Buddy Club Racing Spec Dampers...
...anyone using them?
...too rough for the street?
...comparisons to B6s?
My last mod if I decide to 'finish the car.' I have been debating suspension mods for a while.
Thanks.
[Modified by Jon7, 8:15 PM 12/11/2001]
[Modified by Jon7, 8:15 PM 12/11/2001]
...too rough for the street?
...comparisons to B6s?
My last mod if I decide to 'finish the car.' I have been debating suspension mods for a while.
Thanks.
[Modified by Jon7, 8:15 PM 12/11/2001]
[Modified by Jon7, 8:15 PM 12/11/2001]
Just wanted to add that A&J also stated the B6's were 50% track, 50% street so you have a comparison of how stiff the BC RS's are compared to the Zeal B6's. HTH
Anybody know the buddy club rates.. in lbs/ft?
According to Ben @ AJR's previous post, the stock rates are 12k/8k, which is roughly 672/448ft/lbs (same as Zeal stock rates).
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=95334
Dunno the deal with the Buddy Clubs, but my personal experience with Zeal Function S (same 12k/8k spring rates) is that they are fine for the street.
[Modified by kengs, 9:44 PM 12/11/2001]
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Buddyclub offers 2 types of damper kit i.e. Racing Spec Damper and P.1 Damper.
P.1 Damper is mainly made for RACE USE ONLY and Racing Spec were developed for street.
IMO, ZEAL's B6/S6 are more to the softer side so compare for hard driving Buddyclub will be better. The ride of the Buddyclub is not TOO much stiffer over the B6/S6 since it has a 46mm piston which offers better absorbing compare to Zeals 42mm piston. Please check out http://www.aj-racing.com to find out more details about these dampers.
Buddyclubs are pretty new to North America but it was well known to street racers in Vancouver B.C. which the earlier model were not streetable at all. I will highly suggest at this point.
If you have any questions please IM or send me email and I will have all the answers for you
P.1 Damper is mainly made for RACE USE ONLY and Racing Spec were developed for street.
IMO, ZEAL's B6/S6 are more to the softer side so compare for hard driving Buddyclub will be better. The ride of the Buddyclub is not TOO much stiffer over the B6/S6 since it has a 46mm piston which offers better absorbing compare to Zeals 42mm piston. Please check out http://www.aj-racing.com to find out more details about these dampers.
Buddyclubs are pretty new to North America but it was well known to street racers in Vancouver B.C. which the earlier model were not streetable at all. I will highly suggest at this point.
If you have any questions please IM or send me email and I will have all the answers for you
Ok.. maybe a stupid question, but why does Zeal/Buddy Club sell racing kits with the lower spring rate in te rear, when most of the racers use a higher spring rate in the rear? One way should be prefered over the other.. I mean I would think this difference would be enough to change the whole handling of the car.. so which is better for track?? Higher rear? or Higher Front? Just a little confused about this.
Jon, stay Stock for your first few trips to the track, a mod'd car is not necessarily a faster car. I wish I had taken my car out with the stock susp'n for a few sessions.
I have a question for everyone using these JDM set ups. I will prob get bashed but here goes.
What do you guys do after a year of hard driving, and the shocks need to be rebuilt?
I mean with koni, bilstein, they can be sent out and revlaved for less than $65 a corner. Is there a place that will do these for the JDM susp'n? Or do you pretty much have to buy all new stuff? I am not bashng JDM products, I have had them, and still have a few on my car now. Thanks
Bryan
I have a question for everyone using these JDM set ups. I will prob get bashed but here goes.
What do you guys do after a year of hard driving, and the shocks need to be rebuilt?
I mean with koni, bilstein, they can be sent out and revlaved for less than $65 a corner. Is there a place that will do these for the JDM susp'n? Or do you pretty much have to buy all new stuff? I am not bashng JDM products, I have had them, and still have a few on my car now. Thanks
Bryan
Ok.. maybe a stupid question, but why does Zeal/Buddy Club sell racing kits with the lower spring rate in te rear, when most of the racers use a higher spring rate in the rear? One way should be prefered over the other.. I mean I would think this difference would be enough to change the whole handling of the car.. so which is better for track?? Higher rear? or Higher Front? Just a little confused about this.
Bryan
A rough translation of the Buddy Club Race Specs~
-complete kit with upper pillowmount and various spring rates as well as specific wrench for adjustments
-adjustable bracket (stroke)
-even without help from the helper springs with the adjsutable bracket, desirable low position can be obtain.
-shell case is surfaced-treated with a black powder coating
-"ram strut type"
-since the response from the tire and the body will be transferred to the strut, strut needed to be very strong
-racing spec dampers ultilizes "RAM" type in their struts to accomplish the require strength
-chromoly steel made dampers are coated with chrome coating @ 20-30 micron , -20 degree cold-treated to ensure the best quality
-15way dampering adjustment
-click adjustment type
-adjust from the top of the damper
-the damper can be adjusted to the "stiffest setting" equilalent +4kg/mm up to the springs or the "softest setting" -4kg/mm down from the origainal spring rate intotal 8kg/mm range.
