if i have eibach springs and tokico shocks.. is a camber kit really needed???
pro-kit or sportlines?
most people say that 2 inches is about where you start to need a camber kit, but from what i've seen, it's more like 1.5 inches or so. then again, a lot of it is preference.
after installing the springs, allow a couple weeks for them to settle, then get your alignment done. the printout will show the amount of camber.
most people say that 2 inches is about where you start to need a camber kit, but from what i've seen, it's more like 1.5 inches or so. then again, a lot of it is preference.
after installing the springs, allow a couple weeks for them to settle, then get your alignment done. the printout will show the amount of camber.
If you have the prokit dont worry about a camber kit. Most of the camber kits out there save you tires but **** up your car depending on which kit you get. Just get an alignment, its your toe that is off that causes faster tire wear. For the rear just to do the washer tirck.
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Well I got a camber kit for my car because the tires were wearing out just too fast for my liking. After install the kit and getting an alignment everything was perfect. Until I drove the car. The camber kit came with new (stiffer) bushings. As a result everytime I went over a bump I got this lound banging sound coming from the front. Turns out it was a result of the stiffer bushings not having as much flex as the stock, worn bushings. To compensate for it I had to raise the car a little. I still get that sound depending on the severity of the bump. Was the camber kit worth it? Yes and no. It may have saved my tire life, but the tradeoff in ride quality I'm not sure it was really worth it. Especially given the fact I had to raise the car after I installed the kit.
Modified by sj993 at 9:49 PM 10/4/2004
Modified by sj993 at 9:49 PM 10/4/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95Accordster »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do alighnment kits mess up your car??? i understand how they save your tires but how do they mess with your car?????????????</TD></TR></TABLE>
Im too lazy to search for so since you brought up the Q...Search is your friend!
I was looking to buy a camber kit as well but after reading some on here i figured not too. Some kits bang up against the sheetmetal cuz the drop is too low and it usually bangs a hole into the car after some time. Id rather not have a hole anywhere on my car. Look into it more and you'll see waht im talking about. Also, most of those kits are shitty anyways. Just get a alignment to fix your toe and you'll be fine.
Im too lazy to search for so since you brought up the Q...Search is your friend!
I was looking to buy a camber kit as well but after reading some on here i figured not too. Some kits bang up against the sheetmetal cuz the drop is too low and it usually bangs a hole into the car after some time. Id rather not have a hole anywhere on my car. Look into it more and you'll see waht im talking about. Also, most of those kits are shitty anyways. Just get a alignment to fix your toe and you'll be fine.
with the pro-kit, you never need to bother with a camber kit. I have Eibach prokit and KYBs, and all i did was drive it to the best alignment shop in town, and watched him shim up the 1.5 degree off camber.
my assumption always was if you were lowered less than 1.5 inches you wouldn't really need a camber kit. Anything lower than that needed a camber kit. Though I would recommend getting a camber kit just for the sake of having one when you need it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sj993 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I got a camber kit for my car because the tires were wearing out just too fast for my liking. After install the kit and getting an alignment everything was perfect. Until I drove the car. The camber kit came with new (stiffer) bushings. As a result everytime I went over a bump I got this lound banging sound coming from the front. Turns out it was a result of the stiffer bushings not having as much flex as the stock, worn bushings. To compensate for it I had to raise the car a little. I still get that sound depending on the severity of the bump. Was the camber kit worth it? Yes and no. It may have saved my tire life, but the tradeoff in ride quality I'm not sure it was really worth it. Especially given the fact I had to raise the car after I installed the kit.
Modified by sj993 at 9:49 PM 10/4/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure you weren't hitting your inside of the fender with the upper control arm? From everything you describe it sounds exactly like thats what was happening. It's not a ride quality issue, it's the fact you were to low causing the UCA to hit the inside of the fender. Thats why you heard a loud sound from the front when you go over a bump, and thats why you still hear it if it's a bad bump. The stiffer bushings didn't have anything to do with the problem.
oh, and on my Accord I had tokico blues with pro-kit springs and I didn't run any camber kits. The camber was about -1* to -1.2* camber.I just made sure I got the tire rotated consistantly and often enough that the negative camber didn't wear the tires to bad.
