottom part of the exhaust gases

i'll go talk to my buddy in the hydrology dept...maybe he can shed some light even though its not water.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by builthatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

http://micron-exhaust.com/store/prodserpent.htm</TD></TR></TABLE>

that saved me some time. thanks jarod