So I’m rather royally pissed at the previous owner for his hack job of under dash wiring he did all for subs. We’ve pulled about 20lbs of wires out and fixed things the correct way. There’s now issues with the tail lights (got pulled over for it) and the instrument cluster doesn’t light up but all the signal warning lights work fine. Basically my brake lights, turn signals and reverse lights work but my tail lights don’t and it’s not the bulbs there’s just no power to the tail light wire. It no longer beeps when the headlights are on and the key is out and door is open like Hondas do. There’s also a gray 2 pin connector under the dash that we cannot figure out and need help with all this if someone has experience or advice my sanity would greatly appreciate it.

Wires connecting to the actual connector are black with white trace and orange

 

What year and model car is this?

 

1995 Honda Accord LX

 

1. First check that the Number 32 Fuse (15A) in the under-hood fuse box is not blown. If the fuse is blown, then there is probably a short in the circuit. If the fuse is okay, then it may be an open in the circuit; an open is an interruption in the flow of current in the circuit.

2. Power from the No. 32 fuse goes through a Red/Grn wire to connect to a 20-P Blue connector (C413) and the Combination Light Switch, and then to a Red/Blk wire that has various splices along the harness to provide power to the dash lights, taillights, and other small lights.

The blue 20-P connector (C413) is located above the left kick panel.

At Connector 413 – a 20P Blue Connector located under the driver’s side dash (with connector connected), with the voltmeter’s black lead touching chassis/body metal ground, use the voltmeter’s red lead to backprobe the Red/Blk wire at Connector 413. There should be ~ 12 volts at the Red/Blk wire with the combination light switch turned on (i.e., parking lights or headlights on). (Red/Blk wire should be a wire with red color insulation and a blk stripe.)

If there is power (+) there, then we can do further testing after you post your results.




You will want to backprobe the wires if the connector is plugged in. Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.





3. The 2P gray connector is C425 connector (optional security system ) to trigger the door locks. The C425 connector is located above the left kick panel. It normally is an unused grey colored connector that is already taped to another harness.

The Blk/Wht wire on the connector pin is for the Lock input and the Orange wire is for the Unlock input. The C425 connector is for the optional Honda security system, it runs to the power door lock control unit and used to trigger the door lock and unlock feature with the security system. The power door control unit has other wiring and switches to still make it function without the security system.


They probably had an aftermarket alarm or remote door locks before.

 

There is no power to the red/blk wire for the dimmer switch but it does have ground, I will have to check the fuse again but last I checked it was not blown

 

The red/blk wire at the dimmer switch is after Connector C413.

Backprobe the Red/Blk wire at terminal no. 20 of Connector C413 with the headlight switch turned to on, to see if power is coming through C413.

 

Problem solved! Thank you, the issue was wrong amp fuse blown when removing sub wiring is my guess

 

Glad you found it. Thanks for reporting back that it was resolved.