So I am looking at adding onto my 10 point cage and creating a 25.5. The easiest way for me to get this done right is by removing the roof skin however I have never done this.

Question is: I am guessing I should remove both the front and rear windows. Roof Molding will need to be removed but as far as spot welds, is there an easy way to remove spot welds? Any special tool that would make the job easy? Any advice on getting this done?

 

I looked into this because I'm going to replace mine with carbon.

I read that a spot weld remover is actually NOT what you want to use. I read the easiest way is to just grind off the spot welds. I've seen it done without removing the front or back windows. IDK, I'd probably remove them, knowing me I'd break one.

Let me see if I can dig up the link I was reading.

 

I spent some time today looking at old HT threads and I've read it is better to pull the windows and I have read people doing both with spot weld cutters and grinders.

 

Spot Weld Cutter | SpotWeld Drill | MIG Welders | MIG Welding- Eastwood

2LEM1 you think this not the best way? srs q

 

I looked at that exact one today and read so so reviews so I ordered a nice pro kit earlier today with a none skip pilot from Summit. I am going the spot weld route myself.

 

Oh I have no freaking idea, I'm not a collision tech.

Here's the thread I got that info from. You tell me.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/paint-...-roof-3050773/

 

I read that thread as well and you have two people with different opinions and as far as the thread goes all I see is a roof cutoff with a kid standing in the middle. No real steps to follow and no finished product or anything.

I'm going to be doing this no matter what so I am going to try and detail this from finish to end because I need to get the cage done since I am getting to the ET point that I need a 25.5 and I can either cut the floor out or take the roof off.

 

id say from a sheet metal fabrication stand point whatever is easier to remove the old welds with the least amount of damage to the base metal (in this instance the chassis supporting the roof) is the best way. Personally I'd probably take a die grinder to the spot welds to remove the welds and probably grind the roof skin free of the chassis.

 

This quote sounded like dude knew what he was talking about. More than me anyway.

 

So I did some additional research about grinding off spot welds and although you can do it, it was recommended as a last option. I ordered a nice spot weld drill that has a non skip pilot so the cutter won't fly around. The built in pilot also sucks in as you drill and allows you to only cut the spot weld without you drilling through the under panel.

 

Let me know how this works, and then after, how much you want to come do my civic too.

 

Also in for this, been secretly following the thread lol. I've been wanting to do a carbon roof for years now and I'm glad it's becoming pretty popular. Cheaper for me to do at least!

 

How wood you weld on a carbon fiber roof anyways?

 

You wouldn't, you would use 3M panel epoxy, if I decide to do this I am going with 3M as well.

 

Was looking at a couple other 3m products, one in particular gives you the ability to fix broken tabs by either piecing them together or creating a new one.

 

Any updates? I'm considering replacing my roof with a non-sunroof skin.

 

Yes and no, I can say the tool I listed above works great.. I used it for about 25 spots welds on other areas of my car and that thing still cuts spot welds fast.

There is a pilot on the tip that keeps the bit from jumping around and gets that initial bite before the actual cutter cuts. Now as for pulling the roof I haven't done it, I am having trouble finding a fabricator that will actually work on small items without it taking months at a time. I can only imagine a big job like this and now have decided to wait until I actually run an 8.49 and am required to run a 7.50 cage.

Sorry for no real progress as for actually removing the skin.

 

No problem, I'm a little while away from attempting it myself. I just remember seeing this thread from a few months back!

 

You'd just be cutting the roof and then they'd fab up the cage, and you'd take the car back, right? Are you putting the skin back on, yourself? Or adding a carbon roof like 2flyLEM1?

 

So this is now happening, just removed the Front and Rear windows.

 

So far so good, it has taken about 3 hours so far to get these drilled. I have about 60% of them drilled out and have also removed the headliner. Once I finish drilling all the spot welds which by the way has not broken through but only has cut of the spot weld. I see that the skin of the roof has seam sealer attaching the support beams to the skin. What I am thinking I have to do is use something like a guitar string to cut through the seam sealer.

Just thought I would give an update of the progress so far.

 

Things I have learned thus far:

1: Some people say you do not need to remove front and rear window. That would be false, in order to drill the spot welds out you need to remove front and rear because both of those windows sit on top of the spot welds as far as an EK goes
2: I've read that some people say to use a grinder to grind through spots welds, I think that would make a lot more of a mess which would probably mean you grind through both layers. Also it would be a bit tough to angle a grinder in between the drip rails.

 

Are you planning on saving the roof skin?

Also are you bracing the body before removing the roof? I'm assuming the body will sag in on itself without the skin there to support it.

 

to separate the skin from the body you should you use on of these. its called seam buster. as for the seam sealer, if you are not planning on reusing the skin, we use torches at work and heat up the area where the sealer is at. it should pop right off

 

Yes I am planning on saving the roof skin which is why I am taking my time, when you pull the roof skin off there are pillars that attach from end to end.

That looks perfect, from what I can tell the drip rails on each side have the seam sealer that this would work perfect for.