II am not a mechanic, but mechanically inclined code 108 code : 420
My 98 accord coupe v6 I have been working on each time it has issues. Thanks to this site I’ve been lucky to find many issues from drivers posted years ago. I received the car after my moms death with only 44,000. Currently 139000 and it’s due for some work. I plan to replace 1. catalytic converter 2. Timing belt 3 water pump . I would appreciate any info regarding parts or tool that I will need that aren’t on the list.

I have purchased these items so far that I will be installing
1. Timeing belt
2. Water pump
3 water pump seal
4. Belt Tensioner
5. hydrolic tenioner
6. Breaker bar
7. Torque wrench
8. Sockets metric and standard
9. Ratchet
10. Pulley tension bar with 19mm and 14mm
11. Map sensor
12. oxygen sensor
13. air filter
14. 2 jack stands
15. Hydralic jack
16 magma flow catalytic converter Ca carb
17. Gaskets for Converter
18. antifreeze
19. Oil and filter
20. Cam Holder tool
what else should I get before heading into this job ?

 

Did you verify the MAP sensor was bad or do further diagnostics? Just because a code is punted doesn't mean its the sensor itself, it could be due to damage to the wiring, corroded pins/connectors or loose/dirty connections.
Faulty MAP readings will affect how the engine runs, an engine that runs out of tune due to multiple issues(lack of tuneup, worn plugs, too tight valve clearances, etc) will also be unable to properly control emissions output. A catalyst can only catalyze if the emissions input are within an expected margin. Once the input is outside parameters, the catalyst cannot perform correctly and will fall below expected threshold, thus a P0420 code may be set. This does not mean the catalyst itself is faulty.

Spark plugs.
Spark plug gapper.
Angled feeler gauges.
Verify valves are properly adjusted.
Verify the EGR feed port is not carbon/sludge fouled.

Without known maintenance history, we(H-T) do not know what has been done to the car.
If it is time for a new TB and WP then by all means replace those. But make sure that the rest of the vehicle is up to snuff first. Plugs are within spec, no oil leaks into spark plug tubes, spark plug wires or coil packs are within spec, verify valves are properly adjusted, fix the MAP sensor issue, replace filters, and reset PCM and go for a drive.

 

 

I was following the Haynes repair guide on replacing timing belt and when I removed the harmonic balancer the key can with it

 

Start by rotating the crankshaft counter-clockwise until it lines up with the timing mark. Only rotate the engine counter-clockwise with the belt installed to ensure proper tensioning by the tensioner but don't make complete revolutions of the crankshaft without the timing belt in place, the j30 engine is an interference engine and the valves will contact the pistons without the belt in place. The cam gears should be lined up with their respective marks as well. To install the belt, the idea is obviously to get it on with all the marks aligned but this can be difficult. I'm not sure what your Haynes manual says as far as the installation process of the belt but there is technically a particular order of what gears/tensioners/pulleys the belt is installed on, there is however a few different ways to accomplish the same goal. I would start at the crankshaft drive gear and work your way around, clockwise, installing the belt on the tensioner pulley last. You can rotate the cam gears and crank, slightly, as needed to get the belt on. It is important to get the tension from your first gear the belt is placed on, to the next, spot on (From crank to the front cam gear). In the past I have intentionally set the front cam gear off by one tooth in the counter-clockwise direction then placed the belt over the cam gear and then turned the cam gear clockwise until it is aligned with it's marks, tensioning the belt. Make sure you don't slip the belt accidentally when installing it, so keep a hand on the belt where needed and keep in mind that alignment of all the marks will be affected slightly by the final tensioning of the belt by the tensioner.

 

a couple teeth is no big deal at all, you can put the belt on and compression test to be sure, before putting it all back together

 

thank you, going to do the work today for the timing belt and serpentine.

thanks for your info. I will give it a try. when I put the bolt in the crank and turned it just turned but the key was not in originally. when I went to put the balancer back the key hole was not in line so when I put the balancer on it lined up and I was able to turn the cam pulleys to the correct position. when I look at the crank gear the mark was off. Now the belts are off ill turn the crank back counter clockwise with key in locked in. if I have any issues ill post. thanks again

 

 

If your belt is off and the crank is TDC, then rotate your cams to TDC and install the belt.

