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Shot by a guy who saw it at the local Caffeine and Octane car meet. I got mic'd up, and interviewed about the car, and it will be featured on their show in 2018. They got tons of footage of the car, and they even interviewed my son too LOL! This was my son's first ever car meet, and it was a memorable one.
does the factory strut bar have to go on backwards to fit ?
If you want access to the spark plugs, yes. I will change them every 10K miles since it's boosted. Running coppers since they're more frequently changed.
Good eye though.
BTW:
I'll probably get the Downstar shock tower extensions welded/smoothed in at some point early on 2018. There's some underside damage done from the Skunk2 upper a arms crashing into the underside of the shock towers when the previous owner had softer suspension at a lower ride height. If I go that route, then I lose the bar entirely.
I'm still debating this one. Either way some repair/body work will be done at those towers. The suspension I plan on running will likely never allow the arms to hit again, as it will be STIFF and I will not run dumped. Likely one finger gap on 205/50/15.
If you want access to the spark plugs, yes. I will change them every 10K miles since it's boosted. Running coppers since they're more frequently changed.
I'll probably get the Downstar shock tower extensions welded/smoothed in at some point early on 2018. There's some underside damage done from the Skunk2 upper a arms crashing into the underside of the shock towers when the previous owner had softer suspension at a lower ride height. If I go that route, then I lose the bar entirely.
I'm still debating this one. Either way some repair/body work will be done at those towers. The suspension I plan on running will likely never allow the arms to hit again, as it will be STIFF and I will not run dumped. Likely one finger gap on 205/50/15.
I can't imagine why you'd need the tower extensions unless you're running dumped or doing rally racing with a lot of arm travel. Definitely can't hurt though, and if you're doing labor in that area anyway might as well.
Also, por que no 225/45/15? With the torque that thing must be putting out any added rubber would probably benefit you lol. Although in that pull you posted earlier it didn't look like you were struggling for traction.
I can't imagine why you'd need the tower extensions unless you're running dumped or doing rally racing with a lot of arm travel. Definitely can't hurt though, and if you're doing labor in that area anyway might as well.
Yeah man I'm leaning more towards just having a good body man smooth and refinish those areas, and run something stiff. Currently looking at PIC stuff in 672F/782R (12K/14K) so I don't think the arms will ever hit again.
...but it is street driven, and could very well end up smashing some nasty, nasty bridge joint, pothole, etc. I don't want to pay someone to smooth those bumps over only to have them hit again. Hence the consideration of the Downstar shock tower extensions for absolute assurance it'll never hit again. I'm just not a fan of cutting the structure there, and also losing additional bracing via strut brace if I can avoid it.
Also, por que no 225/45/15? With the torque that thing must be putting out any added rubber would probably benefit you lol. Although in that pull you posted earlier it didn't look like you were struggling for traction.
Honestly it came on 205/50/15 and the fitment is stellar. I'll likely just keep the tires, and switch them over to the Spoon SW388s that are actually more narrow. I am not a huge fan of the flush look, honestly. It also risks damaging the fender if it ever hits. It currently has never made contact with the front fenders/arches/liners, and the rear has been professionally rolled completely flat without any issues with the paint - a miracle. The Spoons are old school "tucked" spec at 15x6.5 with +45ET.
Last edited by B18C5-EH2; Sep 19, 2017 at 01:57 PM.
Yeah man I'm leaning more towards just having a good body man smooth and refinish those areas, and run something stiff. Currently looking at PCI stuff in 672F/782R (12K/14K) so I don't think the arms will ever hit again.
...but it is street driven, and could very well end up smashing some nasty, nasty bridge joint, pothole, etc. I don't want to pay someone to smooth those bumps over only to have them hit again. Hence the consideration of the Downstar shock tower extensions for absolute assurance it'll never hit again. I'm just not a fan of cutting the structure there, and also losing additional bracing via strut brace if I can avoid it.
I'm sure if you wanted to you could probably make some mount points, and a custom strut brace. It's not a really complex piece, may be worth looking into.
I can't even see the bumps on the current towers, but I understand what you're saying.
Originally Posted by B18C5-EH2
Honestly it came on 205/50/15 and the fitment is stellar. I'll likely just keep the tires, and switch them over to the Spoon SW388s that are actually more narrow. I am not a huge fan of the flush look, honestly. It also risks damaging the fender if it ever hits. It currently has never made contact with the front fenders/arches/liners, and the rear has been professionally rolled completely flat without any issues with the paint - a miracle. The Spoons are old school "tucked" spec at 15x6.5 with +45ET.
The current fitment looks great, and seems like it's working out pretty well. I understand your appreciation of the properly rolled rear end... I somehow managed to mess up one of mine and it left a bit of a warp on the rear quart panel -.- Sucks because the other 3 fenders are rolled/pulled perfectly.
Did you ever disclose how much this beauty cost you?
I'm sure it's worth every penny but it would be interesting to know the value of one in this kind of rare condition being nearly complete.
This is one of the most complete, well calculated, and non-hacked Civics I've seen in a long time. It's an extreme build with a strong, usable powerband that was actually assembled correctly. Body/interior/bay all immaculate and perfectly well kept.
