OK so I was on my way to visit some friends for weekend. While driving back country at a about 60mph in 5th gear. The car shut off and the RPMs just dropped. I costed for awhile and when I came to a stop I tried to turn the car back over but it would not turn over. I could hear the starter trying and it seemed to have enough power. I have checked 1 of the plugs and even though it had been sitting for awhile before I checked it looked very dry and no obvious gas residue on the plug.

Question is there anything obvious that these cars have problems with that I should be checking right now other than the obvious check for spark and fuel??

I dont have a manuel either cause I havent had the car that long.

 

check the distrubiter, mine just went out on me while i was driving last week. Did you feel like you was losing gas and losing rpm while driving?

 

check for spark, gas, make sure fuel pump is preasureizing

 

Seems to me like there is no gas. I tried starting the car with the pedal to the floor. Then checked the plugs and there is no residue or gas oder on the plugs. Im going to get a new filter for the car cause it proolly could use one anyways. But when I loosened those bolts it seemed like a little fuel came out o the lines.

Whats the best way to check for spark?? Just take a plug out and connect it to the plug wire and try starting the car??

How do I check if the pump is pressurized?? Is there a fuse for the fuel pump??

I didnt just lose rpm it just went off with no warning and completely dropped from my crusing at around 3000rpm or so.

 

have some one turn the key to the on poistition jump in the back seat or outside the back off the car and listen to here it come on. If you dont here anything its bad. If you here it try the filter. Do you run the tank low often?

 

Well I think I found the culprit and its very upsetting and worrysome. I took the valve cover off thinking I was going to clean it up and paint it since I have nothing to do right now. Well I got it off and look at the timing belt to see it snapped.

Anyone know if this motor is an interference motor or not? I never thought the timing belt cause I didnt here anything hitting or things like that. though I have never had a belt snap on me like this so i guess I wouldnt know what to here. Please tell me I can just get a new timing belt and not worry about valves and pistons right now.

 

Anybody know if there is online instructions for changin a timing belt on these cars? It will be my 1st time and hopefully we didnt do to much damage to the rest of the engine.

 

coasting at 60mph probably bent some valves; if your new to honda mechanics id let a real mechanice deal with it... imo you have BIG problem on your hands....

EDIT: im no pro either though

 

New to Hondas but not cars. Im going to throw a belt on there and see how things go from there. I feel confident in figureing things out. Worse comes to worse I know a real bright Honda guy who will be able to show me and help me out if things get real bad. Hopefully I dont have to resort to finding a used junkyard motor to put in the car.

But if someone in the area has something really cheap to go in the car I would prolly be interested.

 

Ugh... that really sucks. These engines are interference motors...

Check out this web site for a pretty good write up on doing the belt:

http://www.c-speedracing.com/

Good luck man.

 

Hey thanks, I was searching and found that too, going to def. come in handy since I dont have a manuel for the car.

Do I have to get underneath the car too loosen the alterantor??

While searching I did find this also so Im going to try this and see what I come up with.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the timing belt off, try this before you decide to scrap the engine...

Move the crank AWAY from TDC or BDC. Now all 4 pistons are mid-stroke & you can turn the cam without additional damage.

Turn the cam & measure valve clearances. Any bent valves should have way-too-big clearance, since they won't close all the way.

If they're OK, turn the cam to the #1-TDC marks. Then turn the crank directly to the TDC mark & put on a new belt. DOHC engines with higher compression are more likely to bend valves. Just 'cause it's an interference engine, doesn't guarantee anything. It's still dumb luck whether a piston hits a valve while the camshaft is coasting to a stop.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I honestly don't remember (it's been over a year since I messed with mine), but I think you do. I do know one thing is for sure: Offset box-end wrenches are a MUST!! It's 100 times easier to do when you have the right tools. If you don't know the kind that I'm talking about... here's a pic I found using google:

http://www.nicherich.com/image/27/27o0201-01.jpg

Sears sells them for ~$40 bucks but they are worth every penny and have helped me out a few other times than just with the alternator too. Very good tool to have in the tool box if you don't already have them.

 

cabby89. i'd like to hear how your motor turns out. yes i have heard b series are interference motors too but i've also heard the same about the d series - which from experience are not interference motor. i have another thread on here asking about the b series (actually b18c1) but no one seems to be positive on their answer. hopefully we can all learn from your experience on this topic once and for all. keep us posted! thanks.

