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K&N Filter is the way to go (can I say we stock the compacts here and Vports)...That manifold setup is probably the easiest to make an intake for as you can route it under or above the frame rail. IMO, LightningTegs example is ideal. I'd suggest NOT buying a cheap air filter. Cheap being a "spectrum" parts house $15 special when you can get a good flowing, cleanable K&N for under $35 that typically won't choke , fall apart, or implode.
Make sure you route your dumptube away from that compressor inlet as well.
K&N Filter is the way to go (can I say we stock the compacts here and Vports)...That manifold setup is probably the easiest to make an intake for as you can route it under or above the frame rail. IMO, LightningTegs example is ideal. I'd suggest NOT buying a cheap air filter. Cheap being a "spectrum" parts house $15 special when you can get a good flowing, cleanable K&N for under $35 that typically won't choke , fall apart, or implode.
Make sure you route your dumptube away from that compressor inlet as well.
i agree. ive had a cheap filter come apart before when i was wide open throttle at 7-8k rpm with my old gsr lol. fortunately, the piece that came off the filter was large enough to get stopped by the throttle blade. not gonna let that happen to my turbo
will definitely have my welder route it on the exhaust side. gotta keep IATs down.
Do yall sell greddy to turbosmart (2bolt to vband) adapters?
Do yall sell greddy to turbosmart (2bolt to vband) adapters?
35mm 2 bolt to a 50mm Raceport flange, I could make one if need be whenever... You can't really see your flange up close, but if it is a typical aftermarket flange (non cast/Greddy flange) with a tube type neck beneath the flange then I would just cut it off, open the hole, and weld direct to the pipe.
35mm 2 bolt to a 50mm Raceport flange, I could make one if need be whenever... You can't really see your flange up close, but if it is a typical aftermarket flange (non cast/Greddy flange) with a tube type neck beneath the flange then I would just cut it off, open the hole, and weld direct to the pipe.
Vee port is smaller i believe. TS sells them for $36-ish, id just rather support small biz. I would do that but i dont know if my welder has a TIG and/or if it would be more expensive than just buying the adapter. IDK
Vee port is smaller i believe. TS sells them for $36-ish, id just rather support small biz. I would do that but i dont know if my welder has a TIG and/or if it would be more expensive than just buying the adapter. IDK
for you guys that have the IAT sensor mounted on aluminum charge piping, how did you go about it? did you drill and thread the piping or weld on an aluminum nut or bung? i cant seem to find a m12x1.5 aluminum bung or nut ANYWHERE. i wouldn't mind tapping the charge piping directly it just doesn't seem like enough material to make good threads and have a good seal. Any experience/thoughts?
for you guys that have the IAT sensor mounted on aluminum charge piping, how did you go about it? did you drill and thread the piping or weld on an aluminum nut or bung? i cant seem to find a m12x1.5 aluminum bung or nut ANYWHERE. i wouldn't mind tapping the charge piping directly it just doesn't seem like enough material to make go threads and have a good seal. Any experience/thoughts
You definitely will not get enough meat through the pipe wall. You'll have to make or buy a weld bung
Kagero Time Attack DC2- GReddy Type R BOV
Just an FYI - The Greddy 2-bolt flange that came with their BOVs were over 38mms at least. Not like the Vibrant ones that came into the market later on in 2007+ (ownership photo showing GReddy Type R using OEM GReddy Flange)
Originally Posted by Autoworks
35mm 2 bolt to a 50mm Raceport flange, I could make one if need be whenever... You can't really see your flange up close, but if it is a typical aftermarket flange (non cast/Greddy flange) with a tube type neck beneath the flange then I would just cut it off, open the hole, and weld direct to the pipe.
Kagero Time Attack DC2- GReddy Type R BOV
Just an FYI - The Greddy 2-bolt flange that came with their BOVs were over 38mms at least. Not like the Vibrant ones that came into the market later on in 2007+ (ownership photo showing GReddy Type R using OEM GReddy Flange)
Right, I know. A random "why do I still have these" visual. Orig. Cast Greddy, Cast Greddy Replica, Vibrant Greddy, and a 50mm Tial flange...Honda-Tech Jeopardy. I doubt anyone still uses the Orig. Greddy style. I've also had some 2 piece Greddy flanges that are pretty common, that actually had a smaller port than the Vibrant flange (it would fit the Blitz BOV as well).
Originally Posted by 2kdrift
had go auto weld in a bung, the oem style with 2 bolt holes.....not the crv one
Yes sir, just convert to an OBD1 2 bolt IAT sensor and weld the flange in for simplicity. You can also get the thread in style for IAT/MAP/coolant sensors.
greg, you the mf'n man. thank you, ive been trying to find one for a while now. btw, the oil kit i bought from you guys is top notch, very happy with it.
Small update. I got a K&N on the turbo now, i feel a lot more at ease with all the leaves on the road right now, even though i only drive the car 2 or 3 miles per week for diagnostic purposes etc. My Turbosmart Vee Port came in the mail so I had the bov flange welded on as well as the P2R IAT bung (thanks greg.) Other than that me and my friend just cleaned up some wiring, removed the a/c subharness, and siliconed the valve cover (it still leaks of course.) I should be taking it to my exhaust guy next week to have the downpipe and dumptube fixed. Aside from the welding, i just have to change the oil, plugs, and an axle seal and its off to the dyno. I still havent given up hope on solving my misfire issue before taking it to RLZ, ive run out of ideas though. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. Also, has anyone used Xenocrons $30 brass MBC before?