Whatever the cost, it was worth it. Also somewhat curious where the market is on cars like this though... Any less than $20K and I'd actually be a bit disappointed.
This is one of the most complete, well calculated, and non-hacked Civics I've seen in a long time. It's an extreme build with a strong, usable powerband that was actually assembled correctly. Body/interior/bay all immaculate and perfectly well kept.
Whatever the cost, it was worth it. Also somewhat curious where the market is on cars like this though... Any less than $20K and I'd actually be a bit disappointed.
Agreed fully.
And actually, after thinking about it on the long drive into work, instead of providing what you paid (it's sort of irrelevant), can you provide us what you believe you could get for the car as it stands now (fair market value).
I'll tell you what I paid only because I don't plan on ever selling it. I STOLE it at $10k even. I have it insured for $15k. It will have $2k in paint protection film when I pick it up from the shop. If I had to put a pricetag on it? I'd say not a penny less than $15k before I add the Spoon SW388 wheels, sus, and LSD.
You could not build this for even $20k. Mint, one owner Si chassis. PERFECT color changed paint. PERFECT BODY. I'm picky as ****, and when I say perfect it is 100% flawless. Shaved bay done right. Tucked lines done right, and still serviceable. One off custom tuck harness with every sensor labeled. 11" rotors all around, two piston front Legend GS (NSX) calipers, S2K front seats, matching power door cards, RSX rear seats, HASport mounts, upgraded boost CT SC, K20A2 with perfect no-grinds 6 speed, all legit swap parts, thick radiator, perfect ac, moonroof smooth, MR-2 P/S pump on switch, and FULLY SORTED.
When I say fully sorted I mean absolutely PERFECT streetable driving tune, and full throttle tuned.
Literally only NEEDS two things to be the most well rounded EH I've ever owned:
Better coilovers, and LSD.
I'm going to fix both of those issues no later than February, when I get an annual bonus. PIC coilovers at 12k/14k, and still deciding on transmission.
Yeah man, this car is an extremely well-executed build. The builder is a guy in Tennessee who goes by "Pojo" and he's a Honda master tech. He built this thing literally EXACTLY how I'd have built one had I ventured into another EG build - only I'd have likely gone K20A-R, and no blower. I would not have had the gumption to do a blown K20, nor the custom one-off engine/dash harness he made from using ETMs for the RSX, and Civic, while retaining immobilizer, OBD2 scan port, and/or Hondata K Pro USB code check ability. Had I kept my silver hatch it would have had full interior, K swap, etc. etc. eventually. Pojo added power windows, locks, kept cruise, etc. and I honestly would not have gone that far - I'm glad he did. It's truly an evolved, grown-up version of the Civics I drove in the late 90's and early 00's.
I built the silver EH2 you saw earlier in this thread, and for that time in my life it was perfect. Now I'm 38, have two kids, and wanted to buy something that was built to my own picky tastes, and this checked all the boxes. It has all the comfort stuff, faster than any Honda I've ever owned by a large margin, and has a 100% perfect body in an amazing color. I kept coming across amazing builds, but they'd always have some major pitfalls like no A/C, or stripped back half, or it'd be bright yellow or have a mismatched painted bay in bassboat flake.
I've got some plans for this to put my own personal flare on it, but if I did literally nothing to it other than swap out the coilovers for something stiffer it'd still be perfect. I plan on tossing those Spoon SW388 wheels you see on my old silver hatch, stiffer full coilovers, and likely swap the mirrors out for something else while retaining the power feature they currently still have functional. Mechanical-wise I'll probably do a built transmission with a nice LSD, taller first gear, and maybe a taller 6th gear for highway cruising...maybe NOT on the tall 6th as currently it PULLS through 4th, 5th, and doesn't lose anything shifting into 6th.
I'm trying to get an old card formatted to clear up space to snap some quick interior pics with my decent camera/flash since we're getting stormed on here in GA.
Well done sir! You truly found a gem.
Not sure why Mssr Pojo would sell after putting all that love into such a sweet ride, but it worked out very nicely for you!
Last edited by 94 Civic Si; Feb 25, 2018 at 05:47 PM.
I never thought I'd post on HT again and I'm so glad I decided to click on this thread after so many years of not going on HT. I used to comb through your old threads back in college in 04 and here I am lusting over your current car as much as the VSM hatch you previously had. I'm so jealous.
I never thought I'd post on HT again and I'm so glad I decided to click on this thread after so many years of not going on HT. I used to comb through your old threads back in college in 04 and here I am lusting over your current car as much as the VSM hatch you previously had. I'm so jealous.
Had an inner wall on a section of flex pipe come apart just beyond the header collector. $60.00 later at the finest exhaust fabricator in GA, and it's all good again.
A subframe brace and rear lca's would look great on that
I'm more for the OEM look back there on my own car. Either flat blacking the current muffler, or swapping the muffler out for something quieter (if possible) that's matte black. Trying to be low key for non-Honda people.
You would not believe how many non-Honda peeps flipped their **** as they walked around the hatch from the rear, then saw under the hood last at today at Caffeine and Octane. It's taken a few by surprise on the interstate too.
...and with 12k/14k coilovers I think the current 14mm bar out back will be okay.
Re: I'm back in an EG.
