Warping Rotors
I believe my rotors are warped.......... they were brand new a little more than month ago
what are the different causes of warping? I know heat is the main cause but are there other ways? Is this a problem I should just get used to having with a track car?
what are the different causes of warping? I know heat is the main cause but are there other ways? Is this a problem I should just get used to having with a track car?
i know ducting always helps
I think this is where my problems lie, my lugnuts keep backing off, no matter what they are torqued to, and well not having a torque wrench I have put them on so tight I had to jump on the wrench to get them off
this may have caused my problem
proper torque of the lugs...
this may have caused my problem
i I had to jump on the wrench to get them off
this may have caused my problem
this may have caused my problem
Do not park with e-brake, and roll car forward (or back) every couple minutes to expose the part of the caliper that was under the brake pads to promote even cooling.
I'd say that manually tightening your lug nuts is, like, a big no-no!!! Not sure that it's your only problem but it can't help. You should go and buy a _very_ cheap rod-type of torque wrench. They cost around $20 (or less) if memory serves, and they will not go out of calibration. That's the type of torque wrench that a lot people concerned about accuracy actually use. Sometimes, the most expensive tool is not always the best, eh? And actually, I believe the guy at Coletti told me that was what he uses whenever he needs to torque anything to some degree of accuracy.
That and ducting (my personal winter project) will hopefully greatly help. At my last outing on the jefferson, I warped my brand-spanking new front Brembos...
That and ducting (my personal winter project) will hopefully greatly help. At my last outing on the jefferson, I warped my brand-spanking new front Brembos...
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I have warping only on one rotor. The front left. My previous OEM rotor had that same problem. My rears are fine and the ebrake has done nothing to them. Should I resurface that rotor?
Proper warm up of the brakes are important too. "Rotors need to be gradually elevated to “race” temperatures before any severe use. A “nibble”, or slight vibration, normally indicates rotors that were heated too quickly. After initial “Seasoning”, when running your car at open track events or serious canyon carving, you should use the first lap of a session (or first couple miles of open road), to warm the brakes...." http://www.baer.com/bedding_street/
proper cool down!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
proper torque of the lugs...
proper torque of the lugs...
Yeah, and make sure to use the cool-down lap to cool off your brakes. I usually try to not touch the brakes that last lap so that the moving air will help cool them before I stop in the pits.
Morgan: i I had to jump on the wrench to get them off
this may have caused my problem.
Chris: Most likely. Also to eloborate on the proper cool down..
Do not park with e-brake, and roll car forward (or back) every couple minutes to expose the part of the caliper that was under the brake pads to promote even cooling.
this may have caused my problem.
Chris: Most likely. Also to eloborate on the proper cool down..
Do not park with e-brake, and roll car forward (or back) every couple minutes to expose the part of the caliper that was under the brake pads to promote even cooling.

You shouldn't have to roll the car IF the cooldown lap was used properly, i.e. NO brakes.
I've never seen anyone at BMWCCA or PCA schools need to do that.
Proper warm up of the brakes are important too. "Rotors need to be gradually elevated to “race” temperatures before any severe use. A “nibble”, or slight vibration, normally indicates rotors that were heated too quickly. After initial “Seasoning”, when running your car at open track events or serious canyon carving, you should use the first lap of a session (or first couple miles of open road), to warm the brakes...." http://www.baer.com/bedding_street/
proper cool down!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
proper torque of the lugs...
proper cool down!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
proper torque of the lugs...
Ways to properly maintain rotor cool down/heat up:
-No more E-brake after parking; just leave it in gear.
-Drive around after hard sessions of driving (may not be suitable in paddocks at Solo events).
Any further suggestions?
PS: 80 ft-lbs here. I use a cheap $40 Autozone special torque wrench. I'd be interested to see how good/bad the calibration is.
I have cryo-treated rotors before. Although I'm a degreed Materials Scientist, I am at a loss as to why this works. They never mentioned cryogenics as a metal treatment at NC State so I know nothing about it. But for some reason it seems to work. I did this to my rotors on my Eclipse. That car would warp rotors on a trip to the grocery store. I got some Brembos cryo treated by Carbotech over 2 years ago. I even did a track school on them at CMP, a known abuser of brake systems. They are as straight now as the day I put them on.
I have cryo-treated rotors before. Although I'm a degreed Materials Scientist, I am at a loss as to why this works. They never mentioned cryogenics as a metal treatment at NC State so I know nothing about it. But for some reason it seems to work. I did this to my rotors on my Eclipse. That car would warp rotors on a trip to the grocery store. I got some Brembos cryo treated by Carbotech over 2 years ago. I even did a track school on them at CMP, a known abuser of brake systems. They are as straight now as the day I put them on.
I have cryo-treated rotors before. Although I'm a degreed Materials Scientist, I am at a loss as to why this works. They never mentioned cryogenics as a metal treatment at NC State so I know nothing about it. But for some reason it seems to work. I did this to my rotors on my Eclipse. That car would warp rotors on a trip to the grocery store. I got some Brembos cryo treated by Carbotech over 2 years ago. I even did a track school on them at CMP, a known abuser of brake systems. They are as straight now as the day I put them on.
Is cryo treating really worth the money?
Anyone have any first hand experience with its advantages? (I have yet to hear of any disadvantages.)
Few questions on warping...
1) I noticed just recently that when braking it has that feeling of warped rotors, you know where it kinda chug-chugs as you brake hard to a stop. (or is this a symptom of something else?)
2) If this is what's happening, is it obvious to the eye if it's getting warped? Can I tell by just eye-balling it?
3) I've heard that OE Brembo rotors are the best bang for the buck when replacing to be used with stock pads and calipers. Where can I order some from if I end up needing them?
thx!
1) I noticed just recently that when braking it has that feeling of warped rotors, you know where it kinda chug-chugs as you brake hard to a stop. (or is this a symptom of something else?)
2) If this is what's happening, is it obvious to the eye if it's getting warped? Can I tell by just eye-balling it?
3) I've heard that OE Brembo rotors are the best bang for the buck when replacing to be used with stock pads and calipers. Where can I order some from if I end up needing them?
thx!
Order the rotors here. Great service, and everyone here will also recommend them. Great prices too. Mine came the next day, and only cost around $135. http://www.collettimotorsports.com/