Is it actually throwing a CEL for the misfire or just running weird?
Just running weird. It's like a hiccup/misfire but it's random. It's not on any particular cylinder. I've swapped or tested every component in the fuel and ignition systems to no avail.
Just running weird. It's like a hiccup/misfire but it's random. It's not on any particular cylinder. I've swapped or tested every component in the fuel and ignition systems to no avail.
Do you still have the stock ecu, injectors, and map sensor in the car right now? What ems are you planning to use when you get it tuned? Do you have a wideband in the car now?
Do you still have the stock ecu, injectors, and map sensor in the car right now? What ems are you planning to use when you get it tuned? Do you have a wideband in the car now?
Yes, stock obd1 p75 ecu, stock injectors, oem map. Crome pro (yes, i am poor) yes, i do have an aem wideband mostly installed, just dont have an extra bung for the sensor yet (nxt week ill have one welded on.) My misfire issue has been present since an hour after i completed the swap. I was burping the cooling system, engine was running fine, then out of nowhere it starting randomly missing. I have swapped out the following in search of a solution:
Fuel system:
Pump, filter, injectors, regulator, main relay
Ignition:
new OEM cap, new OEM rotor, multiple sets of NGK plugs, complete distributor (napa), oem coil, aftermarket coil, icm, multiple sets of plug wires
Other:
OEM denso 02 sensor, 2 engine harnesses (the one currently on the car is an uncut obd2 integra harness), muliple map sensors, swapped thermal IM gasket for OEM, tested fuel pressure, tested voltage at every sensor, tested voltage at distributor, check chassis/engine grounds,
Mechanical:
compression tested engine (185psi all 4), adjusted valve lash multiple times, verified cam/crank timing, pulled head to check for any cracks or bent valves.... heres where it got a little weird... when i pulled the head it looked mint, as it should , it has 50k miles. I took it to my machine shop, they call me and say they found a bent valve. Im overjoyed because i think "i finally figured it out." I go to the acura dealer and buy a new oem intake valve and bring it to them to install. i ask "is the guide/retainer/spring/etc fine, or should we replace anything else too?" Machine shop guy says, no everything else is good. I say ok. I pick up the head they show me the valve and its bent at the top. Im like wtf, never seen that before. I also think, how could it not damage the guide, right? Anyway, i bolt on the head with a new OEM gasket, copper spray and ARP head studs torqued to 85ish. I fire it up, and guess what, it still misfires.
There are other things i have tested/swapped as well but i just cant remember as it has been many months and many parts. Thanks for reading, i know thats alot of ****.
Wow you went through a lot lol. Is it just at idle or while driving too? Get your wideband installed. It probably just needs to be tuned.
yea man, you arent kidding. ive spent almost $1k chasing down a ****** misfire lol. i work on cars for a living and ive never been stumped like this. the distinct sound of a miss is only present at idle and low rpm. once i bring up the revs, with or without load, it doesnt sound like misfire or like its dropping a cylinder but it stills runs like ****. back before i bolted on the turbo kit when i would do full throttle 7k rpm pulls, it would pull strong but the power delivery felt weird, like a wavelength. aside from it having the turbo kit on it now, before it was 100% stock other than a thermal IM gasket, which i removed and replaced with an oem. idk, you think its fuel/ignition map based? on a stock ecu? ive never seen an all oem honda need a tune just to run normally.
yea man, you arent kidding. ive spent almost $1k chasing down a ****** misfire lol. i work on cars for a living and ive never been stumped like this. the distinct sound of a miss is only present at idle and low rpm. once i bring up the revs, with or without load, it doesnt sound like misfire or like its dropping a cylinder but it stills runs like ****. back before i bolted on the turbo kit when i would do full throttle 7k rpm pulls, it would pull strong but the power delivery felt weird, like a wavelength. aside from it having the turbo kit on it now, before it was 100% stock other than a thermal IM gasket, which i removed and replaced with an oem. idk, you think its fuel/ignition map based? on a stock ecu? ive never seen an all oem honda need a tune just to run normally.
Honestly idk, this is all just shooting in the dark until you hook a laptop up and start data logging with wideband. It should be pretty obvious once you can see what all the sensors are reading when the problem occurs. It does sound strange though, especially with all you’ve been through.
Honestly idk, this is all just shooting in the dark until you hook a laptop up and start data logging with wideband. It should be pretty obvious once you can see what all the sensors are reading when the problem occurs. It does sound strange though, especially with all you’ve been through.
youre right, idk i guess i want to figure it out before taking it my tuner just for my own peace of mind, but at this point im guessing and wasting money lol. will my tuner be able to diagnose any easier with hondata/neptune vs crome? i know crome is basic stuff, but ive heard that hondata is pretty much the same - igntion and fuel tables etc.
re: K20z1ej1's "Hunter" turbo B18B build thread