-single shell case
-2 types-double wishbone -46mm piston
-Mcpherson type -36mm piston
-because of the single case, heat resistance and cooling is best
-material-good wear resistance and precise chromoly steel
-friction is minium
-coating colour black
-increasing handling response
-for Mcpherson strut type camber adjusted from the front struts
-pillowball-long lasting
-a brand in japan is well known
-best quality
-spring seat, perches and pillowmounts are made by aluminum in anodized red
-each turn on the perch = 2mm drop in ride height
I just have them translated but I think you have to work on these POOR JAPANESE ENGLISH.
-complete kit with upper pillowmount and various spring rates as well as specific wrench for adjustments
-adjustable bracket (stroke)
-even without help from the helper springs with the adjsutable bracket, desirable low position can be obtain.
-shell case is surfaced-treated with a black powder coating
-"ram strut type"
-since the response from the tire and the body will be transferred to the strut, strut needed to be very strong
-racing spec dampers ultilizes "RAM" type in their struts to accomplish the require strength
-chromoly steel made dampers are coated with chrome coating @ 20-30 micron , -20 degree cold-treated to ensure the best quality
-15way dampering adjustment
-click adjustment type
-adjust from the top of the damper
-the damper can be adjusted to the "stiffest setting" equilalent +4kg/mm up to the springs or the "softest setting" -4kg/mm down from the origainal spring rate intotal 8kg/mm range.
-single shell case
-2 types-double wishbone -46mm piston
-Mcpherson type -36mm piston
-because of the single case, heat resistance and cooling is best
-material-good wear resistance and precise chromoly steel
-friction is minium
-coating colour black
-increasing handling response
-for Mcpherson strut type camber adjusted from the front struts
-pillowball-long lasting
-a brand in japan is well known
-best quality
-spring seat, perches and pillowmounts are made by aluminum in anodized red
-each turn on the perch = 2mm drop in ride height
I just have them translated but I think you have to work on these POOR JAPANESE ENGLISH.
I have a question for everyone using these JDM set ups. I will prob get bashed but here goes.
What do you guys do after a year of hard driving, and the shocks need to be rebuilt?
I mean with koni, bilstein, they can be sent out and revlaved for less than $65 a corner. Is there a place that will do these for the JDM susp'n? Or do you pretty much have to buy all new stuff? I am not bashng JDM products, I have had them, and still have a few on my car now. Thanks
Bryan
What do you guys do after a year of hard driving, and the shocks need to be rebuilt?
I mean with koni, bilstein, they can be sent out and revlaved for less than $65 a corner. Is there a place that will do these for the JDM susp'n? Or do you pretty much have to buy all new stuff? I am not bashng JDM products, I have had them, and still have a few on my car now. Thanks
Bryan
When they need to be rebuilt, you can have Endless USA send them back to Japan, or in my case, I will just carry them there myself. With TEIN u can send them to TEIN USA in SoCal to be rebuilt, so I have heard...
On the flip side, how streetable would a sleeved coilover running spring rates over 500 ft/lbs be? And what about ride quality?
Ok.. maybe a stupid question, but why does Zeal/Buddy Club sell racing kits with the lower spring rate in te rear, when most of the racers use a higher spring rate in the rear? One way should be prefered over the other.. I mean I would think this difference would be enough to change the whole handling of the car.. so which is better for track?? Higher rear? or Higher Front? Just a little confused about this.
All of the JDM coilovers to my knowledge run stiffer rates in the front. For roadracing I think they use different compounds and sizes for F/R tires, and different alignment settings. I'm sure Ben @ AJR could explain this in more detail as he actually roadraces.
With the stiffer rates in the rear, and the forward weight bias on FF cars, I would think the ride on the street would be terrible.
No flames here. I have had my Zeals for almost a whole year, no track events, just a lot of street driving (26K on my Zeals), thru some of the worst streets in Atlanta (west side). They have held up fine.
When they need to be rebuilt, you can have Endless USA send them back to Japan, or in my case, I will just carry them there myself. With TEIN u can send them to TEIN USA in SoCal to be rebuilt, so I have heard...
On the flip side, how streetable would a sleeved coilover running spring rates over 500 ft/lbs be? And what about ride quality?
When they need to be rebuilt, you can have Endless USA send them back to Japan, or in my case, I will just carry them there myself. With TEIN u can send them to TEIN USA in SoCal to be rebuilt, so I have heard...
On the flip side, how streetable would a sleeved coilover running spring rates over 500 ft/lbs be? And what about ride quality?
I would hate to have to send my shocks to Japan and have to wait "X" amount of months to get them back. I know how long it takes to get parts when they are ordered, if not in stock, so I can only imagine. THanks for the reply.
If I had it to do all over again, I would get a nice set of 16inch light weight wheels( to fill the fender gap if that is what people want more than performance), and good set of tires, and keep the stock susp'n.
Bryan
Ok.. maybe a stupid question, but why does Zeal/Buddy Club sell racing kits with the lower spring rate in te rear, when most of the racers use a higher spring rate in the rear?
Dunno the deal with the Buddy Clubs, but my personal experience with Zeal Function S (same 12k/8k spring rates) is that they are fine for the street.
Thanks again! Yeah, I like as stiff or stiffer rear to get the car to rotate... Personal preference to run same pressures all around...
IMO, the Koni's piston is way too small and absorbing power is not as good compare to any 42mm & up pistons.
Bryan