If you provide year, make, model and trim, sometimes people will post FSM pages to support their posts.

Also, if you are at all concerned, rotate the crank 1/4 turn, then adjust the cams then return the crank to tdc, then do the belt.

 

Is there a certain direction the I should turn the the crank it is at 3:00 I need to go clockwise? The the rear and front cam will stay on mark? Also when you say turn the crank half way what is that 180• or half click ? I’m not a mechanic so forgive me I just don’t want to screw the engine up

 

I don't understand, are you moving the cams or the crank, how are they getting off like that ? Did you pull the belt at tdc ? In a worst case scenario you will have to pull the camshafts to ensure there can be no interference when setting the camshafts back on at tdc after moving the crank to tdc. It might be best to call in a mechanic at this point.

 

Turning the crankshaft 1/4 turn moves ALL pistons to the middle of the cylinders... thus, removing all possibility of valves making contact with pistons. This way, you can move the cams as necessary and then bring the crankshaft back to TDC.

 

thank you I’ll try tomorrow morning let you know I appreciated your help

 

 

Started the car today and it started right up then I heard metal so I got out wuick and poured the Honda coolant the noise no longer. I had to start the car to fill the radiator fluid and water pump. The noise was the water spinning with no fluid at the time. I then ran a full scan with no error codes. I hadn’t taken it for a ride yet I’m sure when I do it will be the final test regarding engine damage that could have Occurred from the crankgear being off mark. I love this car I hope to have it for years but money is tight and if it has costly engine repair I will part it out

 

Ok here I am at a new area on the accord I have not been able to work on it till a few months ago I began to work on the vehicle. The crank was not lined up after the timing belt was installed making the car misfire. It was running very rich. Starts right up no problem. I checked the compression while cold I cranked the ignition five times on each cylinder. They are were around 211 psi. They held until I released. I wen in today and realigned the marks on mark. I then put everything back together and took out the spark plugs. I started my 6 revolutions and hadn’t finish but a quarter of my first when I hit a wall and didn’t want to break it. So I stop and put everything away. The belt was snug against Engine on one side the the others side the belt was on the outside rim of the cam pulley. serpentine were all on tight. I just wanted to be sure before I continued. I know the marks were on cue because I painted on the symbols. Everything lined up perfect. But im skeptical now.

I am at a standstill now

Everything on right

 

I reinstalled the belt all on mark. Thanks proceeded to do the revolutions to seat the belt when I get to the compression stage it’s hard to turn. I’m afraid to continue to 2 and 5. I have all the plugs removed. When I hit the compression it blew out my pug wire I put in to see where I was at. When the plug wire popped out I was past the mark. I just want to be sure that I don’t destroy my engine. I know I was at 12 on my crank mark and cam pulleys I checked again after I installed the belt . Is it normal to have that hard to turn at compression. I’m in park would it matter in neutral?

 

Here are photos of where I’m at I am totally lost. I couldn’t continue the revolution on the crank it hit a wall that I didn’t want to break. If you look at my crank you will see the key lines up with TDL but the indent on the rear sprocket is quarter off. Currently on number two piston due to the fact I can’t turn any further. Can someone give me some help good or bad I could use advice ?

Crank key is TDL but rear sprocket is off the piston On compression 5

 

Is this at the TDC for the 6 ? Or exhaust for the the 3 when rotor is facing the 6 and the cams are at TDC and the crank?

 

I fixed the pulleys and crank TDC by taking off the belt turning the crank a quarter turn that put the cylinders halfway up allowing me to turn the cams into TDC. I then turned the crank back to TDC. Reattached the timing belt and harmonic balancer. Put the crank bolt back in and did my revolutions leaving it on mark. No problems. Everything is almost done. I just need to tighten up a few more bolts then police the area for any strays of objects that could have fallen into engine compartment and ruin my hopes. If the engine runs poor I am ready to purchase a Japanese replacement. That is my last option other than fuel injector possible malfunctioning I purchased a diode just Incase.