 

I snapped my belt a year ago and apparently with vtec engines you will only hit the valves if the belt snaps whilst in vtec, so as long as you were'nt in vtec your valves should be sweet

 

so yours turned out ok after it snapped? non interference then right? (for the most part) now that's what i wanted to hear. someone whos had experience from it. can anyone argue with that? and that would make sense too with the vtec with the high lift and overlaps but that's another story...to be determined.


Modified by sinister357 at 6:30 PM 9/26/2004

 

Will have to wait till next weekend to find out because Im now at school and not near the car. I turned the cams to the appropraite positions for TDC and I looked at the valve springs and tried to see if I could see anything that looked wrong or to big of a gap. I didnt but I also am not sure exactly what to look for or at. Also the motor is a B18A1 which is a Non-Vtec motor but I was at about 3000rpm which I dont think would have been Vtec anways.

Here are the links to pics:
http://students.uww.edu/janczakdd06/1.jpg
http://students.uww.edu/janczakdd06/2.jpg

 

B & D engines are interference but that doesn't guarantee bent valves. I think B engines generally have more interference than Ds. Either way, it's dumb luck whether any valves get hit while the camshaft(s) are coasting to a stop.

Position the crankshaft 90 degrees away from TDC. That way all 4 pistons are at mid-stroke, none are at the top. Now you can spin the camshafts all you want. Spinning the camshafts, go thru the motions of actually checking valve lash with a feeler gauge. Any valves that are bent will have big valve lash; since the bent valve can't close all the way. If they're all good, then maybe you're OK, maybe only a little bent.

If you find any bad valves, you'll have to take off the head. If not, then you can decide whether to take the chance & just put on a new belt.

 

yup they're interference engines. Damn. Pistons most likely hit the valves since you were traveling around 3000RPM. It may not be too bad though. If you didn't hear metal, you MAY be in OK shape. The pistons will be scored but the valves may not be bent. Luckily pistons/valves are pretty cheap for the car. Take off the oil pan and see if you have any metal in it. If none, then you're most likely in decent shape

Sorry to see that Dan. GL! T-belts are very easy to do.

 

brings me to the point of the valve reliefs cuts on pistons. why are they there anyway because none of the valves are open when the pistons are at the top of their travel to be requiring them. unless it's for in case something does happen such as broken belt. but in either case, interference or not, you won't find any metal particals in your oil pan. just let us know how it turns out after you replace the belt.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister357 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brings me to the point of the valve reliefs cuts on pistons. why are they there anyway because none of the valves are open when the pistons are at the top of their travel to be requiring them. unless it's for in case something does happen such as broken belt. but in either case, interference or not, you won't find any metal particals in your oil pan. just let us know how it turns out after you replace the belt.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Right, that's just on the compression/combustion stroke. Now lets look at the exahust stroke. All the exhaust gases are pushed out of the compression chamber with the exhaust valves closed???? Right.

AND yeah you will. If those vavles hit the pistons bad enough, you'll have huge gapping holes in the tops of the pistons. You CERTAINLY will find metal shards in the oil pan.
It all depends on how many times they hit.

 

on the exhaust stroke (piston going up), the exhaust valves are at or near it's completion cycle (nearly if not completely close) when the pistons are at the top of it's travel, getting the intake valves ready to be opened (they are never opened at the same time) for the intake cycle as soon as the piston comes down.

 

Well Ill be hopefully working on it Firday and getting it down Saturday. Hopefully I didnt do damage otherwise prolly get a rebuilt head or a used one. Im seriously screwd if I actually busted pistons but I think I prolly didnt cause I would have heard something more.

GOing to give it my best on working on it but not really up to it, weekend has already started out horrible

 

so how did it turn out??? just curious.

 

i think you'll be fine. just line up the cam gears and the crank pulley, put the belt on, make sure it's still aligned, then put the valve cover on. i think you'll be fine the only annoying part is taking off the covers.

 

So far might have to take it in. I went to try and get the crank pully off but couldnt get it to budge. Even with 120psi. Also couldnt find a good way to hold the crank from spinning so we could try and use a 5ft bar. Buddy told me to jam a screwdriver to lock the flywheel up but couldnt figure out what hole he was talking about to get the screw driver into.

Right now looking around and a shop wants $530 to do it so were looking around for others or maybe other ideas on how to get around the problem. I mean **** for $500 I bet I could find the same motor with less miles that I could swap in during a hard weekend.