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THE CAR WILL CRANK AND SOUNDS GREAT, CAMS ARE STLL TURNING, SEEMS TO HAVE GREAT COMPRESSION, NO FAULT CODES, GETS SPARK AT THE PLUG VERY BRIEFLY WHEN FIRST FIRING, THEN ALMOST IMMEDIATELY GOES AWAY
I KNOW IT SOUNDS LIKE I LOADED UP THE PARTS CANNON ON THIS THING AND FIRED AWAY...HOWEVER I CANNOT FIND ANY CONCRETE INFO REGARDING THIS SPECIFIC PROBLEM ON A 5TH GEN H22A OBD2 CAR (AT LEASET THAT I HAVE FOUND)
I have diagnosed the car to the best of my ability, otherwise I would not ask for help..
The car ran perfect for MANY years. Has always been maintained. It did however, sit for about seven years before I purchased it from the previous owner. He did however do the maintenance needed in order to get it running, as far as he could tell, before selling it to me. I unfortunately had to let it sit for about six or so more months... in that time, the new battery that he put in it somehow went bad... one day i put the jump pack on the battery and had no cranking for some reason... i jumped the starter solenoid and the car fired right off. I drove it like that maybe 5 times over a 2 month period and instead of properly diagnosing it then and fixing it, I think i may have fried something. One day I went to start it by jumping it and it would only crank.... I finally got back to it about a week or so ago and have since jumped the clutch switch and the car will now crank amazingly and almost fires on inatial start up but then just crannk, crank, crank... I have since purchased a new battery and tried to purchase a used ECU off of eBay (got a P5M-L53, mine is a p5M-A02) and also a new distributor(waiting on distributor now, the one that originally came had different color wires, tried it and same thing)as I was almost certain that one of these 2 parts(dizzy or ECU) were probably the cause of the car getting spark initially and then no spark at all. It will of light up the spark tester light/ plug very briefly and then no spark whatsoever.
I have since replaced the
-Ignition control module
- ignition harness
- brand new battery
- distributor cap and rotor
- new genuine Honda main relay
- new spark plugs
- the immobilizer light comes on and goes out just like it should
- the fuel pump is priming, and it has an aftermarket gauge on the rail that is reading fifty five pounds of fuel pressure.
There are several different wire repairs that were done prior to my friend owning the car. This swap was also done quite a while ago and not sure what all original parts they kept from the original a4 engine
I just spoke to the guy that I bought it from last night and he told me that the reason it was non running whenever he bought It was because the crank sensor was broken/hanging by the engine harness when he very first purchased this car non-running. He replaced the sensor and inspected the wiring, and the car ran awesome for years for him.
This is now my only vehicle and any information or any direction anyone is willing to give, I'm all ears. Thank you all and HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!
Anyone know why this wire would be pinned into the chassis harness right here Anyone know why this wire would be pinned into the chassis harness right here?? Anyone know why this wire would be pinned into the chassis harness right here Anyone know why this wire would be pinned into the chassis harness right here
Last edited by Chaseforte7; Jan 4, 2026 at 03:37 AM.
Reason: Added photos
I just spoke to the guy that I bought it from last night and he told me that the reason it was non running whenever he bought It was because the crank sensor was broken/hanging by the engine harness when he very first purchased this car non-running. He replaced the sensor and inspected the wiring, and the car ran awesome for years for him.