Okay, here's the deal. Next year I will be running a full autocross schedule, and probably make the trip to the track at least 2x per month. So, what I've been looking for is a brake pad that will be good for autocross, yet stand up to anything on the track. From what I've heard, this is simply not possible, as anything less than a track pad is going to get destroyed under heavy track driving, and track pads need heat to work so they're no good for auto-x.

Soooo...I'm thinking about having two sets of pads, something like the Panther Plus for the track and some compromise pad for auto-x (R4S or 913 maybe?). How hard is it to change between different sets of brake pads? Would it be easier to just run the same pad in the rears all of the time and just swap the fronts (I've heard of people using race pads in the back all of the time)? Is this feasible, or is changing my pads all of the time just going to be too much of a pain in the ***?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

-jack the front up
-remove wheels
-use 14mm to remove the lower caliper bolt
-swing caliper up
-install new pads
-swing caliper back down (push piston back into caliper if needed)
-install 14mm
-install wheel
-test pedal
-drive

Will

 

Right on!!! easy as that.


[Modified by tjtruong, 8:39 PM 12/11/2001]

 

Very simple.

About a half hour worth of work. And thats if you're lazy like me

 

Does this work for the rear pads too? I heard it was more difficult to change the rear pads.

 

Rear
-jack car up
-remove wheels
-remove 2-10mm bolts holding shield on
-remove 2-14mm (or 12mm) bolts holding caliper on
-remove cotter-pin for the parking brake cable
-remove metal "C" clip that holds the parking brake cable
-remove caliper
-replace pads
-using a big screwdriver/needle nose pliers... twist the piston (clockwise) back into the caliper
-replace caliper
-install 2-14mm bolts
-install "C" clip and cotter-pin
-install the shield and the 2-10mm bolts
-replace wheel
-test pedal
-drive

Will

[sp]


[Modified by Willard, 3:52 PM 12/11/2001]

 

hrm, the rears weren't that involved for me:

just like the fronts, except the piston cannot be pushed in. It has to be "screwed" in w/ a cube shaped t00l.

-y

 

You don't have to remove the C-clip or parking brake cable on the rear.. just remove the one 10mm bolt that holds the brake line tight, and then it will allow the caliper to come right off.

 

Suggestion so that you can find out exactly how hard it is: Try it.

Another suggestion: Do it with someone who's done it before so they can show you how. They don't need to have done it on the ITR; it's basically the same on all cars.

 

You need to use copious amounts of anti-seize too.....

 

Anti-seize or anti-squeel? I've never used anti-seize but go through a lot of anti-squeel. But with the HP+ pads nothing seemed to do the trick, they simply squeeled away..

Regards,

 

I think the anti-seize are to make it easier to take the bolts off.

 

How hard would it be to change the rotors on an integra?