I had to re-do my timing, I am having a beach of a time getting the belt on with no slack, I have done the search and I have a couple of write-ups on my note pad but they all seem to say "then you just put it on the cam gear", I wish it was that easy. I had no problem before but I think it skipped a couple of teeth after a little while, so that is where I am at, running no where near drivable and backfiring like crazy, I just need a couple of tips on timing belt installation, thanks in advance fellas

 

Search under the username ''poison'' he did a great timing bely write up..

Your just overlooking it

goodluck

 

okay i just did this not to long ago so its still pretty fresh in my head so i will do my best to give u a few pointers. first get the motor at TDC on Cyl #1 to acheive this i found the easiest way was to take out the plug and get a piece of wooden dowl and put in down the cylinder and watch it come all the way to the top as the valves come to the top. then once you do that loosen the t-belt tensioner.then pull the belt off the cam gear. then match the the two dashes on the cam gear evenly with the head of the motor by turning the cam gear by its self at the bolt. put the t-belt back on then turn the motor over at the crank counter clockwise with a 19mm socket i believe it was till the slack in the belt is gone and tighten the t-belt tensioner. and your pretty much done. good luck

 

woha woha, there are marks on the crank gear so you dont have to stick anything in the combustion chamber.

 

so you're saying that even if there is slack it will disipate after manually turning it over a few times? even if the slack is not on the side of the water pump, but the other side?

 

Yes there will be some slack in the belt.
1.Position the cam gears first by lining up the side ways marks (left right, 3 oclock , 9 oclock) and the up arrows pointing up until the side marks are even with the marks on the rear timing cover.
2.turn the timing gear (bottom of engine) till the only mark on one of the teeth lines up with mark on block (this is TDC)
3. put the timing belt on the cam gears first making sure that the teeth line up good.
4.Run the belt over the water pump next thru the tensioner (making sure its loose at this point) and finally over the timing crank gear.
5. torque down cam gears, crank gear and last tensioner (in my experience the3 tensioner automatically tensions itself by just tightening the bolt)

You will prob have slack on the left and right side of the timing belt and it'll be really tight at the top above cam gears. this will fix itself when you start the engine, or if it bothers you take grab at both side of timing belt and pull up and down till there is even pressure thruout the timing belt. I hop this helps, like I said this is how I do my timing belts other people may disagree but I've never had any problems. Oh and if your doing the timng belt don't be cheap. Buy new water pump, cam seals, and crank seal. doesn't hurt to replace your tensioner either. AND ALL WITH OEM HONDA PARTS!!!!!

 

Make sure you put the belt on the crank first then the cams, it's a totally beiatch to get it over the crank last, and then just quater turn the belt tensioner and it will tighten up for you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mongoliandonuts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you put the belt on the crank first then the cams, it's a totally beiatch to get it over the crank last, and then just quater turn the belt tensioner and it will tighten up for you.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I wouldn't say it's totally a biatch just get one of your buddies to hold the belt down on the cam gears while you thread the rest of it thru the maze.

 

the water pump side is not what I am concerned about though, I am having trouble getting the right tension on the side without the tensioner, If it is too loose it will make the timing off a couple of teeth or the belt will jump. I am doing the cam gear last and leaving the bottom timing cover on with the crank pulley on so it is easy for to monitor tdc from above. I don't get how the slack on the non-tensioner side will go away without the timing being off?

 

What I do, is I just move a belt over 1 or 2 gears from the specs which ever way I need it go (don't remember). Turn the crack with a wrench until I get good enough tension on the belt, then tighten the timing belt tensioner, and turn the motor by hand until the marks line up. If they don't line up I do it again. It might take a couple of tries.

 

sounds like a plan, not a bad idea, I'll have to give that a try.