Modified by sj993 at 9:49 PM 10/4/2004</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you sure you weren't hitting your inside of the fender with the upper control arm? From everything you describe it sounds exactly like thats what was happening. It's not a ride quality issue, it's the fact you were to low causing the UCA to hit the inside of the fender. Thats why you heard a loud sound from the front when you go over a bump, and thats why you still hear it if it's a bad bump. The stiffer bushings didn't have anything to do with the problem.
oh, and on my Accord I had tokico blues with pro-kit springs and I didn't run any camber kits. The camber was about -1* to -1.2* camber.I just made sure I got the tire rotated consistantly and often enough that the negative camber didn't wear the tires to bad.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lazyxazianxboi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if anyone could give me a link to the washer trick that would be great</TD></TR></TABLE>
i second this.. can anyone put up some link, pics, or step by step how to do it... thanks in advance..
i second this.. can anyone put up some link, pics, or step by step how to do it... thanks in advance..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stock_LS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i second this.. can anyone put up some link, pics, or step by step how to do it... thanks in advance..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's easy. Here are a couple pictures I found from a quick search in the archives. This should answer your question.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yuo just put washer sunderneath part #17,between it and the chassis.
this ismply spaces the upper arm and top of the trailing arm out.
chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no the washers go under the part to the left of the #17.bolt #25(there are actually two of them)goes through pat #17 and the washers,into the car chassis.
some quick help from Photoshop
:
chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
And if you read a little further down there is a how-to link. Here that is.
http://home.earthlink.net/~civ....html
This should be all you need but here is the link to the thread I got all this from.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=725436
I know it's from the EG+ forum but it shows you how it's done. Some things might be slightly different but not by much.
Just a little FYI. Run a search for "washer trick" in the archives and you'll get 27 results to go through. Have fun and I hope this answered your questions.
i second this.. can anyone put up some link, pics, or step by step how to do it... thanks in advance..
</TD></TR></TABLE>It's easy. Here are a couple pictures I found from a quick search in the archives. This should answer your question.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yuo just put washer sunderneath part #17,between it and the chassis.
this ismply spaces the upper arm and top of the trailing arm out.
chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TeamNextGenChris »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no the washers go under the part to the left of the #17.bolt #25(there are actually two of them)goes through pat #17 and the washers,into the car chassis.
some quick help from Photoshop
:
chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
And if you read a little further down there is a how-to link. Here that is.
http://home.earthlink.net/~civ....html
This should be all you need but here is the link to the thread I got all this from.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=725436
I know it's from the EG+ forum but it shows you how it's done. Some things might be slightly different but not by much.
Just a little FYI. Run a search for "washer trick" in the archives and you'll get 27 results to go through. Have fun and I hope this answered your questions.
Hey yeah for the guy that was having a loud noise when you put the camber kit in....yeah man the other dude was right ...
you have to bang out the inside of your fender ....if you closely look at where the a-arm sits , its sits just a little farther out than with the stock bushings, because thats how the camber kit works, it pushes the a-arm out to compensate for -camber , but the down side is it hits against the inside of the fender. The camber kit should have annotated this down in the instuctions also.
you have to bang out the inside of your fender ....if you closely look at where the a-arm sits , its sits just a little farther out than with the stock bushings, because thats how the camber kit works, it pushes the a-arm out to compensate for -camber , but the down side is it hits against the inside of the fender. The camber kit should have annotated this down in the instuctions also.
yea the washer trick wont work with 6th gens...my camber is off about 2 so its killing my tires, $300 down the drain already in 6 months on 2 tires
so im forced to buy camber kits...for the front its ball joints and for the back its replacement arms
so im forced to buy camber kits...for the front its ball joints and for the back its replacement arms
I am using SPC slide camber plates that replace the balljoint on the upper A-arms up front. IMO these are the best quality kits you can get, no cleareance issues, gets you into perfect camber easily with alignment of course. I tried those inferior ones that move the entire A arm, not so great IMO. I definitely recommend a camber kit for longevity of a lowered vehicle. But if your not to low you you can slide on no more the -1 after that they will get chewed fairly fast.
And how much did your kits run for? Unfortunately i lost all my contacts in the performance shop business so I had to buy mine at regular price for a total of $400 for front and rear


